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I'm putting this thermostat in tonight. When I was scanning this thread I remember seeing something where the mishi stat needs to be boiled in the new housing first??? Does that literally mean plop it in the housing and toss it in a pot on the stove? How long should I boil it for??
Just wanted to clarify. Sorry I'm wicked short on time tonight and didn't have the time to refind that post. Hoping someone knows off the top of their head. Thanks!
Ok cool so don't actually boil it in the housing just boil it alone. THEN put it in the housing and install? Don't wanna do this twice like I do everything else
Correct, just boil it on its own. You should see it open rather quickly. Once it has opened fully (not a whole lot of movement) you can remove it from the water and then install it in the housing. The issue is in shipping for some reason the stat seems to extend, then it won't compress and fit into the housing until it is boiled and "reset".
Correct, just boil it on its own. You should see it open rather quickly. Once it has opened fully (not a whole lot of movement) you can remove it from the water and then install it in the housing. The issue is in shipping for some reason the stat seems to extend, then it won't compress and fit into the housing until it is boiled and "reset".
Originally Posted by KES08
Either way, it doesn't matter. Boiling it gets it up to temp and opens it all the way up then when it cools it will reset and close all the way. It doesn't fit right now bc it is not fully closed. The wax inside has to be heated to allow it to fully open so it can then relax again and fully close.
LOL those werds you rote was reel hard to reed
Looks like it'll work either way. Thanks for the fast response man I really appreciate it
Looks like it'll work either way. Thanks for the fast response man I really appreciate it
Ha ha for realz
If you already have it installed in the housing and it fits properly, seals, etc, there's actually no need to boil it and you got a lucky one. Most of us have received one that was slightly extended and couldn't be compressed to fit into the housing.
Ok cool so don't actually boil it in the housing just boil it alone. THEN put it in the housing and install? Don't wanna do this twice like I do everything else
I boiled mine IN the housing.....and it works fine, best upgrade I've done to date. just be sure you have the updated housing #that ends in C91 not C92
Got it in! Once I actually had it in my hand I felt stupid for even asking. It was obvious lol. The plunger held the thing at least an 1/8" up, almost broke my fingers trying to compress that spring so I just boiled it alone and then compressed the plunger and it popped right in. Thanks all for your help. Esp you tfunk, couldn't have done it without your explicit instructions
I'm officially joining the ELC and mishi crowd, I feel so popular! Cant wait to see how it runs and what the temps will be!
Got it in! Once I actually had it in my hand I felt stupid for even asking. It was obvious lol. The plunger held the thing at least an 1/8" up, almost broke my fingers trying to compress that spring so I just boiled it alone and then compressed the plunger and it popped right in. Thanks all for your help. Esp you tfunk, couldn't have done it without your explicit instructions
I'm officially joining the ELC and mishi crowd, I feel so popular! Cant wait to see how it runs and what the temps and delta will be!
I aim to please
Good deal, man! I think you'll like it...my truck definitely runs better with it than the OEM stat, which only kept temps above 190 for a couple months. Then it wouldn't hold above 183 and my fuel mileage went south. Now it's consistently 200.
I'm real happy with my new mishi. I had a new one put in with the hg job. 5k miles later and up to 89 degrees ambient and it's staying at 204 to 206 ect running 70 to 80 mph and my splits are 3 to 4 (sometimes 5 at 80mph) If it stays it stays up to the 206 in 100 degree weather I'll be very very happy.
Up date on my Mishimoto, I have some time on it now and it still shows me 198 to 201* ( I suspect 199* for the low but the PCM reads temps below 200* in increments of two) for a low and I've yet to see highs above 207* for oil temps...generally the delta is 4 to 6*. I'm amazed at those deltas with this tstat because with the OEM my deltas were 7 to 9 consistently, I'm blown away as to what would bring them closer with a higher water temp.
Originally Posted by Jmoen7
You are consistent to most finds, mine included. I would sometimes have a 7 degree spread on OEM. With Mishi being hotter, it's now 3-4 which is very nice in the oil cooler depeartment
There's been a few hiccups in the thread of bad findings but generally the stat is great
You guys are totally misinterpreting the "Delta" implication. Fords delta value was a means of measure of the coolers efficiency in reducing the oil temp with the coolant at a specific temperature and conditions. The relationship is not linear. If you alter the operating coolant temp the 15F spread value is no longer valid. The oil temp will not go up the same amount and unless your very good at calculating thermodynamics you can't use the 15F spread. The oil cooler has not become more efficient, lowering the delta.
If you had a 7F spread before the TS change and the Delta warning value was 15F, and with a new TS increasing coolant temp so you now see 3F Delta under those exact same condition right away, the new Delta warning point may drop by 4F to 11F rather then 15F.
The coolers efficiently hasn't changed, the values have.
You guys are totally misinterpreting the "Delta" implication. Fords delta value was a means of measure of the coolers efficiency in reducing the oil temp with the coolant at a specific temperature and conditions. The relationship is not linear. If you alter the operating coolant temp the 15F spread value is no longer valid. The oil temp will not go up the same amount and unless your very good at calculating thermodynamics you can't use the 15F spread. The oil cooler has not become more efficient, lowering the delta.
If you had a 7F spread before the TS change and the Delta warning value was 15F, and with a new TS increasing coolant temp so you now see 3F Delta under those exact same condition right away, the new Delta warning point may drop by 4F to 11F rather then 15F.
The coolers efficiently hasn't changed, the values have.
I'm not a physicist by any means, But the view you take is the oil temp has a certain number that determines when the oil cooler is not allowing circulation for instance.. 190fwt 206eot cooler plugged... which could be the case, what you are also saying is 202fwt eot 212 or there abouts...oil cooler plugged worse, I disagree, on the basis that the water is cooling the oil in both instances hotter water just naturally means hotter oil. Now if you have a number that cracks the EGR cooler that would be better to know. I'm of a mind that as long as water is passing thru the oil cooler and through the EGR cooler both are safe at temps well above those I have stated, but I've been wrong before.
05-24-2016, 03:47 PM
so I just boiled it alone and then compressed the plunger and it popped right in. Thanks all for your help. Esp you tfunk, couldn't have done it without your explicit instructions 
Cant wait to see how it runs and what the temps will be!
