As already mentioned, use a remote source of fuel that you can hold above the carburetor to gravity feed the carburetor. There are devices designed for that or you can do it, carefully, with a funnel and length of hose. If it no longer stalls, then it is a fuel supply problem. If it still stalls, then it is a problem not related to the fuel supply.
Of the fuel supply, you've eliminated everything before the pump. Now you just need to eliminate the pump and line between the pump and carb.

 

I honestly don't think so since I bought a rebuild kit and rebuilt it to be safe. Operation seemed fine on the bench when moving the pump arm by hand the little bit I could by hand I could feel suction on the inlet side.



It was picking fuel up, the sediment bowl filled up when cranking on it. I also took the hardline off at the pump from the pump to the carb and cranked it over, first time I cranked the first spurt I did not see but the second I looked over the hood and hit the key and the volume that came out was quite a bit. I probably need to check it at the carb, maybe theres something wrong with the hardline, blockage or something between the pump and the carb.


I blew through the inlet on the carb and air flow was easy and it shut off tight just barely seating the needle valve. So I know the carb is working correctly. Only thing I am not sure of is the vacuum hose I used which sitting in the fuel started to swell up and get soft might be collapsing but I doubt this as it sprayed fuel out of the discharge on the pump itself. Or there could be blockage in the hardline between pump and carb. When I disconnected the hardline a little fuel came out and considering the fuel bowl has no filter with check valve the fuel would drain completely out of the bowl if any was left in there or the hardline hook up.


So I will be getting a fuel pump tester so I can check pressure and volume at the carb then compare it to at the pump to see if the hardline is no good.






Now guy at work he was telling me that if the pressure is not there it cant open the needle seat. I told him when the float drops the needle seat lifts up and doesn't need pressure to open the seat. He also told me my fuel pump should hold pressure.

 

I tested the fuel pump at the carburetor and cranking the engine over I hit and held 5 PSI till I relieved pressure at the fuel pump outlet by opening the flare nut. Spec in shop manual is 4 to 5 psi @ 500 rpm with the engine running.


I didn't test the volume but I believe the volume is there because the spray of fuel out of the outlet when cranking appeared to be a good volume with each spray.


I did as I posted in my fuel problem post removed the top of the fuel bowl and tried cranking and couldn't get fuel to pump in, I even removed the float and needle seat and still nothing. I then reinstalled the needle and float and removed the hardline at the fuel pump and blew through the hardline into the carb and lifting the float up I was able to cut air off.


I am stumped like crazy that I can blow into the carb through the fuel line but yet at 5 psi the fuel wont go in.


Up side though is I ran the engine long enough and at a high rate of speed at first till I warmed the engine up then went to full idle and it sounds like the rockers are not making as much noise as they were in the video. I also think I got the cooling system filled up enough but it is pointless as the radiator needs to be replaced due to three tubes being disconnected from the top tank.


Aside from being stumped right now on he fuel issue while I was running the engine I noticed my Gen light went out and I thought damn the generator just started charging all of a sudden. Then I wondered if the bulb just burned out but when the engine stalled out the Gen light came back along with the oil light. So it appears my generator was fine all along. Wasn't charging cause I might not have hit a fast enough RPM after sitting for so many years am thinking it might have needed to be polarized again.

 

Belief doesn't solve any problem. Facts do. You need to check the flow rate if you want to get to the bottom of this.

Blowing into the fuel line doesn't verify much, either. Fuel line or a temporary length of rubber hose is cheap. Make sure the line is good.

Have you tried running it from a remote fuel source, yet?

 

Not yet, but I have thought about trying to bend the hardline a little straighter. The short piece of rubber between the hardline and the carb is twisted a little and I am just thinking if the inside of the fuel hose is actually collapsed.


Im also starting to think about the hardline. I think I will pull it off at lunch tomorrow and see if I can pour water through it. Maybe there is blockage but it doesn't feel like there is when blowing. I could be causing the fuel pump to build up pressure and then shut it down before it can even get the fuel up to the carburetor.






Checked the hardline, pouring water through it indicated the line was not restricted. I also hooked a long piece of hose to the hardline at the carb and cranked on the engine after about 10 seconds of cranking I got somewhere around 6 to 8 oz of fuel in a 12 oz container. Took a while for the fuel to fill up that 4 feet of hose I had between the hardline and the container. The spec is 1 pint in 30 seconds @ 500 rpm.


I keep getting told to replace the fuel pump and I keep coming back with if they are going to pay for another fuel pump cause I got $90 in this fuel pump as it is I bought the pump used for $15 and then spent another $75 on a overhaul kit for the fuel pump. I cant spent yet another $100 for a fuel pump just to throw parts at it. I honestly don't think the fuel pump is the problem. If I can pump fuel out of the hardlline and out of the hose then it should come out of the needle seat assembly inside the carb and it does not.

 

I slept on it and started thinking maybe the volume is lower than what it should be. Then i remember that last night i had a hose about four feet long running from the hard line at the carb over the pass fender to the ground and back up to a container being held above the fender. If it pumped fuel that far in less than 20 seconds then it should be filling the carb.

Then i started to think since i have pressure at the hardline at the fuel pump after cranking but none at the carb itself i started to think maybe the flare is not sitting right and blocking the hardline since the hardline has water flow as fast as it enters.

This cant be because i was able to pump fuel through this hardline andtested pressure at the carb.

I will need to see if i have fuel flow through the carb under normal gravity. Might be a combination of the fuel pump and carb but this will be my first carb rebuild that hasn't worked for me.

