Backstory - truck overheated and while Razzi and I were replacing the waterpump we decided to hose out the radiator and intercooler. In doing so, the in-radiator 'in' trans line sheared off. Instead of dealing with plumbing a new line, I decided to use a tube cutter and flare tool and install a simple Hayden 679 from O'Reilly's in place of the in-radiator setup. I am still running the stock 7.3 7-row as well. I've been running a Hayden cooler on my Chevelle to combat the heat from the 3000 stall and launches when dragging it, and have had absolutely no problems with it for the past two years. As far as I'm concerned Hayden makes a good quality piece.

In varying outside temperatures ranging from 85-103 degrees in bumper to bumper rush hour and cruising around town/freeway I have yet to see over 165 on the trans gauge (pulls from the pan). The 679 cooler is rated for a Class A motor home, 30,000 GVWR, and 10k towing.

All I did was cut the hard lines from the radiator, flare them, and plumb the Hayden cooler before the stock 7-row. I mounted the cooler in front of the intercooler dead center in front of the fan, cooler is only 12x15. Topped off the fluids to compensate for extra capacity and done.

Figured I'd share this in case someone else is looking to upgrade and is on a budget or short on funds. From what I've read about the 6.0 cooler I'm getting the same results for a fraction of the price.

 

How am I going to spend all this currency?







Make it rain

 

You got your own rig fool, get crackin'!

 

I did the 6.0 cooler because it was made for the truck and bolts right into the factory location rather than zip tying a cooler in place.. Also the way I installed mine I used factory lines as well. And to top it off there is no aftermarket unit that matches the factory 6.0 cooler, also and Mark will hopefully add to this but I don't think it is a good idea to stack coolers...

 

Because its the biggest effing stock cooler you can shove in it without going all ghetto with the hose clamps and zip ties, providing more places for leaks.

 

Every time I have stacked coolers I lose my ice.

 

Attachment 291396

I'm an aftermarket kinda' guy.

 

Who goes 2 miles into town and back and tows nothing..

 

It's funny, I was just thinking about that today. Everyone knows so much about me and what I do but they have never even seen me........lol. Actually I do tow something and most of the roads around here are winding and out of the little town, plus if you need anything else you have to travel the fastest and curviest section of I-5 in California into Redding. (The Terwilliger curves South of Portland give it a run for it's money though.)

 

I did it because I'm towing this through more hills and mountains than you can shake a stick at.

 

I just added the 6.0 cooler a couple weeks ago. I considered going the route you are talking about but considering all the good comments on here and other places and the comments I have read regarding restriction I went with the 6.0. I bought a Dorman cooler and then got the hoses and fittings. It ended up costing me a little more than a Hayden but holy crap does it work. Our GCVW is about 16000 when towing and through the Az and Ca desert last weekend I only saw 206 even though there are a couple good pulls and it was over 100 outside. I am very happy and only have about $225 into it.

 

Brent, fix your signature. Stewart didn't state that in a post, I did.

 

Don't forget the tranny likes to get warm too. By-passing the radiator in cold weather eliminates a source for warming the fluid. I'd probably add a tranny Derale 180 deg. thermostat if I by-passed the radiator.

...just sayin'

 

Yes they do.

What temperatures do you see backing a heavy trailer in 100F ambients? Especially on soft surfaces where it takes a lot more power to make it move.

No, you're not. You are getting good results in your light duty application.

Ford made this same error in 1999. They deleted the radiator cooler and found that many people burned up their transmissions backing trailers. The air to oil coolers do not get a lot of airflow when backing. The radiator does because the engine fan draws air over the radiator. The engine fan is VERY inefficient at drawing air over the air to oil transmission cooler. Now if you built ductwork to force air through it from the fan it MIGHT work.

And stacking two coolers adds a lot more restriction than one 6.0L cooler. Are you now near the cooler line pressure that will open the bypass valve? Once that opens you get near zero flow to the coolers, so you will not have any transmission cooling.

And the radiator cooler is a VERY effective cooler. Removing it from the system seriously lowers your cooling capacity.

Wrong, wrong, wrong.

The radiator COOLER never warms the transmission fluid. EVER. In ANY conditions.

I have tested this in conditions ranging from -48F to +115F and I have NEVER found a condition where the ATF entering the radiator COOLER was colder than the engine coolant around the transmission COOLER. It NEVER happens.

Have you ever measured the temperature of the engine coolant inside the radiator around the transmission cooler? I have. I had thermocouples installed in the radiator near the transmission COOLER. The coolant was ALWAYS colder than the ATF. There is no way to warm -30F ATF with -40F coolant. Thermodynamics says that is impossible.

 

Mark, Thanks for your expect info, again.

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