How Much Is a Rust-free, '95 F-150 "Roller" Worth?
#1
08-17-2014, 09:54 AM
How Much Is a Rust-free, '95 F-150 "Roller" Worth?
’95 F-150: Rust Free, But With Problems—Should I Buy?
Hi all,
WARNING--LONG POST.
Standard restrictions apply (i.e., if you don't want to take the time to read it, fine, but please don't take the time to b**** about how long it is. Since you're already smarter than me, you can kindly skip it, without comment, right?)
If anyone is masochistic enough to read this post and comment, I would be most appreciative.
Unfortunately, I have no pics to show you, as I can't locate the SD card I put them on.
The "Short" Version re: a 1995 F-150 “Shorty” (RCSB).
Positives About This 1995 RCSB:
The 300/4.9: I Simply LOVE this engine!
The 5-Speed Manual--I really like the M5OD/4.9 combo, with 3.55 gears. (Unfortunately, the VIN decoder says the rear is a 2.73--more on that later).
This truck has ZERO RUST.
Negatives:
Ultimately, I WANT a LONG BOX, but may be buying an older RAM 3500 Dually, anyway, so this could be a “Shop Truck,” except I’d HATE to be
the one to run it in salt.
Asking Price: $1,200.
The Vehicle FACTS:
1995 RCSB, 2x4, 4.9, 5-Speed Manual.
NO RUST—EVER
It Was a Florida Truck Until 2011
(More on this below, but this is the PRIME REASON I’m even torturing myself, and you all, with this—because I’m “in recovery,” after having bought a snowmobiler’s ‘96/’97 F-250, 4x4, H.D. SCLB, 460, ZF 5-speed, thinking I would "remediate" it's undercarriage rust. Due to some injuries, I did not, and will not, be attempting the impossible. In truth, I was "too in love with” that F-250 when I purchased it, and now I have “PPRTD”, i.e. (“Post-Purchase Rusty-Truck Disorder).
I’ve realized that just because I CAN weld and do bodywork, does NOT mean I NEED to do (more) body work. (I actually enjoy bodywork, in moderation, and I love welding, but I am SICK TO DEATH of working on, and owning, vehicles that LITERALLY DISINTIGRATE long before they wear out!).
Mileage on this 1995 F-150 Shorty: just under 160,000.
(Since it's the 4.9, the mileage doesn't bother me--assuming it sounds and runs right).
The Paint is Terrible:
The poor-quality, similar-color respray over the poor-quality, original Ford paint is COMPLETELY FLAT. Which is okay with me, as I "don't do shiny” well, and believe I am ready for my first true "Rat Rod.”
MAJOR Oil Leak:
Owner claims this is due to a leaking flare fitting, on Power Steering pump. The leak IS up high, at front of engine, but there is SO much oil, it could also be masking a front or rear main seal leak, timing cover leak, etc….
Missing, "Mid-ship" Gas Tank
I saw incorrect rubber tubing going to the existing tank, which thankfully, looks so good it's either replaced, or I don't know what non-rusty trucks look like anymore.
Trim Level:
Base—crank windows, manual everything. But remarkably, it has A/C! (See below).
(Allegedly) Working A/C!
This seems incredible to me, and is possibly only working because he "gassed it,” for sale (which he would never admit), but A/C is important to me, and I almost never see it on what was otherwise a "stripper" truck, here in the Northeast.
As I have yet to even hear this truck run, however (due to the owner never having a good battery in it, when I stop in), I can’t comment on how it runs, what works, or how it drives. I have a test drive scheduled for tomorrow, Monday, 8/17/14—so any responses I get before that will be MOST welcome!
Carfax “Facts:”
Eight (8!) Owners, longest two for approx. 5+ years each. Vehicle lived in Florida from new, in 1995, until 2011, when it came to the Northeast. Owner’s 4 and 5 owned it for only 2 months, and 7 months, respectively, between 8/2010 and 5/2011. Others owned it for at least a year, plus, each.
