to post pics, click on the little box with what looks like mountains in it(that is the insert images tool) in the top tool bar of the posting box.
then just follow the directions.

 

I would take a good look at your cab bushings, a body lift may not be needed if your current bushings are crushed. A new set of polyurathane cab bushings could help and will be less likely to compress as much as the stock rubber units do.

 

Oh ok I see it now. I was looking for a way to post a picture as a post not open a post and then insert a picture. I appreciate the heads up!

 

Thanks for the advice. Thats kind of along the lines that I was thinking. Is changing the body mount bushings a heck of a chore or should I leave this to someone with the right tools for the job. I would guess it would be done by taking the nuts off the body mounts, jacking up the body and suporting with jack stands, replace bushings, lower body and tighten back up. Is it that easy or is it more involved and going to be one of those you have to hold your mouth just right type jobs? Also, how much of the other stuff ie wiring harnesses and such will I need to disconnect in order to seperate the body from the frame just enough to slide the old bushings out and the new ones in?

 

I believe you can just loosen them all up a bit then jack up one end at a time and replace them. If the bolts come out you shouldn't have to jack it up very far.

 

The bushings can be easy or hard depending on how much rust is involved. Basically, the upper and lower rubber parts are connected by a steel tube that is a part of the top metal piece on the upper rubber. This isn't so bad except the lower piece has a similar tube that slips into the upper one, and the bolt is threaded into this inner tube. If there is rust, the two halves may not want to come apart, or the bolt may not want to come apart. An impact is also basically useless here too, since the rubber will just flex and absorb all the torque. A breaker bar is the tool to use here.
If the bolt won't turn or the halves won't separate, then use a sawzall across the top of the crossmember to make it all cooperate, some WD40 on the blade will help keep the rubber from sticking.

 

Thanks everyone for the pointers. I put "Big Bertha" to work this weekend and towed my 33footer TT to the lake. Unfortunately while I was out at the lake, I broke my ankle (ouch). The sad part is that there wasnt even any alcohol involved in the said accident (maybe that was my problem). So anyhow, it may be a bit before I am able to crawl around under her to make these repairs. I am disappointed that Im not going to be able to tackle this project for a while, but am fairly confident that this is likely my issue and will resolve the body clearance issues.