Engine cranks over won't start! (revisited)
#1
Engine cranks over won't start! (revisited)
I realize this thread has been started several times, I've read them!
For a little confusion I'll throw in that the 5.8L is from a '94 F150, Engine wiring harness is from a '90 F250 (5.8L) EEC is from same F250.
This is the first start up in it's new home. I have been through the harness at least 4 times and all EEC to sensor/component has continuity through the connectors. The F250 ran when I pulled engine and EEC. I have gone through all the initial startup double checks and troubleshooting procedures.
Checked firing order, there is fuel at the rail and has 35 psi pressure, timing is set to *10 btdc while cranking with spout connector removed. It has spark and enough to almost give me a heart attack at that. Something is not right yet but can't figure out what yet.
For a little confusion I'll throw in that the 5.8L is from a '94 F150, Engine wiring harness is from a '90 F250 (5.8L) EEC is from same F250.
This is the first start up in it's new home. I have been through the harness at least 4 times and all EEC to sensor/component has continuity through the connectors. The F250 ran when I pulled engine and EEC. I have gone through all the initial startup double checks and troubleshooting procedures.
Checked firing order, there is fuel at the rail and has 35 psi pressure, timing is set to *10 btdc while cranking with spout connector removed. It has spark and enough to almost give me a heart attack at that. Something is not right yet but can't figure out what yet.
#2
ok so your using the 94 5.8 motor in your bronco.
2 questions, why are you using the F250 harness and computer? do you still have your original wiring harness? do you also have your original EEC?
are you using the distributor from the 94 motor and if so you must have gone to the remote mount tfi module correct?
when I did my 5.8 swap on my previous 88 bronco I used my 5.0 wiring harness (wrapped up the knocksensor). I had to find a tfi mounted 5.8 dizzy and remove the cam gear and swap the 94 5.8 dizzy cam gear onto it. I also purchased a 5.8/C6 eec. bronco ran great with no issues.
I am wondering if perhaps your using the incorrect color TFI module. there is a difference
2 questions, why are you using the F250 harness and computer? do you still have your original wiring harness? do you also have your original EEC?
are you using the distributor from the 94 motor and if so you must have gone to the remote mount tfi module correct?
when I did my 5.8 swap on my previous 88 bronco I used my 5.0 wiring harness (wrapped up the knocksensor). I had to find a tfi mounted 5.8 dizzy and remove the cam gear and swap the 94 5.8 dizzy cam gear onto it. I also purchased a 5.8/C6 eec. bronco ran great with no issues.
I am wondering if perhaps your using the incorrect color TFI module. there is a difference
#3
ok so your using the 94 5.8 motor in your bronco.
2 questions, why are you using the F250 harness and computer? do you still have your original wiring harness? do you also have your original EEC?
are you using the distributor from the 94 motor and if so you must have gone to the remote mount tfi module correct?
when I did my 5.8 swap on my previous 88 bronco I used my 5.0 wiring harness (wrapped up the knocksensor). I had to find a tfi mounted 5.8 dizzy and remove the cam gear and swap the 94 5.8 dizzy cam gear onto it. I also purchased a 5.8/C6 eec. bronco ran great with no issues.
I am wondering if perhaps your using the incorrect color TFI module. there is a difference
2 questions, why are you using the F250 harness and computer? do you still have your original wiring harness? do you also have your original EEC?
are you using the distributor from the 94 motor and if so you must have gone to the remote mount tfi module correct?
when I did my 5.8 swap on my previous 88 bronco I used my 5.0 wiring harness (wrapped up the knocksensor). I had to find a tfi mounted 5.8 dizzy and remove the cam gear and swap the 94 5.8 dizzy cam gear onto it. I also purchased a 5.8/C6 eec. bronco ran great with no issues.
I am wondering if perhaps your using the incorrect color TFI module. there is a difference
#4
I believe you can use a test light on the injectors. the injector wiring should have been same and only the dizzy firing order would be different between the 2 engines
it wouldn't hurt to try your 5.0 eec or your original harness. everything is the same minus the knock sensor which is no big deal.
it wouldn't hurt to try your 5.0 eec or your original harness. everything is the same minus the knock sensor which is no big deal.
