They do make reproduction wiring harnesses with same wire color codes and connectors, matter of unplugging the old and plug in the new. I was not able to find a company that reproduced the dash harness at the time and ended up with a 'do it myselfer' repair using plastic ties to keep each trunk separate while making the repairs. They do make harness wrap which is none adhesive, just wrap the wires and I use blk electrical tape to secure the ends. This kit thru Carolina Classics looks like the answer for a complete wiring replacement, to include upgraded features, too bad they were not available few years back. Bookmarked the referral, thanks for posting. The reproduction harness will run approx. $100 ea. for the head and tail light harness, and approx. $50 ea. for the alternator and engine harness I will have to check and see if the company that makes the individual harness replacements is the same company that makes the kit, is so, I was very pleased w/ the quality, and workmanship of the individual reproduction harness.
'problem with engaging in useless activity is never knowing when your done'
65F100, 302ci, T18, swb, flareside,front disc. PS, Duraspark Ign.(Daily Driver)
65F100, 390ci, 3sp.OD, lwb, styleside, front disc., Duraspark Ign.
Not sure if you're aware of this so I thought I'd better just mention it: Fuel quantity senders and gauges need to be operating in a compatible resistance (ohms) range in order for the gauge to read correctly. Not all gauges and senders are compatible with each other. So the Ford factory sender referenced by ND may or may not be compatible with your non-Ford factory Sun Pro gauge. You need to know the ohm range the gauge is operating in and the ohm range the sender is operating in. They need to be the same. Unfortunately, industry wide, there are a lot of differences. This is irrespective of any issues you may or may not have with the IVR (Instrument Voltage Regulator). The test you ran, grounding out the sender wire to see if the gauge has life and full travel gives you that answer only. It has no bearing on compatibility. Hope this helps.
Thanks supersabre, amazingly enough I did know that about the ohm ratings for the gauge and for the sending unit. :-) However, one question I would ask is did that grounding out of the sending unit wire just test the gauge or does that mean that the voltage regulator is also okay? I am guessing that it is just for the gauge.
If I replace the sending unit, right now my plan is that I will replace it with an auto meter unit and an auto meter gauge, as I don't really like these SunPro gauges anyway. But that's not something I planned to do in the near-term, instead trying to focus on the things that might make the truck more safe, like brakes. :-)
If I recall correctly (and with me you never know), once you're into aftermarket gauges, they have their own wiring that does not use the IVR. When using OE Ford gauges, wiring, senders, the IVR plays a role. Usually, if you had factory gauges, the fuel quantity, coolant temperature, and oil pressure gauges (NOT the amp gauge) would be routed through the IVR. And if the IVR went bad, usually you would get all three gauges malfunctioning, and in the same way, such as all three needles going off scale high, or something like that. One word of caution on AutoMeter gauges (I have 3 cars/trucks with them), they have a Ford set using Ford resistance values which isn't as accurate as I would have expected from AutoMeter. Apparently they also have a non-Ford set which can be used that is more accurate, but the gauge markings are not quite symmetrical. At least that's supposed to be true for classic Mustang applications. Don't know if it applies to trucks. So you might want to call the AutoMeter tech guys and inquire. If you get any good information, let us know. Good luck!
Thanks for the tips on t he gauges. I will make sure to call AM and ask when I get to that point.
Been working on cleaning up the rear end some but noticed today when I hopped in the cab that the gas smell was GONE. So the gasket I cut out and replaced for the fuel sending unit fixed the problem. Gauge doesn't work but at least now it is just glorious old truck smell
Well six months and a week later, I finally post again in this build thread.
I did do a few things over the last 6 months that I posted in other threads specific to that topic, i.e. fixed the rear wheel bearings, rear axle seals, rear brake lines. That made the truck drivable and I was able to get my NC VIN (out-of-state antique requires a whole mess of bureaucracy). Anyway, I have been thinking and thinking about what I want to do and how I want to go about it, so I have a tentative plan and would like feedback from all of you experts.
(1) Basically, the only thing that is a safety/mechanical issue that I am aware of is the steering. I have taken it to two places and both agreed that kingpins, tie rod, etc etc are all fine and that the box is fine, rag joint newish and the problem is in the column itself. As the column in it is not original anyway (a 66/78ish hybrid) I am just going to replace it with an ididit collapsible. If I need to redo it, might as well get an added safety feature.
(2) While I am handy enough to fix something with appropriate instructions, I am less confident in my abilities to pick up on a problem and diagnose it, thus I found a retired mechanic that likes to work on classic cars and I am going to have him go through the engine, etc with me just in case I missed something. It does have a small coolant leak seeping from water pump to block but is very minor.
(3) Now the real plan - this is backwards from what I have seen normally done so tell me if I am totally crazy, but I plan to fix the interior first. This is the one area I know what I want for sure and I do not foresee doing anything to the rest of the truck that would change how I would do the interior. And as I need a new column and I need to fix the gauges, perhaps even rewiring the truck if I cannot figure it out, I will have those parts out anyway. I want bucket seats, perhaps with integrated belts so those are coming out and carpet is nasty around the doors as both seals are leaking on the doors. So, I plan to tear down the inside, fix the leaks (one around the windshield too) and re do it. Nothing crazy and custom but get it the way I want it. After that, I will work on the exterior. The one caveat to all of this is if the mechanic tells me my engine is at death's door, but I do not foresee that.
I was thinking of moving the gas tank but my wife convinced me I had no reason to do that - this after I spent dozen plus hours reading about mustang tank swaps, bronco II, etc. Bah, but she is right. For the time and money I can do something that actually NEEDS to be done. I did order a new grommet and filler neck rubber thing as there is a gas smell after it sits for a week. Also a new vented cap.
Heres my story: For years I wanted a 61-66 F100. I like classics in mint condition that look like they just rolled off the dealers lot.
I bought a 66 F100 352, 3 speed, long bed, custom cab. I loved it, it ran great, steered great, I added power brakes and cleaned up the interior. I was owner number 4, owner number 2 had the truck over 40 years. No a/c or ps made it a tough ride in the summer. A couple times we headed to a show or swap meet and arrived soaking wet, tired, and cranky. The truck needed 10k in paint and bodywork, 5k in interior work, and another 5k in misc odds and ends to make it the way I wanted it.
I sold it and bought a 64 F100 for 13k that is in mint condition. 292/AT.
Its to nice to use as a truck and to nice to use as a DD. So Im going to sell it and buy a not-as-nice truck so I can use it as a truck.
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