90 F150 351W E4OD mileage unknown

I am in the process of getting a salvage truck on the road. As such I can't really drive the truck around to verify how solid some of the components are until I get it registered which will be post rebuild.

I will be replacing the front core support, radiator, front sheat metal and fenders. Since the front of the engine will be completely accessible does it make sense to replace the water pump and thermostat while it will be so easy to get at? Is there anything else I should consider doing while things are opened up?

The truck is intended to be a utility truck for hauling stuff around, not a daily driver.

 

That depends, if you think you'll have to soon anyway then absolutely. If you think there is a good chance the current pump will last as long as you'll have the truck/engine then no.

 

If the money won't cause you to miss a meal, DO IT. It will never be easier.

 

To me the concern is that water pumps have a way of snowballing. Break a bolt or two as tends to happen with these engines and it becomes a bigger job quick.

 

That's my worry also. Based upon other readings on this forum, the water pump bolts seem to be a problem. Thankfully I won't have to have the truck together by Monday (not this Monday, just any Monday) in order to get to work. But I'd rather not turn it into a major project any more than it already is.

What about the thermostat?

 

Still better than putting it all back together and then having to change the pump AND breaking a bolt.

 

Yeah. There is that.

Is the issue typically corrosion where it threads into the block, or corrosion where it passes through the water pump housing?

 

I don't see any reason at all to do anything with the thermostat, they aren't wear items, a thermostat can outlast the engine, or not, but no reason to suspect it nor are they that hard later.

Of course, but water pumps can last a very long time, they give a warning that can last a long time via the weep hole, you can drive on a weeping pump for a very long time, and they almost never really need immediate replacement they just start to leak too much, so you can pick your time to change it. Thus if there is no sign of it weeping and you're not at least 95% sure you'll have it for many years then why bother taking the risk and hassle now.

EDIT, I got a 5.0 right now that needs a pump BAD(got it that way), I just damaged the radiator cap in a way that it no longer holds pressure, thus the pump doesn't leak. If I get it hot it will cook out the coolant, but it doesn't get hot. I'll get around to changing it soon, but I need some time and that gives it to me.

 

It's the long bolts where they pass through the aluminum timing cover. Electrolysis tends to either seize the shank to the cover and you end up breaking the head off, or corrode the bolt away so that it's small in diameter and breaks in the middle.

 

BruteFord, I think I'll go with the thought of not buying trouble. My thoughts of the thermostat come from just changing the thermostat in my wife's DD which failed because it actually broke into two pieces inside the housing. Probably just a crappy off-shore item.

Right now the temperature gauge isn't working. (More electrical issues to work through.) Once I get that resolved I'll be able to tell for sure how things are responding to no load running. I'll also check for weeping water from the pump. But barring any obvious signs of imminent failure I think I'll let sleeping dogs lay.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

Does it have a rear main seal leak?

 

Don't know. There is evidence of oil leaking rand the back of huge engine and the transmission, but I don't know it's source. What's the best way to tell? I've thought about using a spray engine cleaner to get the accumulated gunk off but am uncertain as to which one to use.

 

It will usually be cleaner at the point where it leaks.

 

If the rear oil leak can be traced up to either the oil pan gasket or valve cover gaskets, those are easy. If the oil leak is just around the interface between the transmission and the engine, it's probably a rear main seal. I hate those.

I found that nothing cleans so well as a stiff brush used on any type of spray degreaser. I've used Simple Green very effectively. Apply, scrub, rinse, repeat until you see bare metal. Spread some newspaper underneath to catch the spooge that comes off, and change as necessary. It's so much more pleasant to work on things without having to also fight the grime.

 

Didn't occur to me. But when you stop and think about it, it makes perfect sense. Thanks.