1993 F-350 351W efi to carb.
#1
1993 F-350 351W efi to carb.
I have recently traded for a 93 Crew Cab that has the 351W in it with an E4OD. The guy put a Edelbrock Performer intake with a Holley double pumper on it. I have purchased the correct vacuum advance distributor but have not been able to figure out the correct wires to use form the original wiring harness. The guy has done away with the EFI setup completely, so there is no going back to EFI. The original plug off the factory distributor has 5 wires whereas the new vacuum advance only has 3. Has anyone else ever done this swap and if so which wires are needed to complete this swap??
#2
What "correct" distributor did you buy? I am going to assume since you said it has 3 wires, that you got a duraspark II type dist.
If you did, you will need to go back to the store and buy a ignition module. You will then need to wire it in like this. You will also need the harness that goes between the module and the dist.
If you did, you will need to go back to the store and buy a ignition module. You will then need to wire it in like this. You will also need the harness that goes between the module and the dist.
#3
Uh oh.
While it is possible to go from EFI to carb, the loss in driveability makes it a step backward. With the E4OD, you have an electronically controlled transmission that is not going to like all the missing input from the TPS and other engine functions. Bad news all around
My advice, locate the EFI pieces and do it right.
While it is possible to go from EFI to carb, the loss in driveability makes it a step backward. With the E4OD, you have an electronically controlled transmission that is not going to like all the missing input from the TPS and other engine functions. Bad news all around
My advice, locate the EFI pieces and do it right.
#4
#5
#6
Run a wire from the other side of the resistor to the coil + that you got off the 77. Don't use the efi coil.
The dist should plug right into the module with the wiring you already have. It should have some wires for the coil also.
2 more wires to worry about.
The start/retard wire. Take a new wire and hook it to the red/blue on the "s" terminal of the starter solenoid, and run it around and hook it to the white wire of the module. This will retard the timing while cranking making it turn over easier.
The 12v resistor bypass. This may be a little bit more difficult. To do this easily, you need a solenoid with two small terminals. Many of the later trucks had solenoid with only 1 small terminal(the "S"). Swap in a older style solenoid with two terminals(the 77 probably has this) and then you will have the extra "I" terminal. Run a wire from this terminal around and hook it to the + coil terminal. This will put 12v directly to the coil, to give a hotter spark for starting. When the engine starts, then the power for the coil goes through the Chrysler resistor and drops the voltage to the coil to about 9v. This resistor is very important.
#7
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