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I did not build my own harness, at least not all of it. (I did build various sub-harnesses like the headlight / turn signal one shown.)
I might caution you on routing current in to the cab to run ALL of these items:
fans 25 amps (35 amps on startup)
AC / HVAC fans 15 amps on high speed
computer 5 amps
headlights 10 amps
Fuel pump. 8 amps
stereo / amplifier / powered sub 10 to 15 amps
In my case, that's on the order of 80 amps in warm weather with radio and AC on high. If they are all fed from one power wire, it would need to be a HUGE feed wire.
That's why I created load centers as shown in the photos to distribute the loads. You could still use the Ron Francis harness, but just use what they have for triggering relays close to your loads. When it comes down to it cooling fan, headlights and fuel pump might be the only loads you might move out of the cab.
I bought that pre-wired Bussman relay box from Wire Wagon wiredwagon@comcast.net
It had five relays in it, all the water sealed plugs, fuses, a very nicely done feed wire with heat shrunk shrouding , etc.
It was just like this: Bussman Fuse/Relay Box Kit from WagonGear - Expedition Portal
And maybe $80 or $100. Given the price of the individual parts, he wasn't making much. Maybe $25 to $40 and it saved me 2 hours.
The junction box is here: Stud Type Plastic Junction Box
Yeah, I get it. You are welcome.
If I did mine again, I'd have used one bussman box in the cab and one on the frame rail. Much smaller and neater than traditional fuse box.
Also, with relays, you can use ground trigger for things like ignition, headlights, fan, etc. Safer and then no need to wire with fuses until at the relay.
Yeah, I get it. You are welcome.
If I did mine again, I'd have used one bussman box in the cab and one on the frame rail. Much smaller and neater than traditional fuse box.
Also, with relays, you can use ground trigger for things like ignition, headlights, fan, etc. Safer and then no need to wire with fuses until at the relay.
Doug
That is my plan. That is also the driving factor behind wiring it myself. I prefer to run the voltage through the load first and use a switch on the grounding side.
I found a seller on ebay asking $130 to build it in either pos or neg trigger.
I priced everything out (roughly) without cable I came to about $70. I am not 100% sure on the length of each run/wire gage (which I will figure out shortly)
If I did th pre-wired premade kit I would likely install some metripak/weatherpack connectors for ease of install and removal as opposed to soldering the wires together. I might still do that if I make my own box though
On metri-pak, cool. I used that trailer junction box instead of plugs, but plugs are much nicer.
I wasn't setup for Metric-pak and didn't feel like doing all the research to figure out what is compatible with what and then spending $200 on tools and parts. One day I will. Just wanted to be done with the wiring.
On metri-pak, cool. I used that trailer junction box instead of plugs, but plugs are much nicer.
I wasn't setup for Metric-pak and didn't feel like doing all the research to figure out what is compatible with what and then spending $200 on tools and parts. One day I will. Just wanted to be done with the wiring.
On my American Autowire harness for my 69 mustang and many other things on the F1. You can get a $30 verion of that with different jaws for different terminals but for $95 (shop around for lower prices) you get a lot of crimping tool. I can do pretty much any type of wire crimp I need. MSD and other spark plug wire companies sell this exact model with only the spark plug wire jaws for about $75 (rip-off)
I ran across this when I was looking for the proper crimpers for my AAW harness, they wanted like $80 each to buy or $50 to rent it and it only did 2 different terminal styles.
Mike does your 3650 have a slip yoke? Gary's 3650 (07 M GT) has a flange on the output shaft, so it looks like he'll have to use a 2 pc driveshaft with a slip joint in it. Gary's shifter also mounted between the tranny tailshaft with a flex joint at the front and the rear rubber mounted to the floor rather than internal rails like most Tremecs. That puts the handle behind the end of the tailshaft and well under the seat. I am designing a new mounting arrangement for a Hurst short shifter kit that will reverse the shifter position (similar to what the Cobra kit guys do) to move it forwards out from under the seat.
Just designed the tranny crossmember with a drop-out center section and offset 1" to match engine offset.
AX, I have the older T3650 with the internal shift rails. My transmission came out of a 2001 Mustang GT. I have the front slip yoke and rear yoke flange.
The 2005+ T3650 have the remote shifter that Gary has. These have the flange yoke on both ends of the driveshaft. They make a one peice driveshaft for the S197 platforms:
Hi Guys, For those who were looking or info on front brakes for the F1000/Crown Vic conversions please take a moment to visit the fresh vendor post I put up! I hope it puts a smile on some faces.
08-04-2015, 05:43 PM
NVH?