I put off welding the cradle until I have a full day.

However, I came home from the gym to a porch full of suspension parts.

I ground and hammered out all of the rear spring perch rivets and have everything set in place. Im waiting on the new shackles still.

 

I got the cradle welded and set in place. I will post pics later.

 

 

 

I kind of want to keep the stock wheel and column. Has anyone done this or did you all go Ididit etc aftermarket parts?

 

Any advice on the column?

Also, I seem to have misplaced all of my keys to the truck. Should I attempt to get a locksmith to rekey the doors or go with repop (if they are even offered) I see the ignition is $25 (so that isnt too bad)

 

Do you not have a Classic Haulers Home - Classic Haulers F-1 Parts free catalog???? Get on the phone first thing Monday and request one, it's a must have. They list replacement door locks with keys. It might be cheaper to have the cylinder rekeyed if you can find an old school locksmith these days, they are getting as rare as body shops that can actually shape metal.
AFA column:
General answer: yes the column can be modified to be used without the OEM steering box. You will need to cut the steering shaft as close to the box as you can (avoid damaging the box itself, rebuilders will buy it for the housing) Then you will need a centering bushing for the lower end, and fab or buy a floor mount. You will lose the horn button functionality, so you will need to mount/wire up an accessory push button switch or Mid Fifty Home - Mid Fifty F-100 Parts sells a somewhat pricey (their words not mine) conversion kit to return the button functionality. You will also have to decide what fastening/indexing method you want to use for the U joint coupling, pin, weld or grind to DD shape and order the appropriate U joint.
Specific answer: I'm not familiar with the CV IFS layout (front steer, rear steer, etc) or what engine headers you will be using, so I can't offer info on exactly what you will need to couple together the column and CV steering box or what specific clearance issues you might experience. You might download or order a Borgeson catalog, there is a lot of detailed tech info on how to hook the two together in there and what parts are available/needed. (almost every parts supplier sells Borgeson manufactured steering shaft parts: Ujoints, couplers, rag joints, intermediate shafts, shaft supports, etc, so might as well get the info from the horse's mouth so to speak).

 

Thanks Ax. I have a couple good lock smiths locally. I will give them a call and also get the cataloge.

As for the steering, you pretty much answered my questions. I cant justify using a GM column like most people do here (Id prefer to stick with all Ford parts, no matter the year) The cradle has the rack mounted to the front and I will be using long tube headers on a 4.6L DOHC Cobra engine. I know that the clearance will be tight but I figure it will be tight no matter what column I use. I have never personally seen a modified stocker yet. I was also curious as to how the gearbox comes off of the column. What companies buy them?

Also, as bad as I feel doing it, I think most of my stock parts are going to go to the scrap yard (in the way and I could use some extra cash for more projects) I have had my rear axle, front axle, springs, pearches, motor mount brackets, 3 spd trans, v8 flathead all listed for a while and not much interest other than tire kickers, mainly for the flathead.

Would it be a huge mistake scapping it all?

 

The column steering shaft and gear inside the box is all one piece. You just saw through the shaft at the box. It's soft, so a hacksaw will cut it. I'm not sure if the F1 and F100 boxes are identical, but Mid Fifty buys the 53-56 boxes, Classic Haulers may do the same (check their catalog) Classic Haulers and Mid Fifty are "sister" companies in that each is owned by two sisters. Both are excellent companies to deal with. 56bigwin posted recently that he also buys the box cores.
Winter in the NE is not good selling season for old parts, if they are in real good shape, best to wait for late spring to sell unless you desperately need the room. Rear axle is likely better to scrap tho, not a big demand for those. Good flathead blocks and/or running motors are always in demand.
Edit: most swap columns to get tilt, built in turn signal switch, ability to mount aftermarket wheels. There are some ford columns that can be used, just easier to find useable GM ones. Most all aftermarket wiring harnesses use GM wiring color pattern and come with GM column connector plug already installed. Ford was never very consistent with its harness wire colors or column wiring like GM, which makes wiring more challenging. All the aftermarket columns come wired to match GM with the GM plug already installed. I use whatever parts work best and/or are easiest to source/install regardless of the OEM manufacturer. Even the big 3 buy/use parts from each other, so why shouldn't I?

 

I got new lock cylinders for my door and ignition. Total POS chinese stuff, the door cylinder came apart the second time I used it. AFAIK they are all selling the same crap.

If you take your cylinder in to a locksmith, it's likely cost more to get a key cut from scratch, and a couple I went to just plain weren't interested in trying. There is a guy on the Ford Barn who does it, I'll see if I can find his contact info.

 

Yea, thats what I was affraid of with the repops. If you find it, let me know.

 

I found a couple, here's one. It really helps if you can get the code #'s stamped on the cylinder (door cyl "should" be the same as ignition, but...)

 

Today's Agenda:

Finish CV IFS install.
Fab up frame boxing plates.
Fab frame bolt tubes (to resist crush when IFS mounting bolts are torqued)
Remove rear running board supports to located leaf spring mounts
Rough estimate for engine and trans location.

 

In my pics there is some shots of what I did to keep my original look in cab steering column. To keep the inner shaft centered I used the lower bearing from an old chevy column and used a piece of exhaust tubing to keep it lined up . It comes apart if need be. Mine has worked well for a long time with no issues .

 

Great. Thank you. I will take a look.



I decided to change the way I had the IFS mocked up. Instead of using the steel block as spacers between the frame and cradle I decided to cut the frame and notch it to make the mounting surface level and square. This gained me a few things. I have a cleaner install, more rigidity in the frame, proper mounting to maintain correct caster angle and I will have the front end lowered an extra inch or more.

Overall, it is a cleaner install. I will get pics up tomorrow. I have the "anti-frame crush" tubes cut and welded into place, the frame will be boxed tomorrow and the mounts will be fabbed up. I ran out of time today.

I was working with the limitation of how far I could stretch my Lincoln Mig 180 torch lead (about 6 feet id say) so I treated myself to an extension chord for the welder. I have a 6-50 setup and 8 gauge wire with 220v/40 amp breaker. My extension chord is rated for the same as the house wiring and welder. It was about $125 for 25 feet from Airgas. I didnt want to spend the money on it but I sold my flathead and wheels so it paid for itself plus all of the plate steel and tubing I purchased.

Tomorrow I will press on and get the rear end setup permanently to compliment the front ride height.