Owner #7 (the one before the current owner/seller) owned it for 2 years+ (from 6/2012 - 6/2014, in the Northeast, which I found encouraging. IOW, one would think it wasn't being "passed along as a problem child" if the owner before this current owner had it for 2 years.... And again, the current seller got the truck in a trade, for tranny work he did for Owner #7--or so he claims.
No Major “No-No’s” in Carfax Whatsoever (like Totals, Airbags, Accident, Structural, etc….).
Interior: "Burnt" to a CRISP by the Florida Heat.
EVERYTHING that is “upholstery” would need to be replaced. All upholstered/plastic stuff is "cooked"/dried out. The dashpad looks like the surface of Mars, and the seat foam has crystallized and is “crunchy.” (I would do my standard “Duct tape the rips, and get a cheerful seat cover” routine, and hope to find a donor interior, with the 40/20/40 seat, and door pockets).
Can anyone "ballpark" the cost of a complete, RC interior, out of a good-condition Ford F-Series? I'd like the deluxe 40/20/40 seat, and map pockets, so maybe I'd need to pull from more than one truck?
Electrical:
Owner claims he replaced alternator, and all is well. I have yet to hear it run, let alone drive it. The owner says this is been fixed.
My multimeter will (hopefully) tell the tale (I will check for a drain, while turned “Off,” as well).
Little Stuff:
Tailgate latches need to be manually reset, to latch.
Driver’s door drops 3/16” upon opening. Probably needs new/used hinges, as I think it’s past the “pin replacement” stage. BTDT.
Headlights are yellow, and flat, of course.
Why I Like This Truck:
There is ZERO RUST on this truck—period—full stop.
(That's like having a "NEW" truck for me, but with the best engine Ford ever made--no offense to the V-8 fans!).
And I LOVE the 4.9/5-speed combo--and manual trannies, IME, make up less than 10% of the 8/9th Generation Fleet, and 4.9's with manuals would be a smaller subset of that, obviously. In short, I ALMOST NEVER see the 4.9/M5OD combo anymore, and I miss it, having enjoyed one for 10 years. I miss it--BAD!
The "weep holes" in the bottom of the doors are just as Ford made them, and have never been rusted, or screwed with.
Where the door skin wraps under the bottom of the door frame, right near the "weep holes," there is ZERO RUST.
If you lay on the ground and look up at the bottom of the box, where the various panels were spot welded together, leaving those ľ” tall, double-edged “flanges,” there is NO RUST--no BLISTERING, no BULGING, no CRUD-- in short, NOTHING that we see here in the Northeast, on a truck this age.
The brake lines are actually GRAY in color!
Whereas the "backing plates/dust shields" on the front disc brakes of my ’97, 2nd Owner, F-250 H.D. are COMPLETELY RUSTED AWAY; the same parts on this truck are completely intact, and not Rusty in the least.
The frame on this 1995 F-150 appears to have some sort of factory coating on it, in places, that is a bit dull-grayish in hue, and there is NO SCALE on the places of the frame that aren’t gray.
If you removed the rear-most leaf spring shackles, and cleaned and painted them, you could sell them as NOS. IOW, never any rust. On my '97, I do not dare load the bed fully, for fear they'll let go.
The only dent I saw was less than palm-sized, about 1/2 inch deep, up on the B-pillar/side of the cab, on the passenger side. In other words, not a big deal.
Again, I don't LIKE "shiny." "Shiny" makes me anxious, about door dings, bird ****, dents, etc.
What I DO like is NO RUST. I actually find it THERAPEUTIC to lay under this truck, and look up, and see the truck as Ford built it, 20 years ago. It's...calming, and takes me to my "happy place."
I also like the whole "Rat Rod" movement, and feel this could be my entrée into this end of our hobby. I’m tired of putting time, money and energy into trucks that DISINTERGRATE waaaay before they wear out.
My First Question: What is the Value of a RUST-FREE, 1995 F-150, with HORRIBLY-Flat, non-factory repaint?
I asked that as a worst-case scenario, i.e., let's say I buy this truck, for the $1,200 asking price, and it immediately throws a rod, or suffers some other catastrophic failure.
Given the current craze for “shop trucks,” “rat rods” and “Shorties,” in general:
a) What is the likelihood I could (easily) get my $1,200. back?
b) Could I actually make any money? (Assuming I put zero dollars in before it failed, catastrophically).
