97' Power Stroke won't start !

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08-24-2014, 10:13 AM

desertdogs

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97' Power Stroke won't start !

This all started a couple of weeks ago and it's been an ongoing nightmare. I had had a small leak for quite some time but didn't mess with it as it was very minor. I developed a huge leak that looked as if it were coming from the fuel filter housing or fuel pressure regulator. I pulled it apart and put a new seal kit in the filter housing, put everything back together and it wouldn't start. I have pretty new batteries so it was spinning well over 200 RPM. Someone told me it was the fuel pump, so I tore it back down and replaced the fuel pump which was somewhat of a nightmare in itself. I got it all back together and it still wouldn't start. I pulled the filter housing out again and pulled the FPR apart (lost the little check ball) I ended up purchasing the check valve (ball) and screen assembly from Ford for $44. and change. I cleaned the FPR thoroughly and reassembled it and put it back in the truck, again it wouldn't start. I pulled the filter assembly off again and found the wiring under and around it was all fried together. I repaired all the wiring and it was getting dark so I was in a hurry. In my haste I forgot to hook up the return lines to the FPR, the two at the front of the engine. I got in and turned the key and it fired right up. I got all excited until I saw the fuel spitting out of there like I flushed a toilet. I hooked the suckers back up and again it wouldn't start. I pulled the whole assembly out again…takes all of 10 minutes now and checked the FPR valve, it looks pretty straight forward. I pulled it apart and checked everything again and it all looks like new. On those front return lines I blow through one of them and the air passes through with no problem, the other though takes a lot of effort to even get a little air through it. I'm stumped, pissed off and tired of working on this thing. What can go bad in the FPR…the spring and the little filter (which I cleaned) are the only parts that aren't new. So in effect I have a new fuel pump, new hoses, new o'rings, new check ball and screen assembly. I need some help bad guys, I hate to keep bugging you but someone has to know what the hell went to crap. I've had this truck for a good 10 years and this is the first time I've had this kind of problem with it. Thanks in advance for any help. Oh yea I was asked if the wait to start light comes on and it does. It's upwards of 100 degrees here every day so temp isn't a problem.
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08-24-2014, 09:11 PM

carguy94

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does it try to start or put out any smoke. have you checked your oil level or tried giving it some either. what about fuel pressure check. have you checked any of those wires with a volt meter and verify that they are receiving or giving proper feed at all times. any idiot lights present and I know you said this but make sure you have fuel and not air. have you checked to see your injectors are firing. sorry for the questions but you need a starting point other wise you might as well get another running engine. so I also noted one thing it will start every time with the return open but not when it hooked up properly. one last thing idiot light probably mean nothing to your case but you never know

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08-24-2014, 10:09 PM

fordpride

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DO NOT USE EITHER !!!!!!!!!
Either and glow plug can make a big mess.

Do you have any smoke coming from the tailpipe ?
If so what color ?

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08-24-2014, 10:31 PM

carguy94

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should not have said the use of either was ok I apologize for saying that as common sense says that a no no. if you use common sense I do not see you blowing up an engine or a gasket as an engine with access diesel can do the same thing their both very poor octane rating if you will so sorry for the comment.

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08-25-2014, 11:58 AM

desertdogs

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Quote:

Originally Posted by carguy94

No it doesn't even so much as fart....no smoke, nothing. Oil is full, changed it about 3 weeks before this crap started. I've checked the fuel pressure at the shrader valve and am getting nothing but a little dribble of fuel out it. I also checked all the wiring, when I checked it first I found a blob of plastic and wiring all melted together. I rewired the whole damn thing and then checked again to make sure I had continuity. I haven't checked to see if the injectors were firing but it started and ran fine with the return lines off. As soon as I put them on I had the same no start situation. No idiot lights come on other than the normal ones when you go to start it. It's turning over fast enough to build up oil pressure....I had the FPR apart again this morning just to see if there was something I missed as far as a clog. Everything is clean but when you try to blow through the return line fittings all you get is a headache. Everything is clean as a whistle (however clean they are) New fuel pump, filter, screen and check ball, redid the wiring harness. Don't worry about the ether comment...never use the crap unless I want to toast a palmetto bug. It seems to me that when you blow through the return line fittings air should go to the return line fitting on the other side of the FPR.. Why that's not opening is beyond me unless I have my head up a dark place.

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08-25-2014, 01:28 PM

carguy94

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any time you have a clogged fuel return usually the engine acts like its out of fuel so the fact you have no smoke makes it look like you have no fuel along with the no pressure. so make sure you do not have any blockages or kinks in the return line it self not the regulator as no fuel return will cause you a headache.

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08-26-2014, 10:09 AM

desertdogs

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Well thanks for all the help guys. I went through everything again last night step by step, cleaned everything again and blew it out with an air hose. I put her back together and filled the filter bowl with fuel and she started right up and seems to be running like a dream again.

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09-05-2014, 10:16 AM

jrods2

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Quote:

Originally Posted by desertdogs

You really should pull the fuel tanks and check for gel inside the pickup filters. Mine was broken & the other had a piece of gel the size of a silver dollar and about 1/4 thick causing it to cover the intake tube hole when fuel started to flow. Most of the fuel problems I've done research on recommend pulling the tanks. it's a big job but worth it.

