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  #31  
Old 08-22-2014, 08:07 AM
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Replacement hose nipples are not that much, $5-10 in most cases.
If the old one has deep rust pits where the hose fits, I'd say why risk having the hose leak for such a small price.
I know you bought a reman pump, but new aren't that much more. Most times, a new pump will come with the fitting(s) needed to install it.

Locktite on the fan clutch? No need, if you get it tight. Particularly if you ever want to get it back off.......
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  #32  
Old 08-22-2014, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff View Post
Locktite on the fan clutch? No need, if you get it tight. Particularly if you ever want to get it back off.......
Several members on here recommend loctite to keep the fan from unscrewing itself when the engine stops. Its not pretty when the fan loosens up and propels itself into the radiator.

Having used loctite on my fan clutch, I had no problem removing it a second time when the cheap pump I used failed 2 years later. I can't remember which color I used (red or blue) but it was under the advice from this forum.
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1988 F250, 7.3L IDI, regular cab, long bed, 5spd ZF
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next projects: fix/complete the 3.5 inch exhaust (tailpipe exits waaaaaay to low, and needs to be extended out from under the bed) swap to a rust free cab
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  #33  
Old 08-22-2014, 03:53 PM
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Rogue_Wulff - You're talking about the "heater hose fitting" that threads into the water pump, and the heater hose goes onto it, right? I'm looking on the O'Reilly site and they have a ton of them, but I'm not sure which to get. Do I just want to get one that is as close to this size as possible? Obviously I want the hose part to be the same diameter as the inside diameter of the hose that's going on it, just not sure about the rest of it.

I found this water pump at an auto parts store here for only $30.. so in my case it would have been over twice as much for the cheapest new one. I know it's not always best to buy the cheapest parts, but I'm on a budget here and it looks like an ok pump so we'll see how she does.

As far as the fan clutch, I've read more people saying to use RTV or loctite than I have people saying not to, so I plan on using it.
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  #34  
Old 08-22-2014, 05:07 PM
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Blue Locktite
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  #35  
Old 08-23-2014, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mozzles View Post
Rogue_Wulff - You're talking about the "heater hose fitting" that threads into the water pump, and the heater hose goes onto it, right? I'm looking on the O'Reilly site and they have a ton of them, but I'm not sure which to get. Do I just want to get one that is as close to this size as possible? Obviously I want the hose part to be the same diameter as the inside diameter of the hose that's going on it, just not sure about the rest of it.

I found this water pump at an auto parts store here for only $30.. so in my case it would have been over twice as much for the cheapest new one. I know it's not always best to buy the cheapest parts, but I'm on a budget here and it looks like an ok pump so we'll see how she does.

As far as the fan clutch, I've read more people saying to use RTV or loctite than I have people saying not to, so I plan on using it.
Yes, heater hose fitting. I don't know what size the hole is, but would bet it's either 3/8 NPT or 1/2 NPT, as those are fairly common sizes.
If all else fails, take the new pump with you, and a chunk of the hose. That should allow the store to match up one that will work.

I can understand having limited funds. But, most of the cheaper "reman" pumps don't last as well as the new ones. Even if it is replaced for free, you still have to do the work to change it, when it does fail......

I could see using green or blue locktite, if one really felt the need. I use an air hammer with the fan clutch adapter tool. I can knock these things off pretty easy, and make sure they go back on tight. I've never had one come off, after installing it with this method, and I don't use locktite.
One of the other mechanics had to remove a fan clutch I had installed several months earlier, and he had a rather hard time getting it off, as the serpentine belt (8 rib) kept slipping, and it wasn't a very old belt......
That was on a Cummins, those things shut down faster than any other engine I have ever seen/heard. The chirp they let out when shutting down, is the belt slipping from the momentum of the alt.....
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  #36  
Old 08-23-2014, 02:27 PM
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You should still get several years of good service from a reman pump. My reman pump is going on 6 years now, longer than the radiator that went in with it. Be careful not to over tighten the water pump bolts as you could warp the plate it mounts to causing a leak. The heater hose is 5/8" for when you go to get more.
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  #37  
Old 08-26-2014, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by kla94 View Post
There should be a wide wrench with the rental that will fit over the for bolts on the pulley. This allows you to hold the pulley and use the other wrench to turn the big nut on the clutch. LEFT HAND threads on the clutch.
Here was the most helpful idea I found for removing fan clutch nut...



Got this done, Wasn't too bad. Much more enjoyable then than damnable oil cooler (never drank so much AF as when I pulled the oil cooler off)...
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  #38  
Old 08-26-2014, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Sycostang67 View Post
You should still get several years of good service from a reman pump. My reman pump is going on 6 years now, longer than the radiator that went in with it. Be careful not to over tighten the water pump bolts as you could warp the plate it mounts to causing a leak. The heater hose is 5/8" for when you go to get more.
What is behind that plate? Mine was corroded pretty badly from what I assume was YEARS of running/sitting the truck with the same long worn out antifreeze before I got ahold of it. Lesson learned, check the coolant level and color/quality BEFORE buying the truck.
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  #39  
Old 08-26-2014, 11:40 PM
tecgod13 tecgod13 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zloetakoe View Post
What is behind that plate? Mine was corroded pretty badly from what I assume was YEARS of running/sitting the truck with the same long worn out antifreeze before I got ahold of it. Lesson learned, check the coolant level and color/quality BEFORE buying the truck.
Thats the timing cover. It covers the 'timing' gears, which are the gears from the crankshaft to the camshaft and injection pump. Its a direct route down into the oil pan, so if it corrodes away behind the waterpump you might have a big problem. Although I haven't heard of that happening.
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Mods: ATS turbo, 3.5 inch exhaust, superduty springs front and rear, 4 gauge A-pillar pod: boost, pyro, coolant and 4th spot is switches; was 2wd, now 4wd with Dana 60 front axle
next projects: fix/complete the 3.5 inch exhaust (tailpipe exits waaaaaay to low, and needs to be extended out from under the bed) swap to a rust free cab
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  #40  
Old 08-26-2014, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by tecgod13 View Post
Thats the timing cover. It covers the 'timing' gears, which are the gears from the crankshaft to the camshaft and injection pump. Its a direct route down into the oil pan, so if it corrodes away behind the waterpump you might have a big problem. Although I haven't heard of that happening.
Figured that whatever was behind there was important. I'm hoping that getting some good quality AF in there will slow down the process. Should have taken a picture. It was pretty unbelievable.
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  #41  
Old 08-29-2014, 11:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zloetakoe View Post
Here was the most helpful idea I found for removing fan clutch nut...


Removing a Radiator Fan Clutch Nut - The Easy Way - YouTube

Got this done, Wasn't too bad. Much more enjoyable then than damnable oil cooler (never drank so much AF as when I pulled the oil cooler off)...
That's a good idea. I use that method every time I remove or install a flywheel and clutch. I usually use the chain on my wallet though which has resulted in me leaving my wallet dangling under a car or two.
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Old 08-29-2014, 11:53 PM
 
 
 
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