My Second Question: Is This VIN Decoder Accurate for Axle Ratios?
VIN Decoder - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
It says the following, about this truck:
Summary Style & Trim Equipment Colors Tech Specs
Mechanical & Powertrain
2.73 axle ratio
Rear wheel drive
72 amp-hour (650 CCA) maintenance-free battery
95 amp alternator
3400# capacity twin I-beam front axle
3800# capacity semi-floating rear axle
HD gas-pressurized shock absorbers
Pwr steering
The 2.73 ratio is too high, in my experience, for any serious towing, with the 4.9, which LOVES the 3.55 gears, in combination with the M5OD trans. This truck has a receiver hitch on it and I might want to do some towing.
Also, I thought I saw a tag on the pumpkin which said “3.55,” so maybe it’s been switched to a 3.55:1?
a) Is there any way to I.D. the actual ratio of a (possibly changed-out) axle, if there’s no tag on it?
Can anyone "ballpark" the price of a junkyard, '95 3.55 rear axle for me, possibly?
I Have "Trust Issues" With This Seller:
However, I have "trust issues" with this gentleman, as he initially agreed to let me take this truck, on his plates, approximately 12 miles, to a well-respected repair shop owned by my friend and former coworker. However, the owner later reneged on this deal, and refused to even let me articulate that he had apparently changed his mind. The language barrier isn’t helping matters, as my “Spanglish” sucks way worse than his English sucks.
He said: "You look at the truck 10 times--bring the money, or I find somebody else."
REALITY CHECK: I might have stopped in, 6 times, since January, often at night, and due to him never having a good battery in it, or a working alternator, I have never even heard this vehicle run. (He claims it runs now, and alternator is replaced, and charging).
I stated to him: "but I have never heard it RUUUNNNN….”.
His response: “Oh.”
Me: “Do I at least get a test drive?”
Him: “Yeah--you can go for a test drive, with me or my employee, UP HERE--not take it to your mechanic-friend."
---------------------------------------------------
For reference, here are the anticipated costs of what my friend and I could come up with, with him not having seen the truck, and me not having driven the truck, or even heard it run yet. (They may seem high, but my friend biased them toward the worst case, for my benefit, and we are in the "tri-$tate area).
My Worst-Case, Anticipated Repair Costs:
Unfortunately, due to injuries, I would have to pay for this work, some of which I would have done myself, if uninjured. The following rough/high estimates were given to my by my friend/former co-worker, who currently owns his own (successful) shop. Labor rate is competitive here, at $95./hr.
Front Crankshaft Seal: Parts and Labor (Not counted here, if leak is rear main, obviously): $175.
Rear Crankshaft Seal: Parts and Labor: $500.
Of course, at that point, I would do an entire clutch job, which I cannot currently do myself, due to injuries, which would add another $600-700.
So, total if oil is from rear main seal, including new master and slave for clutch: approx. $1,225.
Missing "Midship" Gas Tank: Part: $235. (complete with pump,
straps and sending unit, INCLUDING SHIPPING, as Warren561 generously informed me of): $235.
Parts and Labor to “Unbubba” the current tank plumbing, and get switch working again: $300.
Upper and Lower Ball Joints, Right and Left, Parts and Labor: $600.
Good “Twin I-Beam” Alignment: $200.
Tires $300.+?
_________
Total, Worst-case Repairs: $3,360
Purchase Price: $1,200.
Used Interior Parts, at some future date: $500.?
Incidentals? $300.?
Stereo: 500.?
Cheap, Aluminum Cap: $250.?
Grand Total, for non-shiny, non-rusty, 160K mile truck: ~$6,110.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
So, hopefully it won’t need all of the anticipated repairs, and I can check the ball joints, charging system and hopefully rule out any MAIN SEAL LEAKS, before I purchase.
But, back to my basic question, what is a rust-free “Shorty Roller” worth, should this truck, in fact, have major mechanical problems?
Thanks much, to any that are still awake.
Sincerely,
BigSix1
Hi all,
WARNING--LONG POST.
