I installed a cpp400 power steering box a while ago ( 56 F100) but just started to drive the truck. It had a good bit of steering wander I thought it was toe in. I took it for alignment (original straight axle). Still has some wander. The tech (40 years experience ) said the steering box was moving, on the plate . Not the plate to frame but the box on the plate. Searching threads I only found 1 mention of threads saying there where issues with it, but didn't find any. I will call cpp Monday. Anyone know of anyone or threads that have had issues? Thanks Dean

 

There are counter sunk flat head 5\16 Allen head screws holding the mounting plate to the steering box. The threads were just barely NOT cut deep enough in some holes to tighten the screws to the plate. When I took them out I found 1 screw that had been ground to shorten it. So I tried each 1 individually. If you did them all at once you didn't notice, but trying each one by itself it was loose on 3 screws. I shortened those three on there respective holes and added a drop of locktite . Hopefully I won't have any more problems as it isn't any fun to get that box out and back in. I realize no one answered this to begin with but as I said there were mentions of issues but I couldn't find them. Any way just a follow up. Dean

 

I'm following your thread. Interested if your bolt shortening cures the steering wander.
I recently completed my 1954 F100 restoration and drove it for the first time early last month. As expected there were several things found while driving that needed attention. Fortunately most were easy to address. The most concerning is steering wander. I added an additional 4 degrees of caster shim to the front axle and increased toe-in which helped a lot but it is still excessive. All components on the front end are either new or rebuilt. My power steering box is a factory re-manufactured Toyota. Unlike your 400 Series, the old style Toyota is not a close ratio unit. I'm thinking that part of my perception of the "wander" has to do with the great amount of wheeling require to turn the wheels. I'm considering upgrading to the 400.

 

Sorry I didn't see your original post as I would have checked it out. I have the CPP 400 unit as well. It sits in my shop while I work on other stuff. I am following another CPP forum, by Klawockvet, regarding other issues with the CPP unit. In that post, Klawockvet fabricatied his own spacer and he changed the PA nut to a lock nut. I decided that the 3/4" plate he used for a spacer was a pretty good idea so I made one for my install. I also decided to change the nut and washer out for a flanged nut, link shown below. to eliminate the need for the thick washer and to have more threads for the nut. Next item will be to remove the flathead screws and check them for thread depth as you have done.
Thank you for the post. I am blessed to have issues sorted by other users.

​​​​​​https://belmetric.com/m22x1-5-fine-1...u=NFF22X1.5BLK

 

The solid axle steers different than any newer front end. But fixing the box made a huge difference. Have someone move the steering wheel and watch the box and mounting plate. Thats where I could see a lot of movement . Now that the plate is secure to the box the movement is gone. I had already put mine in when I saw the post about the plate. I added 4° of shim before the alignment. The alignment fixed my wander. On the list for the future is sway bars, mid fifty and others say what a big difference that makes. I looked for a Toyota box but didn't find any. I have a couple threads past the pit man even with the washer.
​​​​​But a higher ratio rear end needs to come first. Dean

 

Sorry if I bounced around in my last post. I was trying to address the issues that had been brought up. Dean

 

Is that 4 degree shim on the leaf springs? And yes to the sway bars, I want them as well. And I have no plans to change the rear end gears or get another axle. At least not yet. Good that you got rid of the wander with an alignment. Thanks for the advice on the steering box.

 

Yes , 4° shim on the leaf springs and my alignment guy said that was right with the radial tires. Dean

 

I do have the 4 deg shims for mine but did not about the shims being "right with the radial tires."

 

My steering is a lot better, tighter. It goes down the road straight, but it doesn't have any power for slow (driveway, side road turns) . Actually I am not sure it even is working. Going down the road is ok . I changed the original pump , came with the engine. 1985 RV 15000 miles, saginaw. The new (rebuilt) had the Ford whine no matter how I bled it ,couldn't stop it. Changed again and this one does the same as original. Any ideas ?? I will call CPP on Monday but if anyone else has had similar issues and has found a cure please let me know. Thanks Dean

 

Sorry, I was a little slow at responding. I seem to be busy. Anyway, the only thing that comes to mind is the pump pressure. The saginaw from the mid eighties is the correct one and I see that is what you have listed above. So, the pump pressure should be correct. What did you get from CPP? Hopfully they got you "On the road again". The good stuff is that the steering is a lot better and I assume you mean less play in the steering wheel. The down side is that it has no power at slow speed when turning.