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09-06-2014, 12:22 PM

desertdogs

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Ok, the fuel tanks are clean, did that about a yr. ago. They had a little sand in them but no paraffin build up or anything of that nature. I live in the desert so never really have a problem with the cold causing problems. The new diesel fuel sucks though.
I had her running great, went in to check the mail and she ran perfectly. Round trip was only about 20 miles, no problems at all. The next day the wife wanted to go shopping, the AC is out of her car so we decided to take the truck which I thought was running great. Took off and everything seemed fine 3.3 miles of crap road to the freeway and then 11 miles to the turn off to town....the truck died right on the off ramp. I opened the hood and the sucker had sprayed fuel onto the air cleaner housing, I couldn't tell where it came from though. The filter canister was full of fuel..new filter, clean fuel, I cranked her over a few times and she refused to start.

It's driving me nuts, a friend came and got me and the wife and back home we went leaving the truck where it stalled. My friend came later and we went to tow it home, I got in it turned the key and she started right up after sitting for around 6 hrs. I drove her home and at one point she started chugging and I thought it was going to stall again but it made it home. I was so disgusted I left it sit a couple days but periodically went out and started it. I started it this morning and checked for leaks finding none...

I checked the pressure at the FPR shrader valve and at an idle it's pushing around 65 lbs. of pressure. I'm lost here guys..I remember reading it's supposed to be around 20 lbs at an idle if I'm not mistaken. I also read about a BB trick but I thought that was to bring the pressure up. Any knowledge someone could share here would be greatly appreciated.....Thanks in advance!

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#10

09-06-2014, 01:55 PM

MOOSE_MACHINE

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Check the fuel pressure at a higher rpm. The return line may be plugged causing to much fuel pressure

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#11

09-06-2014, 03:31 PM

fordpride

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65psi @ idle is perfect

I'd would inspect all the wiring around the fuel bowl first. Diesel will eat them

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#12

09-07-2014, 09:42 AM

desertdogs

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MOOSE_MACHINE

Check the fuel pressure at a higher rpm. The return line may be plugged causing to much fuel pressure

Moose Machine, I went through everything again yesterday. Blew out the return lines using 40lbs. of air pressure. The front tank was so full that fuel actually blew out of filler tube, the rear had less fuel in it but I could hear the fuel gurgling. The truck had been starting before I did all this, after it wouldn't start again. I had pulled the filter housing off again (...repetition sure makes it quick and easy...) inspected all the wiring, I had rewired it just a couple of weeks ago because it was such a mess. Now I'm back to square one...the last time it wouldn't start I cracked the return lines loose and she started right up so I'm thinking it might be an air lock. Is there a better easier way to do this so you don't make such a mess?
I have a neighbor down the road about a mile who's supposed to be a top notch mechanic....he said my "enveloper" was leaking...I've searched everywhere and cannot find what the heck he was talking about. I'm thinking it's possibly the round thing ( I don't know what it's called either ) on top the banjo fitting at the back of the fuel pump. I just know I'm too damn old to keep fighting with this thing and need it back on the road soon. I'm driving a beat up old Camry with close to 300K on it which is scary as heck cause it's ready to fall apart (literally).
This thing has me stumped, it all started with a damn leak and has now turned into a major nightmare. Thanks for all your help in the past and thanks to all that have chimed in on this problem. FTE is the best forum out there by far....

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#13

09-07-2014, 09:47 AM

desertdogs

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Quote:

Originally Posted by fordpride

65psi @ idle is perfect

I'd would inspect all the wiring around the fuel bowl first. Diesel will eat them

Mike, I rewired all that mess about two weeks ago. As you said the diesel at the coating off the wires and it was a total mass of plastic and copper fused together. I double checked all the wiring yesterday and it's in good shape and everything matches up. Thanks though, if diesel fuel eats wiring why in the heck did they run the wiring like that, goofy. One question, regular fuel line hose vs. injection line hose. Is there a difference? I'm sure it's more high pressure but is there any other difference that you know of?

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09-07-2014, 10:10 AM

madpogue

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Quote:

Originally Posted by desertdogs

I have a neighbor down the road about a mile who's supposed to be a top notch mechanic....he said my "enveloper" was leaking...I've searched everywhere and cannot find what the heck he was talking about.

If he's a "top notch" mechanic, he would explain what this "enveloper" is; I've certainly never run across the term in six years on several PSD forums.

Quote:

I'm thinking it's possibly the round thing ( I don't know what it's called either ) on top the banjo fitting at the back of the fuel pump.

This means you have a California truck. That's a fuel pulse dampener that is not present on the 49-state trucks. And yes, another potential leak point.

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#15

09-07-2014, 11:01 AM

desertdogs

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Quote:

Originally Posted by madpogue

If he's a "top notch" mechanic, he would explain what this "enveloper" is; I've certainly never run across the term in six years on several PSD forums.
This means you have a California truck. That's a fuel pulse dampener that is not present on the 49-state trucks. And yes, another potential leak point.

Thanks for the info...this "top notch" mechanic is not the friendliest guy in the world. I had asked several times what the heck he was talking about as I had never heard the term either. He's also one of these "I know everything" type of people but won't share any knowledge unless there's some bucks in it for him. Is that fuel pulse dampener necessary? I suppose the only way to get rid of it would be to replace that entire assembly. I don't doubt that's where my leak is because I've replaced darn near everything else. I imagine that means I need to pull the turbo again too, I don't care what I need to do I just need my truck. Thanks again for the info, I greatly appreciate it. Doug

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