Standard restrictions apply (i.e., if you don't want to take the time to read it, fine, but please don't take the time to b**** about how long it is. Since you're already smarter than me, you can kindly skip it, without comment, right?)
If anyone is masochistic enough to read this post and comment, I would be most appreciative.
Unfortunately, I have no pics to show you, as I can't locate the SD card I put them on.
The "Short" Version re: a 1995 F-150 “Shorty” (RCSB).
Positives About This 1995 RCSB:
The 300/4.9: I Simply LOVE this engine!
The 5-Speed Manual--I really like the M5OD/4.9 combo, with 3.55 gears. (Unfortunately, the VIN decoder says the rear is a 2.73--more on that later).
This truck has ZERO RUST.
Negatives:
Ultimately, I WANT a LONG BOX, but may be buying an older RAM 3500 Dually, anyway, so this could be a “Shop Truck,” except I’d HATE to be
the one to run it in salt.
Asking Price: $1,200.
The Vehicle FACTS:
1995 RCSB, 2x4, 4.9, 5-Speed Manual.
NO RUST—EVER
It Was a Florida Truck Until 2011
(More on this below, but this is the PRIME REASON I’m even torturing myself, and you all, with this—because I’m “in recovery,” after having bought a snowmobiler’s ‘96/’97 F-250, 4x4, H.D. SCLB, 460, ZF 5-speed, thinking I would "remediate" it's undercarriage rust. Due to some injuries, I did not, and will not, be attempting the impossible. In truth, I was "too in love with” that F-250 when I purchased it, and now I have “PPRTD”, i.e. (“Post-Purchase Rusty-Truck Disorder).
I’ve realized that just because I CAN weld and do bodywork, does NOT mean I NEED to do (more) body work. (I actually enjoy bodywork, in moderation, and I love welding, but I am SICK TO DEATH of working on, and owning, vehicles that LITERALLY DISINTIGRATE long before they wear out!).
Mileage on this 1995 F-150 Shorty: just under 160,000.
(Since it's the 4.9, the mileage doesn't bother me--assuming it sounds and runs right).
The Paint is Terrible:
The poor-quality, similar-color respray over the poor-quality, original Ford paint is COMPLETELY FLAT. Which is okay with me, as I "don't do shiny” well, and believe I am ready for my first true "Rat Rod.”
MAJOR Oil Leak:
Owner claims this is due to a leaking flare fitting, on Power Steering pump. The leak IS up high, at front of engine, but there is SO much oil, it could also be masking a front or rear main seal leak, timing cover leak, etc….
Missing, "Mid-ship" Gas Tank
I saw incorrect rubber tubing going to the existing tank, which thankfully, looks so good it's either replaced, or I don't know what non-rusty trucks look like anymore.
Trim Level:
Base—crank windows, manual everything. But remarkably, it has A/C! (See below).
(Allegedly) Working A/C!
This seems incredible to me, and is possibly only working because he "gassed it,” for sale (which he would never admit), but A/C is important to me, and I almost never see it on what was otherwise a "stripper" truck, here in the Northeast.
As I have yet to even hear this truck run, however (due to the owner never having a good battery in it, when I stop in), I can’t comment on how it runs, what works, or how it drives. I have a test drive scheduled for tomorrow, Monday, 8/17/14—so any responses I get before that will be MOST welcome!
Carfax “Facts:”
Eight (8!) Owners, longest two for approx. 5+ years each. Vehicle lived in Florida from new, in 1995, until 2011, when it came to the Northeast. Owner’s 4 and 5 owned it for only 2 months, and 7 months, respectively, between 8/2010 and 5/2011. Others owned it for at least a year, plus, each.
Owner #7 (the one before the current owner/seller) owned it for 2 years+ (from 6/2012 - 6/2014, in the Northeast, which I found encouraging. IOW, one would think it wasn't being "passed along as a problem child" if the owner before this current owner had it for 2 years.... And again, the current seller got the truck in a trade, for tranny work he did for Owner #7--or so he claims.
No Major “No-No’s” in Carfax Whatsoever (like Totals, Airbags, Accident, Structural, etc….).