#5
I believe you can use a test light on the injectors. the injector wiring should have been same and only the dizzy firing order would be different between the 2 engines
it wouldn't hurt to try your 5.0 eec or your original harness. everything is the same minus the knock sensor which is no big deal.
it wouldn't hurt to try your 5.0 eec or your original harness. everything is the same minus the knock sensor which is no big deal.
#7
Forward progress! Shot some starting fluid into intake and it fired and ran, breifly. This efectively elimanates ignition trouble. Since I have fuel and pressure at the rail I pulled an injector plug and installed a small light bulb, nothing, because I have voltage at the injector plug, it's a ground/EEC problem. I'll try the 5.0 EEc after work tommorow, if it's not raining. If it fires then I'll get a new one.
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#9
Swapped out the EEC for the 5.0 EEC I had taken out. Engine cranks, Dizzy sparking, Fuel injectors still not working. The test light on #5 injector says there is power, 12V, but there is nothing across the terminals. Red wire comes from pin 37 and 57 on the EEC, goes to the injectors,and returns on tan/orange- white- pin 59 on EEC for 2,3,6and7. Tan/red-tan to pin 58 on EEC for 1,4,5and 8. Pin 20 grounds the EEC. Am I missing something here?
#11
Got your PM this morning, looking through the info in this thread and your PM leads me to a few key items to look at. Let me say you have a quite a mess on your hands.
Since your injectors are not firing I suggest you verify the PCM (EEC) is getting the PIP signal from the distributor/ICM. This signal is on Pin 56 of the PCM connector. The PIP signal provides the trigger for the ignition and for the PCM to fire the injectors. I realize you have spark but if the PIP is not getting to the PCM the injectors will never fire and the fuel pump will not stay running.
Your statement about the wire for Pin 30 on the PCM connector could be an issue once the PIP/injector issue is resolved. That blue/white wire comes from the start circuit to tell the PCM the starter is engaged and the NSS is in neutral/park. The same "start" signal is sent to the ICM too. IIRC it triggers a longer dwell cycle time during cranking.
Since your injectors are not firing I suggest you verify the PCM (EEC) is getting the PIP signal from the distributor/ICM. This signal is on Pin 56 of the PCM connector. The PIP signal provides the trigger for the ignition and for the PCM to fire the injectors. I realize you have spark but if the PIP is not getting to the PCM the injectors will never fire and the fuel pump will not stay running.
Your statement about the wire for Pin 30 on the PCM connector could be an issue once the PIP/injector issue is resolved. That blue/white wire comes from the start circuit to tell the PCM the starter is engaged and the NSS is in neutral/park. The same "start" signal is sent to the ICM too. IIRC it triggers a longer dwell cycle time during cranking.
#12
Since your injectors are not firing I suggest you verify the PCM (EEC) is getting the PIP signal from the distributor/ICM. This signal is on Pin 56 of the PCM connector. The PIP signal provides the trigger for the ignition and for the PCM to fire the injectors. I realize you have spark but if the PIP is not getting to the PCM the injectors will never fire and the fuel pump will not stay running.
I went back to the harness and checked, IGN ground and PIP from dizzy were turned around. Straightened that out and engine fired up and I let it idle till I reset advance on dizzy. I have some wiring to relocate away from the exhaust before it melts and causes big trouble.
#13
Got your PM this morning, looking through the info in this thread and your PM leads me to a few key items to look at. Let me say you have a quite a mess on your hands.
Your statement about the wire for Pin 30 on the PCM connector could be an issue once the PIP/injector issue is resolved. That blue/white wire comes from the start circuit to tell the PCM the starter is engaged and the NSS is in neutral/park. The same "start" signal is sent to the ICM too. IIRC it triggers a longer dwell cycle time during cranking.]
Your statement about the wire for Pin 30 on the PCM connector could be an issue once the PIP/injector issue is resolved. That blue/white wire comes from the start circuit to tell the PCM the starter is engaged and the NSS is in neutral/park. The same "start" signal is sent to the ICM too. IIRC it triggers a longer dwell cycle time during cranking.]
#14
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