 

What i mean by pressure at pump and none at carb is fuel wise. I got 5psi reading gauge wise at the carb but cracking the line loose at the pump fuel sprays out. I need to double check it at the carb itself but i dont think fuel sprayed out at the carb but i cant remeber if i bled pressure off first at pump every time or not.






When I get time I am going to hook a hose to the carb and using a funnel with the top of the carb removed see if fuel will gravity feed through if it does then I will just replace the pump. If it does not then I will try to clear the blockage in the carburetor inlet which I think might be the case cause when cranking on it with the needle seat removed the pocket filled with fuel and just bubbled a little, I think my blockage is probably there and will verify it later this week.

 

I got the fuel issue resolved. I went ahead and checked the voltage to see if the generator truly is charging since the light is now going out once the engine starts running.


At full idle (not sure of speed) the voltage is around 12 to 12.8 volts. Applying a little throttle and the voltage goes up to 14 to 14.2 volts. I need to hit up my shop manual to check for specs on the charging system but for now it is enough to keep the battery charged up while I am tackling the other areas of the mechanicals. I think I got the block filled with water for the most part (1 gallon antifreeze) but with three cores disconnected from the top tank of the radiator, it leaks once the thermostat opens up so I have to keep an eye on it till I get the radiator recored or just buy a reproduction if its cheaper.






I did come across the records for this car though. I have maintance records dating back to August 2, 1963 and as recent as April 27, 1980. For the most part most of the records are just basic things like oil change and filter, points, spark plugs. But theres some unique ones such as a grease job done on the car October 20, 1968 @ 112,764 miles. Then the transmission was serviced on October 15, 1967 @ 105,850 miles and before that August 2, 1963 @ 75,600 miles. Only thing that I found a little strange is the valves were only set once in this log and that was on October 20, 1963 @ 77,000 miles. I will be checking them but they are not making as much noise as they were, they actually got quieter after the last time I ran the engine and I held the RPM up a little high for a while. Not much smoke coming out of the exhaust just the driver side and its very faint. Could be condensation in the exhaust or it could be a ring that is a little sticky. But the smoking is getting better though than when I first cranked it up. Like wise when shutting the engine off the breather cap is smoking less than it was the first time.

 

Sounds like you're really making progress and have a plan for all the usual problems on a 50 year old rig and usual show stoppers. I'd be inclined to run some MMO in the oil and run a couple flushes to help free up any residual carbon and/or sticky valves or lifters, just to be sure.

Got a replacement carb for my 292 a stock 2100 coming in to replace the 4412 "Niagara Falls" carb I was running. It's ready to drive anywhere. Yours will be soon, too it looks like.

 

What was the fuel problem?

you're making great progress, considering that the engine wouldn't budge at the beginning of this thread.
Valves getting quieter means something. Check the adjustment and keep an eye on it for at least a couple hundred miles. Make a log each time you check, noting if the valve is tight, loose, or correct. Even better, indicate how tight or loose.

 

The spec is 14.6-15.4 volts depending on temperature, to handle the increased load in cold weather, but not boil out a battery in hot weather. Sounds like you're good to go. When I'm futzing around in the garage with lots of starts and/or idling, usually hit it with a booster charge because idling won't replenish a battery in a generator system.

It's also important to measure current output, not just voltage, at ~1500 RPM, with the heater blower, headlights and everything else on. 30 amperes isn't a whole lot, and will need most of it.

 

I am thinking of adding some MMO to the oil just to help out. This one is a mid '70s replacement 2100 carb that I rebuild I have the original 4bbl intake and holley 4000 carb that came off this car that will be put on I am just using this for now as its easy to rebuild and tune. Next thing on my list is the radiator, need to see how much to recore the whole thing vs just buying a new one for $500. Then its on to the brakes, going to get master cylinder, front and rear bake hoses, four new wheel cylinders, new hardware kits for front and rear, and the brake shoe return springs.


I made a video last night and you can still hear the tapping like you did in the video I posted on here. But when I had it idling the tapping was considerably quieter listening with my ears. I will be checking the valve lash before I attach the later style choke stove to the carb. I need to either get the original manifold ear reattached or get a replacement as its a pain removing valve cover on passenger side with a heat tube crossing it.


As for the fuel problem, when I rebuilt the fuel pump and carb,I didn't flush out the hardline between the pump and the carb so some garbage in that hardline got pushed into the carbwhere the needle seat housing mesh filter stopped it. This allowed you to blow trough it but when you put fuel to it and tried to blow through it you could not get the fuel to move. I cleared it out and I had it running till the temp gauge got up to the low side of normal.



I will be getting a amp tester in the near future so I can check the amp output as well.


I just wished there was a rpm spec for fast idle, the shop manual just talks about how many turns to set it from touching the stop at slow idle. I think I will adjust it to be around 1,500 rpm as I hate having them set up at 2,000 rpm fast idle. But maybe 2,000 would be good for a solid lifter engine vs a hydraulic lifter.

 

I find that the valves sound louder on the typical video recording. The average camera is nothing spectacular for audio. As a result, it is hard to judge that from a recording.

1500rpm should be a good fast idle.

 

Question on the oil bath filter. How much do you put in it? Manual talks about a lil but i dont see any line.


Second question is about the fan/generator belt. Does anyone make a reproduction? Ive seen GM and Mopar having concourse restoration and Marti Report makes some for Fords but not for my application. If no one does make a reproduction then what about a non cog belt? I am not too crazy about cog belts as they don't look period correct, and Ive had a few that gave troubles of squealing when cold.

 

Gates should make one, not sure about any period correct. The oil bath filter takes 1 pt. May be yours is a replacement. The fill line is basically even with the ledge and marked.