Interior: "Burnt" to a CRISP by the Florida Heat.
EVERYTHING that is “upholstery” would need to be replaced. All upholstered/plastic stuff is "cooked"/dried out. The dashpad looks like the surface of Mars, and the seat foam has crystallized and is “crunchy.” (I would do my standard “Duct tape the rips, and get a cheerful seat cover” routine, and hope to find a donor interior, with the 40/20/40 seat, and door pockets).
Can anyone "ballpark" the cost of a complete, RC interior, out of a good-condition Ford F-Series? I'd like the deluxe 40/20/40 seat, and map pockets, so maybe I'd need to pull from more than one truck?
Electrical:
Owner claims he replaced alternator, and all is well. I have yet to hear it run, let alone drive it. The owner says this is been fixed.
My multimeter will (hopefully) tell the tale (I will check for a drain, while turned “Off,” as well).
Little Stuff:
Tailgate latches need to be manually reset, to latch.
Driver’s door drops 3/16” upon opening. Probably needs new/used hinges, as I think it’s past the “pin replacement” stage. BTDT.
Headlights are yellow, and flat, of course.
Why I Like This Truck:
There is ZERO RUST on this truck—period—full stop.
(That's like having a "NEW" truck for me, but with the best engine Ford ever made--no offense to the V-8 fans!).
And I LOVE the 4.9/5-speed combo--and manual trannies, IME, make up less than 10% of the 8/9th Generation Fleet, and 4.9's with manuals would be a smaller subset of that, obviously. In short, I ALMOST NEVER see the 4.9/M5OD combo anymore, and I miss it, having enjoyed one for 10 years. I miss it--BAD!
The "weep holes" in the bottom of the doors are just as Ford made them, and have never been rusted, or screwed with.
Where the door skin wraps under the bottom of the door frame, right near the "weep holes," there is ZERO RUST.
If you lay on the ground and look up at the bottom of the box, where the various panels were spot welded together, leaving those ľ” tall, double-edged “flanges,” there is NO RUST--no BLISTERING, no BULGING, no CRUD-- in short, NOTHING that we see here in the Northeast, on a truck this age.
The brake lines are actually GRAY in color!
Whereas the "backing plates/dust shields" on the front disc brakes of my ’97, 2nd Owner, F-250 H.D. are COMPLETELY RUSTED AWAY; the same parts on this truck are completely intact, and not Rusty in the least.
The frame on this 1995 F-150 appears to have some sort of factory coating on it, in places, that is a bit dull-grayish in hue, and there is NO SCALE on the places of the frame that aren’t gray.
If you removed the rear-most leaf spring shackles, and cleaned and painted them, you could sell them as NOS. IOW, never any rust. On my '97, I do not dare load the bed fully, for fear they'll let go.
The only dent I saw was less than palm-sized, about 1/2 inch deep, up on the B-pillar/side of the cab, on the passenger side. In other words, not a big deal.
Again, I don't LIKE "shiny." "Shiny" makes me anxious, about door dings, bird ****, dents, etc.
What I DO like is NO RUST. I actually find it THERAPEUTIC to lay under this truck, and look up, and see the truck as Ford built it, 20 years ago. It's...calming, and takes me to my "happy place."
I also like the whole "Rat Rod" movement, and feel this could be my entrée into this end of our hobby. I’m tired of putting time, money and energy into trucks that DISINTERGRATE waaaay before they wear out.
My First Question: What is the Value of a RUST-FREE, 1995 F-150, with HORRIBLY-Flat, non-factory repaint?
I asked that as a worst-case scenario, i.e., let's say I buy this truck, for the $1,200 asking price, and it immediately throws a rod, or suffers some other catastrophic failure.
Given the current craze for “shop trucks,” “rat rods” and “Shorties,” in general:
a) What is the likelihood I could (easily) get my $1,200. back?
b) Could I actually make any money? (Assuming I put zero dollars in before it failed, catastrophically).
My Second Question: Is This VIN Decoder Accurate for Axle Ratios?
