Water pump replacement on a '92 460 - a few questions - Page 3 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums



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Water pump replacement on a '92 460 - a few questions

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  #31  
Old 08-18-2014, 04:02 PM
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I would assume Ford added the cooler as it was concerned with oil heating issiues. If engineered for cooling, what happens when cooler is removed? Temps would go up I would assume. How much? Perhaps, synthetic oil would make up for the removed cooler?
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  #32  
Old 08-18-2014, 04:18 PM
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NONE of these trucks came with that cooler until '91(?)
Do they work?
How well do they work?
I don't know.
If you worry install an oil temp gauge.

I do know I have hauled a 24' trailer to Florida doing 80+ mph from the NC state line in mid summer.
Like I said, I wouldn't do anything about it until it fails.

Many people just bypass them using an earlier lower radiator hose.
No coolant = no corrosion
Or they just get the factory angle adapter like came on my '87.
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  #33  
Old 08-18-2014, 04:55 PM
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I wonder what happened in 1991 to bring about the added cooler?

If it bothers me enough, I'll add the Ford racing adapater shown here.....


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fm...view/make/ford
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  #34  
Old 08-18-2014, 05:17 PM
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My '88 has a cooler...
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:02 PM
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My 89 has the factory external engine oil cooler in front of the rad. You can add one of these to your truck real easy and new aftermarket ones are not that expensive. It will make your a/c suck at idle because of the extra heat coming off of it and passing thru the condenser. I'm going to move mine somewhere else and put an electric fan on it (winter project! ). If you have ever wanted to do a remote mount filter you can incorporate the cooler into the plumbing at the same time.
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  #36  
Old 08-19-2014, 03:52 PM
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with the added trans cooler I plan on adding to front of radiator, unfortunately, there will not be enough real estate for an engine oil cooler in that area
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Old 08-19-2014, 04:43 PM
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Why not put it behind?
How could that be any hotter than the oil to water cooler you have now?

My fan sits st least 3" bsck in the shroud.
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Old 08-19-2014, 10:20 PM
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That's a good idea. Oil runs hotter than coolant so like you said it would be pretty much like the "heat exchanger" that's on it now.
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:15 PM
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I have been looking at that lower hose to the oil cooler also and am convinced the remote mount filter is a good idea and trash the oem cooler. I like the idea of a new oil cooler plumbed in at the same time, probably work a lot better than the factory one. All i mainly do with my truck is tow my trailer so cooling is the main priority.
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:20 PM
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I just added a Trans cooler to the front of my AC Condenser using rubber shims to keep it off of it just enough and I plan on doing this same method with the oil cooler when the time comes. I bought mine for $50 each. Not such a bad deal, and with running it up that far you also get added Volume that will increase its efficiency in cooling (if you are that worried about it. I am going to mount them both at the top portion of the Condenser that way the it give the coolant time to cool by the time it goes thru the lower hose. Just my .02
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:21 PM
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A thermostatic bypass would be good in some climates.

You want the oil to get up to operating temp as quick as possible.

Having a cooler can never hurt when you need it.
Having one that fails can be disastrous.
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  #42  
Old 08-20-2014, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk View Post
Why not put it behind?
How could that be any hotter than the oil to water cooler you have now?

My fan sits st least 3" back in the shroud.
Am I understanding your oil cooler to be mounted between radiator and fan? It would require the cooler to be small enough to sit inside the diameter (round portion) of the fan shroud, correct? The shroud is, what, maybe 4" deep at the circular area? Is the cooler mounted against radiator or just off of it?
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Old 08-21-2014, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by trhatha View Post
After thinking about this, I can;t imagine having to take the timing cover off and replace related gaskets, including oil pan seal....just to replace water pump? Am I correct?
Thats was my question earlier in this thread. Someone stated that if the timing cover is disturbed, it can leak after a water pump replacement.

This is why I decided to leave my water pump alone (I even have a new one ready to go) since it is not leaking.

I have no real experience with the removal of the water pump and alum backing plate behind it (Timing chain cover) so I don't know all that is involved with gaskets, rubber oil seals, and lowering of oil pan to replace rubber seal
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  #44  
Old 08-21-2014, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trhatha View Post
After thinking about this, I can;t imagine having to take the timing cover off and replace related gaskets, including oil pan seal....just to replace water pump? Am I correct?
You do not need to take off the timing cover to change the water pump, unless...

As described earlier, it's not uncommon for water pump bolts, which go through the timing cover into the block, to be stuck in the timing cover, even to the point where they break off. If / when that happens you usually need to take the timing cover off to get the broken bolts out.
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalAngler View Post
Am I understanding your oil cooler to be mounted between radiator and fan? It would require the cooler to be small enough to sit inside the diameter (round portion) of the fan shroud, correct? The shroud is, what, maybe 4" deep at the circular area? Is the cooler mounted against radiator or just off of it?
I needs to be just off the rad a little regardless of whether it's in the front of or on the back of the rad by using rubber spacers to avoid contact between the two. They make mounting kits that are plastic pieces that go between the fins and include rubber pads and fastening devices. They are made primarily for electric fans, but are strong enough for most coolers.
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