1968-2013 Full Size VansEconolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550
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Having trouble finding the correct size wrench to fit rear bleeder on the van. 7/16 is too bag, 3/8 is too small.
What else is there.? Access is very tight due to the leaf springs being very close to the rear of the backplate.
Can't slip sockets in there to test for size.
What's with that rainbow font? Annoying to read.........
Try a 10mm as that's the only size between 3/8" and 7/16". If the bleed screws are that difficult to access remove the wheel, support the axle with a jack stand before climbing under there first though.
I'd also apply some Kroil or PB Blaster first---let that soak in a bit. If its been a while since the brakes have been bled those fittings might be seized tight in place. Sadly they'll round off pretty quickly if a good fitting wrench isn't used.
Try it first okay? Don't just start bashing, pushing, pulling and otherwise going at this halfassed. If necessary pull the wheel to avoid causing yourself more problems than a (so far) tough to access bleeder screw.
yEH THE REAR END HAS BEEN ON JACKSTANDS FOR 2 WEEKS ALREADY, ACCESS IS VERY LIMITED DUE TO THE LEAF SPRINGS BEING SO CLOSE TO the brake backplate. Plus the backplate is recessed.
Brakes were all new 2 yrs ago but it sat since then waiting for me to get back to fixing other problems. Only to find the lines have rotted out.
Lines are all done, time to bleed it.
I think I need offset wrenches for this, otherwise I'll pull the cylinder out.
I'll go to NAPA on Monday and see what tool they might have., advance auto and autozone don't have much here.
You were right, 10mm bleeder screw, got it loosened ok, the brake parts are all new 2 yrs ago with less than 100 miles on them. They haven't seen snow or salt yet.
So with all new rear line and new lines from master to ABS unit it was time to test the pedal, engine running ..
no pedal and now theres another pool of fluid, this time the front line blew out where it passes beneath the engine.
At least its easy to get at.
I'm patching in this time, the couplers from hard line to flex hoses look like a bear to deal with so I'll leave em be. Front line only shows rust where it runs across the engine support.
I tried to remove the master cyl to bench bleed it, got the nuts off but the mounting ears are hung up on one side, stuck fast with white corrosion where the steel stud contacts the alum flange of the master. I think its acid because its only 1-2 inches from the battery POS terminal.
Is it possible to bleed the master on the vehicle, I have the bleed kit for it.
All the vids on U tube say to remove it. Thanks for the pointers, big help thus far.
Not sure why the MC needs to be removed first---something has to actuate the piston and to me what better way than with it installed? I'm guessing most times the MC is being replaced so doing it off the vehicle seems to make the most sense---to many but not to me.
Here's a YouTube video I found showing how this can be done on-vehicle:
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