6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

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  #31  
Old 08-25-2014, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
If you had the crank out of a V8 and put it back together (and it ran) this won't be a problem for you. I will say it's damn uncomfortable working under the hood for extended periods and there are a few bolts that are a booger to get at properly. I did my oil and EGR cooler and STC replacement back in 2012 and took a bunch of pictures, the thread is here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...many-pics.html . Really not that bad. I've done a couple more since then and was much faster but I also spent less time cleaning parts. I also broke my fan shroud when I tried to pull the intake with the fan shroud bolts still in place, they're kinda hidden. A good selection of hand tools is a must and ratcheting Gearwrench type wrenches come in handy a lot. Great bunch of folks here will be glad to help also if you have a question along the way and the torques are in the back of the coffe table books in the Tech folder.
I agree with Rusty. Your going to be ok.
The only big change between gas and diesel is
how heavy the parts can be. After that is all basic
mechanics skills and good practices (same with gas).
Take some photos along the way they come in handy
if you think something does not look right when it is
going back together.


Sean
 
  #32  
Old 08-26-2014, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 2006powerstroke90
Sorry to hijack OP but rusty where and what is this sensor you have pictured? I'm pretty good with sensors and switches on this truck but I'm confused with this one!
That would be IAT2. It's in the driver side intake runner, toward the front. Yahiko posted a picture of the bunghole (snicker) where it goes in post#13 of this thread.
 
  #33  
Old 08-26-2014, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
That would be IAT2. It's in the driver side intake runner, toward the front. Yahiko posted a picture of the bunghole (snicker) where it goes in post#13 of this thread.
Yes, I have been posting "dirty" photos.


Sean
 
  #34  
Old 08-26-2014, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
Yes, I have been posting "dirty" photos.


Sean
Will this sensor cause performance issues?
 
  #35  
Old 08-26-2014, 10:00 AM
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It can if plugged with soot.
What happens is it slows down it's reaction time
to any temp changes. But is is easy to clean.
just use care with the cleaner. I used the same stuff
I use for the MAF sensor and try to keep it out of
the electrical contacts even though they say it's safe.


Sean
 
  #36  
Old 08-26-2014, 09:09 PM
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I will add doing the IAT2 cleaning is a good thing, but you also need to clean the EGR, clean the MAF (mass air flow sensor) and the EB (exhaust back pressure sensor and tube down to the exhaust manifold. The tube needs to be removed and cleaned with a carb cleaner or such, the IAT2, MAF, EB with MAF sensor cleaner.

The PCM calculates engine load and how to actuate the VGT on the turbo using these measurements so if anything is off or reading slow, boost isn't built as fast, ect ect.

I suspect your load pulling issues are similar to my thread about chugging and black smoke, that Bismic and 04badford have replied too. I think I have gotten to the bottom of my issues, but need to do a bit more testing to be sure.
 
  #37  
Old 08-27-2014, 11:45 AM
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Prepared for the worst

Ok guys, give me the bad news (I think I know). ScanGauge II in place. 70 degrees outside. Down the road at 57 MPH with no load other than the truck and me. ECT 184 + or - 2. EOT 202 + or - 2. Boost is good, no codes thrown - just a large difference between temps. And with no load, what could it have been when I was pulling 7,000 lbs. (Which really isn't that much for 6.0L) but enough to throw the wrench.
 
  #38  
Old 08-27-2014, 12:44 PM
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When was the T-stat last replaced?


Sean
 
  #39  
Old 08-27-2014, 01:03 PM
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I have no idea. Probably never. The truck has less than 75,000 original miles, however, when I changed the oil and filter and the air filter, they looked horrible - as in never been touched. The same can be said for the EGR and the iat2 sensor. Are you thinking that the EOT is OK and the thermostat is dysfunctional? As in the ECT should be higher?
 
  #40  
Old 08-27-2014, 01:18 PM
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What is the Eot and ect after an overnight soak. They should be the same.

I was pushing a delta of 30 before I changed the oil cooler. But I didn't have an egr cooler to rupture. Is your egr deleted? If so, it is my opinion that your delta won't be a problem unless you tow. But, yes, your deltas look out of spec.

If you replace the tstat, the ect will climb 6 degrees, but do will the Eot.

What does your coolant look like?
 
  #41  
Old 08-27-2014, 01:29 PM
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Explain the overnight soak. Sounds like something my wife wants LOL. Do not believe that I have an EGR delete. Anyway to tell from looking? I bought this vehicle for towing and towing only. My V10 does my everyday work. As to the coolant - it loses none, staying within the degasser margins and appears to be colorless. Certainly not green but maybe some yellow.
 
  #42  
Old 08-27-2014, 01:37 PM
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That is the one odd thing. You would think that if your ECT was up by 10º
that the EOT would go up also. But it does not seem to always work out
that way. At 182º your running cold. I would do the T-stat and retest. Then
lets see what the deltas look like. You want to find a nice long flat section where
you can go 60MPH for at least 5 minutes then look at the ECT & EOT. You
need to also have the engine up to full operating temps. ie 192º.


Sean
 
  #43  
Old 08-27-2014, 08:31 PM
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If I replace the t-stat with a higher temp device, logically, won't the increased operating temp (ECT) result in higher EOT?? While I'm new to diesels, I'm unsure of this as a solution.
 
  #44  
Old 08-27-2014, 09:16 PM
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Overnight soak is letting it sit overnight to make sure the everything in the engine is the same temp.

I know what Sean is saying, but it is not true for my truck. I suspect it is for most others. My Eot always increases with my ect. Theoretically, it has to. There are delays in the rate of change of each depending on the conditions.

If you egr chamber is missing, it is deleted. If you don't know what it looks like, Google some photos. It's on the passenger side just inside the head and below the intake manifold. My egr is welded shut on each end to for a delete. So you can't tell be looking at mine if the egr is deleted.
 
  #45  
Old 08-27-2014, 09:34 PM
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Thanks. Just watched a You Tube video depicting the EGR delete method you have used. I have read so much and watched so many videos, I don't know if I'm winning or losing this battle. My inclination is to replace both coolers and be done with it just 'cause its going to have to happen eventually,
 


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