Yea the more I think about it the more I don't want to do an irreversible mod.

Next question:

My bed/box sides have the old carriage bolts rusted in the panels. What is the best way to removed them?

Angle grinder with a disc, heat, penetrating oil and some love from a hammer?

 

yes all the above plus sawsall and nut splitter

 

There isn't enough to sawzall... maybe 1/4" sticking out past the bedside. Sawzall was probably initially used lol.

Hmmm maybe I can use my spotweld cutting bit on the back side of the heads and get them that way. I just don't want to trash the bedsides in the process.

 

I try to save my spot weld bits unless HF I use HF drill bits and what ever to be nice to the parts I need and just what ever it takes to the bolts nuts to clean them off

 

Note that the "carriage bolts" in the bed sides for the fenders are not carriage bolts at all or rusted in, they were spot welded (3 each) from the factory. Be careful removing them as it's easy to tear the bed side. Do an advanced search on keywords "fender bolt removal" here to find the popular/successful removal methods. Advanced search can be found by clicking the search v tab in the blue band under the FTE logo above. select advanced search in the drop down menu. Be sure to put the keyword phrase in quotes or you'll get hit on every post that contains any of the words: FENDER, BOLT OR REMOVAL in it. Also check the 48-56 forum as the search location.

 

I used an air hammer/chisel bit to remove mine. Just hook under the edge and carefully work them out. The three spot welds pop fairly easily.

 

You gunna narrow this? I took 2.75" out of mine so it would fit the frame rails.

 

I had a suspicion that they were spot welded but theres enough rust to make them look rusted in. The reason I said carriage bolts was because I saw replacements that were carriage style. I will work the grinder, air hammer, and spot weld drill bit I have.

Also, yes, I will be narrowing the CV IFS probably in a week or so. Im backed up with work and another project car at the moment so the truck has taken the back burner for a while. Just trying to get all my ducks in a row to hit the ground running.

 

It's a lot faster to drill out the bolt/stud part with the washer left in place. Then put new studs (bolts with heads cut off) in and weld flush.

 

That is pretty much what I am planning on doing. Drill the back side of the head and grind off the remaining head or pop it off with a chisel if needed.

 

Well, since I had to get more brake line for my 69 Fastback I doubled the order and got some fore my truck as well.

I have been temporarily set back due to my basement flooding and some career interviews so that put the Mustang on hold and the truck also on hold.

Ill get back on the horse and ride into battle (of fabrication) as soon as I can.

 

I was saying, leave the head on there, drill thru the stud in the center, put in a new stud and weld it flush with the head.

 

What is the benefit of doing that as opposed to removing the whole fastener and welding in a new fastener? It seems like it would be better around the weaker areas of the bed side but require more drilling.

 

I currently have the truck sitting as seen in the pictures above, what do you all recommend for cradle placement?

Does anyone who has done the CV swap have real world dimensions as a starting point to center the wheel in the fender?

just trying to collect as much data as possible proir to cutting/welding etc.

 

I started on the rear fender bolts and got the pass rear fender all done and ready, its mocked up on the bed. I started back on the front end for the CV swap. I have to grind out the rivets for the stock spring mounts. I might tackle narrowing the cradle this week if all goes well.