VIN Decoder - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
It says the following, about this truck:
Summary Style & Trim Equipment Colors Tech Specs
Mechanical & Powertrain
2.73 axle ratio
Rear wheel drive
72 amp-hour (650 CCA) maintenance-free battery
95 amp alternator
3400# capacity twin I-beam front axle
3800# capacity semi-floating rear axle
HD gas-pressurized shock absorbers
Pwr steering
The 2.73 ratio is too high, in my experience, for any serious towing, with the 4.9, which LOVES the 3.55 gears, in combination with the M5OD trans. This truck has a receiver hitch on it and I might want to do some towing.
Also, I thought I saw a tag on the pumpkin which said “3.55,” so maybe it’s been switched to a 3.55:1?
a) Is there any way to I.D. the actual ratio of a (possibly changed-out) axle, if there’s no tag on it?
Can anyone "ballpark" the price of a junkyard, '95 3.55 rear axle for me, possibly?
I Have "Trust Issues" With This Seller:
However, I have "trust issues" with this gentleman, as he initially agreed to let me take this truck, on his plates, approximately 12 miles, to a well-respected repair shop owned by my friend and former coworker. However, the owner later reneged on this deal, and refused to even let me articulate that he had apparently changed his mind. The language barrier isn’t helping matters, as my “Spanglish” sucks way worse than his English sucks.
He said: "You look at the truck 10 times--bring the money, or I find somebody else."
REALITY CHECK: I might have stopped in, 6 times, since January, often at night, and due to him never having a good battery in it, or a working alternator, I have never even heard this vehicle run. (He claims it runs now, and alternator is replaced, and charging).
I stated to him: "but I have never heard it RUUUNNNN….”.
His response: “Oh.”
Me: “Do I at least get a test drive?”
Him: “Yeah--you can go for a test drive, with me or my employee, UP HERE--not take it to your mechanic-friend."
---------------------------------------------------
For reference, here are the anticipated costs of what my friend and I could come up with, with him not having seen the truck, and me not having driven the truck, or even heard it run yet. (They may seem high, but my friend biased them toward the worst case, for my benefit, and we are in the "tri-$tate area).
My Worst-Case, Anticipated Repair Costs:
Unfortunately, due to injuries, I would have to pay for this work, some of which I would have done myself, if uninjured. The following rough/high estimates were given to my by my friend/former co-worker, who currently owns his own (successful) shop. Labor rate is competitive here, at $95./hr.
Front Crankshaft Seal: Parts and Labor (Not counted here, if leak is rear main, obviously): $175.
Rear Crankshaft Seal: Parts and Labor: $500.
Of course, at that point, I would do an entire clutch job, which I cannot currently do myself, due to injuries, which would add another $600-700.
So, total if oil is from rear main seal, including new master and slave for clutch: approx. $1,225.
Missing "Midship" Gas Tank: Part: $235. (complete with pump,
straps and sending unit, INCLUDING SHIPPING, as Warren561 generously informed me of): $235.
Parts and Labor to “Unbubba” the current tank plumbing, and get switch working again: $300.
Upper and Lower Ball Joints, Right and Left, Parts and Labor: $600.
Good “Twin I-Beam” Alignment: $200.
Tires $300.+?
_________
Total, Worst-case Repairs: $3,360
Purchase Price: $1,200.
Used Interior Parts, at some future date: $500.?
Incidentals? $300.?
Stereo: 500.?
Cheap, Aluminum Cap: $250.?
Grand Total, for non-shiny, non-rusty, 160K mile truck: ~$6,110.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
So, hopefully it won’t need all of the anticipated repairs, and I can check the ball joints, charging system and hopefully rule out any MAIN SEAL LEAKS, before I purchase.
But, back to my basic question, what is a rust-free “Shorty Roller” worth, should this truck, in fact, have major mechanical problems?
Thanks much, to any that are still awake.
Sincerely,
BigSix1
#2
08-17-2014, 10:09 AM
Elder User
Join Date: Aug 2002
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#3
08-17-2014, 10:30 AM
If you live in the rust belt..or not.. and it is truly rust free I'd buy it for the OEM body parts who cares about the rest of it.
Selling anything over and beyond the body would be an added bonus, and if not its weight across the scale.
