automatic locking hubs
#16
Now I remember… automatics had the push button shift and manual trans had the lever.
I've never had any trouble with auto lock hubs. The problems we had (as a dealer) was selling a truck to a guy who plows snow and he finds out the hubs unlock by themselves when he backs up then re-engage when he goes forward again… lots of wear goes on there.
I've never had any trouble with auto lock hubs. The problems we had (as a dealer) was selling a truck to a guy who plows snow and he finds out the hubs unlock by themselves when he backs up then re-engage when he goes forward again… lots of wear goes on there.
#18
Now I remember… automatics had the push button shift and manual trans had the lever.
I've never had any trouble with auto lock hubs. The problems we had (as a dealer) was selling a truck to a guy who plows snow and he finds out the hubs unlock by themselves when he backs up then re-engage when he goes forward again… lots of wear goes on there.
I've never had any trouble with auto lock hubs. The problems we had (as a dealer) was selling a truck to a guy who plows snow and he finds out the hubs unlock by themselves when he backs up then re-engage when he goes forward again… lots of wear goes on there.
You're a little off. My automatic has the floor mounted shifter and auto locking hubs. They're a mechanical cam system that rely on torque from the front driveshaft to engage. Trans doesn't matter when it comes to transfer case engagement and hub type.
#19
As I recall we couldn't order manual hubs with the push button 4X4… as I've said before it's been 18 years since I had that ordering guide in my hands.
#20
#21
In an earlier thread I was advised to change to manual hubs. I have the push button 4X4 and my local NAPA dealer stated that they were unavailable for my application ('92 F150).
#22
Auto hubs will fail and you will be stuck even with a little bit of snow. How do I know? We had 4" of snow on the ground, and I couldn't get out of my own driveway....
I had to drive my wifes Chevy Cobalt to work... Embarassing? Yes...
I now have Warn Premiums and don't have to worry anymore.
I had to drive my wifes Chevy Cobalt to work... Embarassing? Yes...
I now have Warn Premiums and don't have to worry anymore.
#23
Yep the autos are trash. Unlock when backing up? When you rock back then forward with some throttle they violently engage and disintegrate. Stuck. Next thing you know you hook a strap to a Chevy S10 to get out, bad day.
The hubs are "stand alone" in operation. They do not depend on any other spec of the truck. You can put autos/manuals on any of these rigs. You'll need the correct hardware obviously, but it can be done without issue. The Napa dealer mentioned above was mistaken.
The hubs are "stand alone" in operation. They do not depend on any other spec of the truck. You can put autos/manuals on any of these rigs. You'll need the correct hardware obviously, but it can be done without issue. The Napa dealer mentioned above was mistaken.
#24
Yep the autos are trash. Unlock when backing up? When you rock back then forward with some throttle they violently engage and disintegrate. Stuck. Next thing you know you hook a strap to a Chevy S10 to get out, bad day.
The hubs are "stand alone" in operation. They do not depend on any other spec of the truck. You can put autos/manuals on any of these rigs. You'll need the correct hardware obviously, but it can be done without issue. The Napa dealer mentioned above was mistaken.
The hubs are "stand alone" in operation. They do not depend on any other spec of the truck. You can put autos/manuals on any of these rigs. You'll need the correct hardware obviously, but it can be done without issue. The Napa dealer mentioned above was mistaken.
#25
1980-96 Mile Marker Stainless Supreme Hub Conversion Kit
I have them and they've been nothing but great. JBG also has other models available, or you can go on eBay or whatever and take a look around there too.
#26
#27
If anything, manual hubs should help the push button T-case operate more smoothly. When you mash that button you are not sending power to the shift motor directly but rather making a REQUEST to the electronic 4x4 controller. It can deny you if it sees fit, but assuming all is well the first thing the controller does is energize the mag clutch inside the t-case. It's an electromagnetic clutch similar to the one you see on your air conditioning compressor, and it's job is to spin the front driveline up to the same speed as the rear driveline. As the clutch engages and the front axle starts to rotate, the auto hubs (hopefully, maybe!) independently engage via their own internal cam actuators. Whether they do or not, the front driveline eventually synchronizes to the rear and the controller sees this via the speed sensor that is inside the t-case near the mag clutch. When it's happy that the front and rear speeds are sync'd it will then energize the shift motor while watching the feedback from the position encoder, and de-energize the motor when the encoder indicates that the case is in the requested mode.
Now if you have manual hubs, and they are locked before you request 4x4, then your front driveline is already up to speed and that (mag clutch) is one less thing to fail before you get the 4x4 you asked for by pushing the button.
Now if you have manual hubs, and they are locked before you request 4x4, then your front driveline is already up to speed and that (mag clutch) is one less thing to fail before you get the 4x4 you asked for by pushing the button.
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