I'm running 3/8" 30R7 from the tank to a glasss type filter just like the one Danskool posted. Then a short piece of 3/8" to the pump.

 

Havent sold me on that tick.. ha.. last week dads fuel pump told me i had a vacuum leak before i saw bubbles in the glass filter from me not getting it tight enough.. The noisy pump told me i had an air issue and made me crawl under to see the bubbles.. So now i know what a air leak sounds like coming from the fuel pump. The pump was not happy.

I just don't understand.. Fuel starvation and air problems with metal spin type. I see no issues here. Just longer service life over the cheap in inlines. And i have no problem with the cheap inlines either (except the glass type can be a pain at times)

Just a personal preference thing. I just wanted something i can get readily while i travel (what if) and didn't want to mess with the glass type filters anymore. My screw on metal filter has been on there for years. no issues Dads glass type has been on for even longer (although it can be a pain sometimes)

One more thing, Dads Glass filter just ran two full years. 30,000 miles, since i touched it last.. He keeps perfect records in his little book. So he wanted me to change the screen because it appeared dirty.. So my metal screw on should last 50,000 miles minumum.

 

Before you speak too soon, Dan, it can take as little as one tank load of dirty fuel. I know... I've been there, too.

Granted, the spin on metal housing can take much more because it has a larger surface area, but it is also a tighter filtration "mesh", and it can get plugged easily enough as well if you pick up dirty fuel.

I've run as much as over 30,000 miles on my BF1212 between changes with no indication of a problem. For me, that's about 18 months. I would rather maintain peace of mind and just change it yearly (since I can't see how plugged it is). Once I install the Racor on my truck, I'll be able to let it go as long as possible and rely on visual inspections to determine the required cleaning frequency.

 

Yeah, But the Racor is 200 micron.. it will be forever before you need to touch it. So the main bowl filter will take everybit of the smallest particles. So with that racor, the dirty fuel could pass right through and clog up the main filter. The only benefit of the racor is protecting the screens in the factory fuel pump.

My screw on filter is 16 mic. With a super large surface area. It will hold up for 1,000's of miles . Plus if it starts to show signs of starvation, I just have to hit Napa and 10 minutes i am back on the road. With a filter they "stock" (or i might have one under the seat ) And i don't have to dink around with the main bowl filter as often either. That is a 10mic. I figured i won't mess with either until i get around 30-40k SO far i am at 30k. So holding true so far. If i ran a racor, i would change my fuel main filter every oil change @ (10k) because it is seeing the full blunt of the debri

My wifes car has over 120,000 miles on her factory fuel filter.. Still going.
Don't your service stations have filters on the pumps?

http://www.powerstrokediesel.com/index/404

recommends a 15k mile for a filter change.. Toss on a 16mic with large surface area before that main filter, and you can run triple that mileage or more.

I passed this thread around here with the guys, We deal with filters and screens on hydraulic systems all the time.. They all agree with me.. The racor 200mic screen only protects the unservicable screen in the fuel pump.. Running my napa 16 micro backs up the main fuel filter 10mic. So mine protects the fuel pump and also increases the life of the main filter.. By how long, Who knows. As far as starvation, That would be a rare occasion and confuses us because the GPM of these filters is huge. Even under vacuum. For an example.. If you pull the line off before the fuel pump with my 16mic metal filter inlline.. The fuel screams out of there at a rate more than what the engine uses, just from gravity..

Ref the bf1212. rates and Mic levels. I would use it. http://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2772...el-filter.aspx

 

FWIW, the Racor PS120-02 is not glass (not saying that anybody in here said it was glass).

Rather, it is a really hard, clear plastic jar.

So hard that it actually has a hex nut molded into it on the bottom for a socket or wrench. (I get worried about overtightening things, so I just used a rubber strap wrench around the jar to tighten it.)

 

So Where do I begin. Being STUPID!! I have done the hutch and harpoon mod. I have installed a pre screen filter used on Case 5.9 engines. Gelled up this last winter. Got the screen filter danskool's father runs. On a road trip thru IOWA temp dropped into single digits,,, and dead on the interstate.. Not gelled, but fuel not flowing enough to keep running! Started up and ran for five more miles, before shutdown! Put in tube to eliminate screen filter and ran. Step two, Ok International runs there T444E with a parker 025-RAC-01 prescreen filter That should be good. Wrong!! T444E same somewhat as the Ford 7.3, but different.
The Ford fuel system uses a 30 plus Gallons Per Hour (please help me on the numbers) fuel pump.
I then opted for the Racor PS120-02. Best move I made!! Recently I had to injectors an cups per over 200000 on injectors an unknown on cups, had fuel in anti-freeze. After going thru cups, had black gunk come thru Racor PS120-02 trapped on bottom!! The only thing I can think of, is 120 GPH Particles will separate with this screen. I believe the Ford mixing chamber uses 200 micron filters as well. Only two vs one that I tried to use with the 025-RAC-01.

 

sgarder, my suggestions: If he doesn't see this thread, send a private message to F350-6. He says that you can have fuel forced back from the heads to the fuel pump and then to the pre-fuel pump and IIRC if the fuel is dirty (due to bad O rings) it can look like that.

One other thing can make black gunk: Algae. Search for it in this forum.

Silver gunk is a delaminated Ford steel fuel tank which is used in the E-series (that is how I know...) and in the F-450 and larger series.

If you haven't pulled it recently, maybe take a look at your OEM fuel filter.

 

I do not have a problem with contamination. I just wanted to let people know that having a filter that is capable of flowing enough Gallons per hour even in the cold to keep from getting stranded. And that the Racor ps120-02 will allow some separation before it gets to the fuel pump. It is nice to be able to see thru the clear housing to see how clean the screen is

 

I also find it interesting how much junk has amassed at the bottom of the filter housing, considering all the fuel station pumps have filters.

 

Are you sure you have the right part number there? I just find it hard to believe that International would use a filter that is not diesel rated.

Anyway, In case anyone was curious, I thought I'd throw a quick update in here. Since last week, I've put maybe 20 miles on the truck (short trips to the hay field for work). Each time I crawled under the truck to check, the Wix #33007 seemed to be filling up with more bubbles than before.

Took some time yesterday to dump the Wix filter and throw in the glass Mr Gasket #9747 (5/16") that others had referenced. No more bubbles after driving all day.

Maybe the Wix design changed or something since members years ago started using those inline filters. Whatever it is, there is no way I could recommend them after tearing my hair out trying to fix the air leaks.

I'll keep Tugly's Racor PS120-02 bookmarked in case I ever decide to go with the fuel bowl delete. Considering I fight with a leaky fuel cap every time I change that filter, it might not be too far off...

For any new guys about to do this mod, don't go without a pre-pump filter of some kind. My fuel tank was spotless inside but my filter is already collecting gunk within 20 miles...

 

Tugly didn't remove his fuel bowl. I believe he just added that filter because of the removal of in tank screens!

 

After reading this I dumped my WIX and added the Mr. Gasket #9747. No more bubbles. I don't think it was air leaking in, I believe it was a change in pressure in the filter that made the vapor in the fuel boil. New filter is less restrictive. That's my theory anyway.