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  #196  
Old 04-28-2016, 12:10 PM
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Well I posted on the Y blocks forever forum and a guy here in Tx has the parts I am missing the filter spring and the mesh filter as well as the brass tee for the vacuum lines. Nice that he didn't want to charge for them going to have to send him a check anyways.
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~Vehicles Owned~
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 4V - Ford-O-Matic
1963 Chevrolet Belair - 283 V8 4V - Powerglide
1978 Mercury Cougar XR7 - 351W V8 2V - FMX
1982 Ford F150 - 302 V8 2V - C6
1988 Ford Escort GT - 1.9L EFI HO - 5spd Manual (Found a good home)
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  #197  
Old 04-30-2016, 01:26 PM
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Well my carb kit arrived today. Shocked me as I just ordered it Thursday. Anyways I got the kit, the secondary diaphragm, brass mesh filter, and a DVD. The guy I purchased this kit from was not who I got the last kit from nor the guy I got the fuel pump kit from as he doesn't sell carb kits.

I got this kit from Mikes Carburetor Parts and the DVD is the full rebuild of a Holley 4000, he got 7 parts up on youtube but it doesn't show everything.

All I need to do now is get a reman dist from one of the restoration places I buy from, get a Petronix points elimination kit, get the Dual can advance from Larrys Tbird as hes the only one that has them on hand rebuilt, then a thermostat housing and gasket, intake gasket set, fuel pump to carb lines both fuel and vacuum and lastly the two vacuum lines to the vacuum advance and I should be set to do this job. I just hope the dist comes out with no problem, I had a car sat about as long and the dist wouldn't turn nor wouldn't come out but it was a Mallory dist through a holley aluminum manifold it got stuck to. Shouldn't be a problem in this case though being all stock.

Only thing I noticed is this carb kit comes with a holley style power valve. I don't remember seeing this style of power valve on a Holley 4000 carb. I know theres an economizer valve. But I will have to watch the DVD a few times to ensure no problems on this rebuild. Hate to rebuild it and have a fuel leak.



~Update~

Well I checked timing with my new adjustable timing light just now. I honestly do not know if the marks have slipped or not. I cleaned the balancer to find the marks and it didn't feel loose. I also am inclined to believe they are correct as the engine starts too easy to have the timing way off.

Now with that said at idle when hot in park with the vacuum line hooked up to the dist port on the Autolite 2100 carb I am getting an astonishing 0* advance. Applying throttle and going by ear I would say the total advance quickly hit the 30* mark around 1500 RPM. This is no doubt due to the fact that the dist and advance is ment to operate off lower vacuum signal than what this carb is supplying.

But now the question is if the marks did not slip and the engine really does have initial timing set up around 0* would the engine start quick and easy still. If so that could be where my driveability and backfire through the carb came in when I floored the throttle from a stand still. 0* advance is not enough but was probably done to tone the total advance down since different vacuum signal is being used.

So looks like I just added to my list a new balancer I need to find the part number I believe Dampner doctor was who I was going to go through for a rebuilt balancer. Down side is his site is horrible to navigate. But it looks likes rebuilt balancer, rebuilt dist, petronix, Felpro intake manifold gasket set, thermostat housing, thermostat gasket and the kicker is if I am running 0* initial when I put it to 11* initial the engine will not only make more power but it will also run cooler so I will purchase a 180* thermostat to swap in just incase. So looks like I am still about a month or so away from doing this job as I have to source a lot of parts and have to obtain all the parts to do the job all at once.
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~Vehicles Owned~
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 4V - Ford-O-Matic
1963 Chevrolet Belair - 283 V8 4V - Powerglide
1978 Mercury Cougar XR7 - 351W V8 2V - FMX
1982 Ford F150 - 302 V8 2V - C6
1988 Ford Escort GT - 1.9L EFI HO - 5spd Manual (Found a good home)
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  #198  
Old 05-02-2016, 01:13 PM
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Hey Rusty,

I have a (single groove) damper that I had rebuilt by the "Doctor" for my 292.

I subsequently went to a 2 groove damper (that I need to send to him....[of course!!])

Anyway, If you want it, PM me. It is for a truck application so I am not sure if it would be ok for a sedan or not.

Oh, and also, I'll be using either a 180 or a 190 T-stat in my truck. I want to see around 10 PSI on the radiator

The guy that rebuilt my radiator (and also installed a 4-row core in my originally 3-row rad) told me that I would be "OK" with a 13psi cap

I am hoping for about 10 PSI or so. (I'll have a gage on the cooling system) Dow Chemical indicates that a 50/50 mixture of glycol will produce around 480mm hg vapor pressure at 90C (9.3psi @ approx 195F)


I also had a Load-O-Matic dist and carb when I had the 239 in my truck. I got rid of it for all the reasons mentioned.

I have a (new) 390 Holley 4bbl now.

Cheers,


Rick
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1955 F-600/292Y/E4OD // D I S C L A I M E R: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I RAN OVER INTENTIONALLY!!!
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  #199  
Old 06-30-2016, 09:18 AM
cliff tate cliff tate is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty_S View Post
Little update, I havent been messing with the engine much lately due to being tired after work.

But since I was off today I put some more MMO, seven pumps in each cylinder and I was rocking the engine back and forth hammering the pistons basically. I finally got the engine to rotate in reverse but still gets up to the point that it was at and locks up again.

Im thinking the MMO softened up the rust below so I think I will rotate the engine backwards till its completly free. If that doesnt work then I am afraid I might have a hung valve.