Not sure where you live but if near me I'd be interested in pretty much everything forward of the box, to bad its a short box......
I'd work too get em down on asking price but even if wouldn't budge, everyone does though at least a little bit, the 1200 wouldn't scare me off. That is if it is truly rust free.
Selling anything over and beyond the body would be an added bonus, and if not its weight across the scale.
Not sure where you live but if near me I'd be interested in pretty much everything forward of the box, to bad its a short box......
I'd work too get em down on asking price but even if wouldn't budge, everyone does though at least a little bit, the 1200 wouldn't scare me off. That is if it is truly rust free.
#5
08-17-2014, 12:39 PM
#7
08-17-2014, 01:38 PM
If he refuses to let a shop look at it, walk away as it isn't worth your time. He is clearly hiding something.
And as for your "worst case" cost, you could get a truck out here that is rust free and running flawlessly for less leaving you money for the plane ticket and the gas for the trip back...
Here are some examples:
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/4620847223.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/4619902704.html
Or probably a best deal I have seen lately around here:
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/4613456338.html
And as for your "worst case" cost, you could get a truck out here that is rust free and running flawlessly for less leaving you money for the plane ticket and the gas for the trip back...
Here are some examples:
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/4620847223.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/4619902704.html
Or probably a best deal I have seen lately around here:
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/4613456338.html
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#8
08-17-2014, 01:53 PM
Fleet Owner
I am not going to read all that.
But my response to your heading question is 4-800
EDIT: Had time to read your life story.
WALK AWAY, AND FAST.
If he will not let a mechanic look at and 2 of the recent previous owners dumped it after owing it for 2 months, there is something wrong with it
WALK AWAY
But my response to your heading question is 4-800
EDIT: Had time to read your life story.
WALK AWAY, AND FAST.
If he will not let a mechanic look at and 2 of the recent previous owners dumped it after owing it for 2 months, there is something wrong with it
WALK AWAY
#9
08-17-2014, 04:36 PM
The moment you said you didn't trust the seller that should of spoke to you "REG FLAG"
Maybe up to over $6K for a 95 F150. Wow. You haven't even had it looked at by a mechanic.
My avatar shows a $2700 95 F150 4x4 5.0 5 speed with great interior RUST FREE, that I bought 18 months ago with 138K, 152K now.
So you decide.
Maybe up to over $6K for a 95 F150. Wow. You haven't even had it looked at by a mechanic.
My avatar shows a $2700 95 F150 4x4 5.0 5 speed with great interior RUST FREE, that I bought 18 months ago with 138K, 152K now.
So you decide.
#11
08-18-2014, 07:25 AM
It sounds like the only feature on this truck that is salvagable is the rust free body. Per your life story, under the heading "What I like about this truck", the only thing you list is the rust free body. IMO, $1200 is not worth the money for just a rust free body. As some have already eluded to - you can find rust free bodies in other parts of the country, and they have great running mecahnicals behind them. BTW, 4.9 with the 5 speed M50D are not rare. In fact, it was the standard combo for that year F150's.
#12
08-23-2014, 04:17 AM
I "passed" on this truck, but not before asking a few questions (mostly for my own amusement) which lead me to believe it also probably has an electrical issue which the owner is (knowingly) trying to pass on to the next buyer.
Thank you to all who posted (constructive) information for my benefit. I sincerely appreciate your input and expertise.
Time permitting, I will be back to clear up a couple of misconceptions that become apparent, upon a close reading of a few of the responses.
Also, when my wife's health permits me to travel, I will be taking the good advice of those who recommend seeking (another) TRULY RUST-FREE truck, from dryer climes.
Thanks again.
BigSix1
Thank you to all who posted (constructive) information for my benefit. I sincerely appreciate your input and expertise.
Time permitting, I will be back to clear up a couple of misconceptions that become apparent, upon a close reading of a few of the responses.
Also, when my wife's health permits me to travel, I will be taking the good advice of those who recommend seeking (another) TRULY RUST-FREE truck, from dryer climes.
Thanks again.
BigSix1
#13
08-23-2014, 11:14 AM
Senior User
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JGatz
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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