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  #61  
Old 01-20-2015, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by hiball3985 View Post
Rebuilding your own is OK if you can turn the commutator, remove and replace the bushings and solder the brushes.
Carpenters had the rebuild kit for $29 including armature. I think probably the key after that is the field coils aren't roasted or shorting to ground, too. Can't believe people are dissing the Ford starter, tsk tsk!
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  #62  
Old 01-20-2015, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedster9 View Post
Carpenters had the rebuild kit for $29 including armature. I think probably the key after that is the field coils aren't roasted or shorting to ground, too. Can't believe people are dissing the Ford starter, tsk tsk!
Can you post a link to that, I can't find it on their site..
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  #63  
Old 01-20-2015, 12:00 PM
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C2AZ-11002-K

That's the stock number. Complete with dusty, musty boxes. Picked up a water pump rebuild kit from them too.

B6C-8591-A @ $14.95

Looks like they pick up obsoleted dealer parts and sell them for reasonable prices. Their new rubber parts seem to be excellent too, cowl seals and stuff like that. One thing I picked up that maybe will help with starter lifespan is starter to flywheel housing seal. Maybe it helps keep road brine out, I dunno.
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  #64  
Old 01-20-2015, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedster9 View Post
C2AZ-11002-K

That's the stock number. Complete with dusty, musty boxes. Picked up a water pump rebuild kit from them too.

B6C-8591-A @ $14.95

Looks like they pick up obsoleted dealer parts and sell them for reasonable prices. Their new rubber parts seem to be excellent too, cowl seals and stuff like that. One thing I picked up that maybe will help with starter lifespan is starter to flywheel housing seal. Maybe it helps keep road brine out, I dunno.
Thanks, found it, don't know why it didn't come up in my first search.

The seal will keep water/dirt from getting into the bell housing which helps the bendix and your clutch parts put don't think it actually helps the starter.
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  #65  
Old 01-20-2015, 12:24 PM
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I wondered about that, it didn't look like it would do much.
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  #66  
Old 01-20-2015, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliemccraney View Post
One thing you might want to do since you've been doing a lot of cranking, at very low rpm if the battery is not up to the job, without starting, is to pull the distributor and prime the oil system. Use a socket taped to an extension to reach the pump drive shaft and then turn it with a drill. You can also use an old distributor shaft and there are actually tools for the job. Pull the valve covers and turn the pump until you get oil out of the rockers.

The oil light actually goes out after about 5 seconds of cranking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiball3985 View Post
Rebuilding your own is OK if you can turn the commutator, remove and replace the bushings and solder the brushes.

A gear reduction type is probably the best but investing that kind of money on this old engine that has sat this long and may have many issues is a bit much. You can get a Wilson rebuild at O'Reileys for $107 with bendix, I've actually had good luck with a few.

That's why I am going to be taking it to finches starter/alternator/generator/battery shop. Have him rebuild the starter and generator for me to new specs. I talked to a guy at work and he said hes used them for the last 30 years and they are good, have high quality of work and will even sandblast the cases for you. They are also reasonably priced as well.


I am thinking of having them do it for me cause I didn't know you had to solder the brushes on till last night when I was reading about it in my shop manual.

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Originally Posted by Tedster9 View Post
No what I mean are you charging the battery.

I bought a "new" or remanufactured from DB electrical for $120 iirc. Seems OK. We'll see. Have one bum starter and one that was getting there, so I bought a rebuild kit from Dennis Carpenter. Has bushings, brushes, positive post and motorcraft armature. So we'll see. having a working spare on the shelf seems like a plan.

Yes I put the battery on a 2.5Amp trickle charge sunday after I did the battery cables and let it charge for an hour.


The couldn't find a kit so I bought a brush set, 4 springs, the front and rear bushing and that was it from Macs, Dennis I got a generator kit that comes with the armature, front and rear bearing, and brushes.
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  #67  
Old 01-20-2015, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty_S View Post
Yes I put the battery on a 2.5Amp trickle charge sunday after I did the battery cables and let it charge for an hour. The couldn't find a kit so I bought a brush set, 4 springs, the front and rear bushing and that was it from Macs, Dennis I got a generator kit that comes with the armature, front and rear bearing, and brushes.
Sounds good. A good battery, starter and charging system will go a long way to keeping you from aggravation. On the charger, an hour doesn't really mean anything unless there's some indication on the charger itself. It may take several hours or overnight, easy.
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  #68  
Old 01-20-2015, 03:32 PM
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I'll ask again, has the battery been determined to be good and strong. It may very well show good solid 12+ volts but fall flat under full load. Is this a good battery or an el cheapo? Iv'e seen new batteries that were crap, no power under load. A good starter, cables, etc are not going to perform with a junk battery. Do you have a good hot battery you can pull from another vehicle and try?
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  #69  
Old 01-20-2015, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raytasch View Post
I'll ask again, has the battery been determined to be good and strong. It may very well show good solid 12+ volts but fall flat under full load. Is this a good battery or an el cheapo? Iv'e seen new batteries that were crap, no power under load. A good starter, cables, etc are not going to perform with a junk battery. Do you have a good hot battery you can pull from another vehicle and try?


I can bring my load tester home from work tomorrow at lunch and load test the battery to see if it holds a load.


It wasn't a cheapo, I went to batteries plus to get it and it cost me $160 but its a Duracell Group 29N battery.


Every other battery I found that was group 29N was a deep cycle marine battery with the four terminals on the top that wouldn't allow use of the original battery cables.
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedster9 View Post
Sounds good. A good battery, starter and charging system will go a long way to keeping you from aggravation. On the charger, an hour doesn't really mean anything unless there's some indication on the charger itself. It may take several hours or overnight, easy.


When I put it on the medium 25Amp setting the needle on the charger started off at 30 Amps and slowly dropped to 20 Amps. That was when I went to the trickle charge setting cause I didn't want to leave it on the medium setting for the rest of the hour. After about 5 minutes the needle dropped down enough to indicate the battery was pretty much charged.
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1963 Chevrolet Belair - 283 V8 4V - Powerglide
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  #71  
Old 01-23-2015, 09:11 AM
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That's what a battery charger does, the current starts out high and decreases and voltage starts out low and increases? 2.5 amps is just a trickle.

Measure the voltage at the terminals after one hour, you should see 14.5+ at 80F, higher #s at colder temperatures. The end point current will be just a fraction of an amp. Then you know it's charged.
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Old 01-23-2015, 09:11 AM
 
 
 
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