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Great project, I look forward to following your progress
Thanks - once I finish going over it and find everything that I can tell is wrong with it and take a deep breath I am going to list out of all of the issues. The list is increasing daily but just have to remember to take one step at a time...
Matt: When you adjust that door, take the receiver in the jamb completely off. It's really hard to adjust the door position and the striker at the same time. Loosen the six bolts that bolt the hinge to the door, just slightly and try to pry (wood/plastic) the door rearward. If you loosen the bolts too much the entire position will change and you'll be starting "from scratch". Don't loosen the bolts in the front jamb unless you need to move the door in or out. Once you're happy with the door being centered, then adjust the receiver/striker to the lock so it latches with little effort.
Well I tried to make some progress tonight and fix something. First thing to tackle was the faulty fuel sending unit and what I believe to be the cause of the gasoline smell in the cab.
Prior to today, I had checked the signal coming from the gauge by taking the red wire off the sending unit and grounding it to the unit itself. The gauge immediately went to full, which I think is a good sign. However, after I did that, the gauge didn't move at all any more. Previously, it moved but did not read correctly. Now it doesn't move at all.
Moving on, I went ahead and removed the unit and checked it out. It looks just like the Sunpro sending unit, which is what I assumed it was since the gauges are Sunpros. However, my guess it was a used unit as the gasket was horrid and looked reused as I don't think it would get that bad in two years. Also, the arms of the unit were not the right length for the F100 tan. The moving arm was more than 2 inches too short. I tried to lengthen but only had an inch to work with. Also noticed that the little sliver wires that the arm moves across as it goes up and down were broken in half in the middle range. Assume that can't be good.
Cut a new gasket and reinstalled. Hooked everything back up and turned to On. Nothing, nada. Stayed on E. Sigh.
And further electrical gremlins surfaced in the process. Previously, the truck would not start in park, only neutral. After tonight's work, it started right up in park. AND, now the oil pressure gauge and temperature gauge are also staying with the needle dead. Now wondering if may be the voltage regulator? This was working fine on Saturday...
At least if I go out tomorrow morning and the cab doesn't smell like gas I will have accomplished something.
Shot in the dark, with oil, temp, and fuel gauge not working you may want to check the Constant Voltage Regular unit on the back of the instrument panel for loose connection or faulty unit. Acts as an electrical shock absorber regulation voltage to gauges from 0-10v. The description of the fuel sending unit sounds like it's in more involved than the CVR unit???
Got into the beasts brains tonight and it looked to me like a mess. Tons of wires and a lot of weathered electrical tape.
Can't tell what goes to what.
Red wires from the aftermarket gauges wrapped up with some white wires.
I found the voltage regulator and it indeed looks like B9MZ-10804-C (thanks Numbers Dummy). It looks pretty rusted and bad to me. One of the leads went to the Fuel Gauge, the others disappeared into a group of wires taped up and then popped out the other end near the temp gauge but was not attached to it.
Not pretty. Was wrapped in old tape.
Should it be this bad? Suggestions on how to proceed? Didn't plan to look at this tonight was going to check the rear drums but couldn't find my 1/2" drive extension so will have to go get one.
Electrical flow for the Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR) is as follows:
1. 12V DC from the system enters the IVR.
2. Regulated voltage, about 6V DC leaves the IVR.
3. The IVR MUST BE GROUNDED. It can be affixed by a screw or bolt to the truck body under the dash, or to the instrument panel, but then the instrument panel must have a grounding strap.
4. 6V DC flows from the IVR to the Fuel Gauge, Temp Gauge, and Oil Pressure gauge (factory design).
5. Current flows from the gauges to the sending units
6. Current flows through the sending units to ground. The sending units control the flow of current to ground. The greater the flow, the further the gauge moves.
The wires on the IVR going to the gauges should be Black with a green stripe.
Wire to Fuel sending unit should be orange.
I don't recall the others at this time.
Wire Mess: Mine was the same. I tried to fix it for days until I decided to just rewire the whole thing. Bought the harness but haven't started it yet. Probably dive in on Saturday. Good luck with your rat nest.
Wire Mess: Mine was the same. I tried to fix it for days until I decided to just rewire the whole thing. Bought the harness but haven't started it yet. Probably dive in on Saturday. Good luck with your rat nest.
That was my gut reaction too...just rewire everything since I don't know what is going on anyway. What wiring harness did you buy? I've heard of the Painless ones but that seem pretty pricey. I probably will not tackle this one yet as the brakes are more important but trying to get my plan together.
I bought one from American Wiring, but bought it through Carolina Classic Trucks. For some reason it was $100 less from there for the same thing. Still pricey. The Carolina Classic guy said he hates the Painless harness, but of course he was selling me his. I have no idea if this thing is going to work. I'll let you know after I finish with it. If i kill myself then you'll know to go the other way. lol.
Ah so I did not realize there are two Carolina Classics companies in NC. The link I sent is from a company 10min away. Thanks for sending this I will check them out too.
08-19-2014, 01:08 PM