So far the mark on the pulley I can rotate it backwards from just past 12 o'clock all the way to 9 o'clock before it locks up again. If I rotate it back foward it goes from 9 o'clock all the way to just past 12 and locks up again. So as of now I went from 4mm worth of play to a good quarter turn of the crank.



I also looked in my '56 shop manual and found the dampner bolt is 85 - 95 ft lbs. Think I will hook up my trq wrench to the 13/16 socket and trq it down to 85 ft lbs maybe it will break past the rust that has it locked up, either that or bend something in the valve train if something has it locked up on the top end.



~update 2~

Well the engine is unfrozen. I went through five revolutions of the crank and no problems, down side is theres two or three areas where the crank gets a little hard to turn and I have to rock it to get it past it. I think i will do this for a few more days before I even attempt to crank it over with the starter, hate to lock the engine up on this stiff spot and break teeth on the flywheel. Rather be cautious since so far nothing seems to be a problem.
i would sugest removeing rockers,manualy spray you rsolution on each valve stem ys ar netorious for valves sticking as lube to rockers is poor at best then take a piece of hard wood and tap each valve macking sure all are seated, save bending a vave. also pull the dist and pre lube the engine with suitable drive (old dist shaft with gear removed)ccwise is the direction to turn the pump. good luck. sounds like you are on the right track to save her
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  #200  
Old 07-22-2016, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HT32BSX115 View Post
Hey Rusty,

I have a (single groove) damper that I had rebuilt by the "Doctor" for my 292.

I subsequently went to a 2 groove damper (that I need to send to him....[of course!!])

Anyway, If you want it, PM me. It is for a truck application so I am not sure if it would be ok for a sedan or not.

Oh, and also, I'll be using either a 180 or a 190 T-stat in my truck. I want to see around 10 PSI on the radiator

The guy that rebuilt my radiator (and also installed a 4-row core in my originally 3-row rad) told me that I would be "OK" with a 13psi cap

I am hoping for about 10 PSI or so. (I'll have a gage on the cooling system) Dow Chemical indicates that a 50/50 mixture of glycol will produce around 480mm hg vapor pressure at 90C (9.3psi @ approx 195F)


I also had a Load-O-Matic dist and carb when I had the 239 in my truck. I got rid of it for all the reasons mentioned.

I have a (new) 390 Holley 4bbl now.

Cheers,


Rick
I have to check I don't know if the truck and car balancers were the same. I honestly don't see why not but I do know the heavier trucks such as the F600s did have a Lincoln style Y block that didn't share many parts with the Ford version.

Aside from that I haven't had a chance to buy any of the stuff to make the swap. Havent even rebuilt my Holley 4000 yet just been too busy with other stuff.

I did how ever pulled the driveshaft today to remove the yoke and see what I can do as the car was doing fine then all of a sudden on the start of week 2 of not running the car it leaked out what looked like 3 quarts of trans fluid. Well I took the yoke off and I see why I had the leak, the plug had popped off years ago as theres not enough rust or corrosion on the plug seating lip to tell me it rusted out I think it just popped out over time. Well I spent a good hour at Napa trying to find a plug looked at cam plugs down to core plugs. nothing would fit right as this measures out to be almost 37mm.

Well I checked back with Tee-Bird Inc who said they don't have any on hand for the passenger cars as the company that was making them went out of business. They still don't have any. I hit up Macs they have one for a T-bird which I looked it up in my parts and illustration guide the T-bird used B5C-4841-A yoke which is 5 11/32" long and 3 1/2" yoke width at the U-joint. The car uses B5A-4841-A which has the same specs except is 5 1/4" long and has a 3 3/32" yoke width at the U-joint. So I could not use it plus it was $220. I did a search for the part number and found a guy in Oklahoma, Shoebox Central and he had them as the yoke for cars fits '49/'56 by my parts guide and he verified his yokes '49-'55 listed on website fits up to '56. So I bought a new yoke from him for $81.69 with UPS 3 day shipping.

So I should have my transmission leak fixed by next week end. Just need to get more work done at work get more money coming in so I can actually start buying the other stuff I need such as a load o matic distributor to replace mine along with a dual can vacuum advance and the metal hard lines and fuel lines. Then I can go ahead and do my swap back to the original 4bbl and hopefully she will run properly then.
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~Vehicles Owned~
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 4V - Ford-O-Matic
1963 Chevrolet Belair - 283 V8 4V - Powerglide
1978 Mercury Cougar XR7 - 351W V8 2V - FMX
1982 Ford F150 - 302 V8 2V - C6
1988 Ford Escort GT - 1.9L EFI HO - 5spd Manual (Found a good home)
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  #201  
Old 07-23-2016, 01:50 PM
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HT32BSX115 HT32BSX115 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty_S View Post
I have to check I don't know if the truck and car balancers were the same. I honestly don't see why not but I do know the heavier trucks such as the F600s did have a Lincoln style Y block that didn't share many parts with the Ford version.
You're right for trucks that had the Lincoln Y's. My 55 came with a 223 cu-in 6 and the engine (and [Doctor] damper) I have now came out of a 59 F-100.

It probably would have been a better choice I suppose over the 2-groove damper I got from Dennis Carpenter, but I already had a single groove pulley to bolt to it to give me the 3 grooves I want............

I actually could use the damper if I bolted a 2-groove pulley to it (available from Mummert now.......I didn't know he had 2 groove pulleys that bolt to the standard single groove dampers.


Either way, if it can work for you, drop me a PM. it's just sitting here not getting used.
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1955 F-600/292Y/E4OD // D I S C L A I M E R: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I RAN OVER INTENTIONALLY!!!
2005 6.0L F-350 4x4
...There's NOTHING like a good oil thread!.....And YES. This post was created using Open Source (& free) Linux!
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