Rust Treatments - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums



1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Rust Treatments

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 08-21-2014, 04:27 PM
jvmcc's Avatar
jvmcc jvmcc is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Calais, Vermont
Posts: 780
jvmcc has a great reputation on FTE.jvmcc has a great reputation on FTE.jvmcc has a great reputation on FTE.jvmcc has a great reputation on FTE.jvmcc has a great reputation on FTE.
Rust Treatments

How, exactly, do rust treatments work? Permatex calls one of its products a "rust treatment". Some other products refer to themselves as "rust converters". PickleX 20 says, "it acts as a metal surface cleaner, rust remover, 100% rust converter, very long term rust inhibitor, pre-treatment/conversion coating and a sealer...". What exactly happens when these products come into contact with metal and/or rust? For what it's worth, I did apply PickleX 20 onto bare sheet metal truck cab after blasting it. The metal still looks great, even after sitting in my unconditioned garage for about a year. I do not know what happens when it reacts to rust, but it sure does a nice job keeping the metal rust-free while I get everything else ready to paint.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-24-2014, 08:25 PM
My Old Tools My Old Tools is offline
Freshman User
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Quinlan, TX
Posts: 34
My Old Tools is starting off with a positive reputation.
Do some searching on electrolytic rust removal or electrolysis. It works well and doesn't affect the underlying metal.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-25-2014, 12:10 AM
dmack91's Avatar
dmack91 dmack91 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 946
dmack91 has a great reputation on FTE.dmack91 has a great reputation on FTE.dmack91 has a great reputation on FTE.dmack91 has a great reputation on FTE.
I think the converters make the rust into an inert material. It usually turns the rust black in color upon contact. I used Rustoleum's aerosol converter on several of my parts. Between 1-2 years old, and no sign of issues yet (I live in a fairly dry climate though).
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-25-2014, 10:11 AM
CharlieLed's Avatar
CharlieLed CharlieLed is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: El Cajon, CA
Posts: 5,010
CharlieLed has much to be proud ofCharlieLed has much to be proud ofCharlieLed has much to be proud ofCharlieLed has much to be proud ofCharlieLed has much to be proud ofCharlieLed has much to be proud ofCharlieLed has much to be proud ofCharlieLed has much to be proud ofCharlieLed has much to be proud ofCharlieLed has much to be proud of
Rust is ferrus oxide...ferris or ferric refers to iron and oxide is oxygen. When iron and oxygen come in contact they form ferrus oxide. To remove ferrus oxide (rust) from metal you must apply a chemical that has a stronger bond to the oxide than does the iron. This is where the term "rust convertor" originates. There are many chemicals that will do this...phosphoric acid is what is found in most while things like molasses also work given enough time. I wrote a tech article some years ago on the HAMB on electrolysis for removing rust, this works especially well for smaller parts but I have seen instances where a pool was built to hold a motorhome frame that was treated using electrolysis. Other products such as rust inhibitors usually coat the iron/steel providing a barrier between it and the source of the oxygen.

I use KYB products to treat rusted metal. Three step process; cleaner, rust convertor, sealer. Many products on the market, the trick is to find one that suits your purposes. For me that long pole in the tent is using a product that can be sanded and painted with standard automotive paints.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-25-2014, 11:23 AM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer AXracer is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 15,753
AXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud of
I've had excellent results with Rustoleum rust reformer. It is available in aerosol cans and in a wipe on liquid. It is a thin liquid that will wick and penetrate into microscopic pits, seams, etc., it is great for use inside doors, cab corners, between panels and seams, on pitted metal. It has no effect on clean metal, but forms a hard black compound when it comes in contact with iron oxide aka rust. It should not be applied heavily, just enough to wet the surface. (be sure to wear rubber gloves when working with it, it will work on the iron compounds in your skin as well as it does with rust, leaving a hard black layer on the surface of the skin that must wear off. Once it has cured (completed reacting, it doesn't harden or dry, it is not a paint or coating) for 24 hours it can be primed and painted.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-25-2014, 10:47 PM
Harrier's Avatar
Harrier Harrier is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California, MO
Posts: 4,699
Harrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud of
This may be a dumb question, but I'm always full of those.
How big of a piece would you consider for the Rustoleum rust reformer? I'm working on my inner fenders and I started thinking about sand blasting (I would need to hire that out.) Would using the rust reformer be a valid option for something like that? Obviously sand blasting would be the best option, but if the cost is too high something like this might be an option. At some point in time, when the money is saved up. I will do body work and make the truck new. But for now, I want to drive it....I'm also kind of growing fond of the patina.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-25-2014, 11:41 PM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer AXracer is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 15,753
AXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud of
If the panel has only a light even coat of surface rust, give it a sanding with a green nylon scrub pad to remove any loose rust and give it a coat of reformer, then a coat of primer followed by a color top coat all from rattle cans. If the rust is heavy and/or flaking clean it off as much as possible with scraping and with a wire brush then reformer it. be sure to follow the application instructions carefully.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-26-2014, 06:52 AM
Harrier's Avatar
Harrier Harrier is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California, MO
Posts: 4,699
Harrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud ofHarrier has much to be proud of
Thanks AX, I think I will try that on one and see how it goes. I've got one somewhat clean so I will try that one. If that works well, I will continue with the other.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-26-2014, 08:54 AM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer AXracer is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 15,753
AXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud ofAXracer has much to be proud of
Remember the reformer will react with remaining rust, will not affect any of the rust free metal, so if you have sanded it will come out blotchy, that's ok.
Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Painting jvmcc 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 4 09-12-2013 11:57 PM
Rust under cab, I'm confused, what would you do? aldridgec Paint & Bodywork 1 02-28-2012 03:44 PM
Zero Rust Topcoat and Picklex 20 Christopher2 Paint & Bodywork 0 05-07-2005 11:23 PM
Metal Ready or Picklex-20 or others? sancochojoe 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 7 03-22-2005 06:07 PM
Metal Ready or Picklex-20 is there a difference - Price is? sancochojoe Paint & Bodywork 0 03-21-2005 03:57 PM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums >

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:25 AM.