Okay guys here goes I have a 1994 F350 7.5l E4OD Trans 4x4 no mods.
I have recently run into a problem that seems like fuel delivery.

While driving I would be able to take off at lights and pick up speed pretty well but when I start coasting and want to accelerate the motor would bog down like it is starving for air or fuel. When cruising and I floor it the engine wants to die out so I will have to just barely push in on the accelerator (then sometimes let off gradually) to get any increase in speed. Sometimes when cruising and trying to pick up speed I would feather the pedal and that would work for a little but obviously is not how things should be.
I have a good amount of tools and these types of trucks are the only vehicles I have owned I am working on a college budget and time schedule with 3 jobs so I haven't been able to get too much into it.

I have replaced all my vacuum lines thinking it was a vacuum issue (plus the old ones were falling apart and poorly repaired by PO) I have "checked" the FPR let the truck sit over night pulled the vacuum line off turned on the key and no fuel spitting out of there. I am planning to replace the fuel filter tomorrow morning I got an OEM filter for $10. I know it's a lot to read but I would like to get any assistance possible and help others that could have the same issue. Thanks for any help or advice offered.

 

What where the results of the fuel pressure test?

 

I have not run the test yet I'm picking up a pressure tester tomorrow as well after I do the fuel filter (which looks long overdue)

 

You need to run the self-test and see if you have some codes in CM and if everything checks out in the KOEO & KOER tests.
Could be a fuel problem but also sounds like a TPS problem also.

 

I have pulled codes
KOEO:
#327 1. EGR valve position circuit below minimum voltage 2. EVP/EPT circuit below minimum voltage.
#174 HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault rich
KOER:
#173 HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault rich
#327 1. EGR valve position circuit below minimum voltage 2. EVP/EPT circuit below minimum voltage.
#538 invalid cylinder balance test due to throttle movement during test

 

Key on engine off 10psi no cycling. 19psi 2nd cycle of key. 22psi 3rd cycle.
Key on Engine running 32 psi. When throttle body is opened pressure drops towards 26-28psi.

 

#538 operator error, did not snap open throttle during KOER test.
#327 may be a bad wire going to the EVP sensor.
#173 system indicates rich
#174 CHECK FOR FUEL DILUTED ENGINE OIL

Check FPR nipple for fuel.

 

Bad fuel pump or junk in tank if fuel filter is OK.
Pressure should go up when throttle body is opened. If opened fast to WOT the fuel pressure should go to 40psi.

You may also have a bad connection with the fuel pressure gauge.

 

Need do a couple tests find out if its a fault in the FPR, fuel pump or a injector issue.
As pointed out assuming no reason to doubt your readings.

 

SUBFORD: I am planning on replacing the fuel filter when I get off work in about 4 hours. Before when I "checked" the FPR there was no fuel on the nipple where the vacuum line attaches to it. with the key on or off (WAS I SUPPOSED TO CHECK THIS WITH THE VEHICLE RUNNING??)
When I opened quickly to WOT the pressure dropped to around 28psi.

DANR1: I threaded the fuel pressure tester on all the way hand tight no tools and the attachment on the end as well with no leaks when started so unless there was something else I was supposed to do with it all the readings should be accurate with a brand new tester opened 2 minutes before I did the tests.

 

Fuel pressure should increase with engine at idle and the vac line to FPR removed and hose plugged (just put your thumb over its end a moment). Should see a rise from 5 to 10 psi over normal idle pressure reading vac line attached.
Same result KOER if go WOT with the vacuum line attached to the FPR, for brief moment after doing so engine vac drops to zero or very near it. Should see an increase in fp at that moment on your gauge.

First thing I'd do would be to replace the filter I miss read your comments first time around, read it as you had replaced it see now you had not yet.

 

It is a little hard to test the fuel pressure with the engine off unless if you ground pin #6 of the self-test plug and turn on the key. Then that will just give you a static test of about 40psi but will not test the fuel system for flow.

With the engine running you should get about 32-34psi at idle and then it should jump to around 40psi when you goose it.

On a road test it should go to about 40psi on a hill at WOT.

 

DANR1: Yes, fuel filter will be going in the truck in about 3 hours.

At this point with all the things that we know about the truck should I be looking at putting blame on the FPR or the Fuel Pump? From the sounds of what you guys are saying I am leaning toward the fuel pump since the pressure is reading 4-6psi less than it should at idle and about 12psi less than what it should at WOT.

 

Running into issues with removing fuel filter I have the tool to get the lines off and disconnected but the filter looks like it's stock and the tools is all the way in so the clip should be depressed enough to get the lines off but they won't budge. Any tips or suggestions that could help me out now and save some money.

 

You'll need to retest after changing the filter before calling fowl the pump or FPR, make sure low pressure is lack of fuel due to filter limiting flow first.

Far as removing the filter, you must push the filter into the lines fitting before pushing the tool in.
If you push the tool in without doing so you stand a good chance of bending the pins rather than pushing them out of the way. They bite into the flange on the filter pushing the line in first releases that bite allowing tool to push them outward allowing the filter to slide out clean.

Flush the line fittings around the filters tubes with trans fluid liquid wrench WD 40 whatever first cleaning the dirt crust away.

First work so you can rotate the filter in the line (be sure to push the filter into the line while doing so, you must push it in hard won't move much but will a little bit) then and only when you have it broke loose then go for the tool. Again push filter into line and hold, then push the tool in to release it while holding filter firmly pressed into fitting on the end of the line.

Often easier if cut body of filter off get whats left of its tubes out of the lines that way, that's a judgment call too filter body does give more to get a solid grip on. Often fine back end comes right out other froze in solid.

If comes to it you can use needle nose to twist collapsing one side of the tube then pull it out, might damage the retainer springs but not a problem they are easily replaced but do not damage the line itself you'll regret it.

The clips are 10.5mm part number 800-007 for example, put them on the new filter then push the filter into the line. Do not waste time and effort attempting to put the clips in the end of the line first, not easy to do and not necessary.