High EGTs on stock turbo with WW2. Upgrade stock exhaust housing?
#1
High EGTs on stock turbo with WW2. Upgrade stock exhaust housing?
I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 with 240k miles. TYMAR air intake; MBRP Exhaust; PHP tuner; WW2. Stock injectors. My EGT's are high. I am looking to set the truck up to pull my 8,000 boat that acts like a sail so I need to bring the EGTs down.
I plan on replacing the up-pipes with bellows from RR and while I am there, should I go with a GTP38R or should I go with a 1.0 exhaust housing, an ATS ported compressor housing, and whatever else I need there? I'm not planning on increasing injector size.
Located in Austin, TX. Yes, summer are hot and I am pulling the boat down to the coast in the heat of the day.
Thank you, in advance, for the assistance.
I plan on replacing the up-pipes with bellows from RR and while I am there, should I go with a GTP38R or should I go with a 1.0 exhaust housing, an ATS ported compressor housing, and whatever else I need there? I'm not planning on increasing injector size.
Located in Austin, TX. Yes, summer are hot and I am pulling the boat down to the coast in the heat of the day.
Thank you, in advance, for the assistance.
#6
I towed a buddies 25' center console down to Port O'Connor and and back this weekend. I have a SWAMPS TS chip and in the tow tune with the wicked headwind I would hit 1200 degrees easily so I backed off. No boost leaks, early wheel in my stock turbo, original injectors, 4" exhaust, AIS intake with the fender sleeve all new boots and plennum inserts. The SWAMPS tow tune supposedly only alters the trans shifting and uses stock fueling maps but in stock it was about 100 cooler and way low on power.
Guess a 38R and AC code injectors are in my future....curious what the gurus say about all of it
Guess a 38R and AC code injectors are in my future....curious what the gurus say about all of it
#7
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#8
Awesome looking Red!
I am running Gearhead Automotive Performance Tunes on a hydra chip. It is their standard tune package. When I am in Tow/Economy, I can hit 1200 easily just driving around Austin. If I am extra nice, I stay around 800-1000. Mind you, this is without the boat.
Just wondering if the 38R is the way to go or if I should just replace the .85 housing with 1.0 housing.
Thanks.
I am running Gearhead Automotive Performance Tunes on a hydra chip. It is their standard tune package. When I am in Tow/Economy, I can hit 1200 easily just driving around Austin. If I am extra nice, I stay around 800-1000. Mind you, this is without the boat.
Just wondering if the 38R is the way to go or if I should just replace the .85 housing with 1.0 housing.
Thanks.
#9
38R is an awesome turbo but it cannot be rebuilt.....reason I have not pulled the trigger on one yet. Seems to me if you go with the 1.0 on the exhaust side and put a ported housing on the front that may be better.....and cheaper. Experts will hopefully chime in soon. when I rebuilt my turbo two years ago I deleted my EBPV system and replaced the exhaust housing....I guess stock is .85?
#12
Essentially Yes, the more the gigantic air pump can move in and out, the better.
The biggest thing is to make sure you don't have boost leaks anywhere.
-Keep things simple and check the boots to make sure they're either not loose, leaking, or torn.
-If you see soot on the firewall behind the engine or on the pipes themselves, one or both of your up pipes are blown and need to be replaced.
-I'd also make sure the turbo itself was lined up correctly on the collector. I've seen people properly seat the turbo, but halfway, kinda sorta, line up the turbo and collector. This is true on both the 6.0 and 7.3.
The biggest thing is to make sure you don't have boost leaks anywhere.
-Keep things simple and check the boots to make sure they're either not loose, leaking, or torn.
-If you see soot on the firewall behind the engine or on the pipes themselves, one or both of your up pipes are blown and need to be replaced.
-I'd also make sure the turbo itself was lined up correctly on the collector. I've seen people properly seat the turbo, but halfway, kinda sorta, line up the turbo and collector. This is true on both the 6.0 and 7.3.
#13
In addition to what Toreador Diesel posted.......
A bigger A/R housing helps out with lower EGT's.
The stock turbo is a .84
You can change it to a 1.0
The Van turbo is a 1.15
The GTP 38R comes with the 1.0 housing
IIRC you can change it to a 1.15 non-wastegated
Edit: Here is a great link that describes the A/R housing and how changing it affects airflow & temps.
It's a bit of a toss up between spool up, boost at lower engine speeds & flow capacity.
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...housing_sizing
A bigger A/R housing helps out with lower EGT's.
The stock turbo is a .84
You can change it to a 1.0
The Van turbo is a 1.15
The GTP 38R comes with the 1.0 housing
IIRC you can change it to a 1.15 non-wastegated
Edit: Here is a great link that describes the A/R housing and how changing it affects airflow & temps.
It's a bit of a toss up between spool up, boost at lower engine speeds & flow capacity.
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...housing_sizing
#14
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