1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Well, it's almost time. 51 F1

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  #16  
Old 08-17-2014, 08:12 PM
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I make all my own mounts from scrap steel cutoffs, cost is almost nothing. I look at "universal" stuff as fitting nothing withouts mods anyway.
 
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:50 PM
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Somewhat of an update,

I have 2 front fenders being shipped from CA. They should be in MI when I arrive back as a civilian (pretty damn happy about it)

I just picked up a Lincoln 180 MIG with a bunch of stuff for a GREAT price. I got a 4 foot tank (not sure on the CuFt volume but I own it, not rented), it came with a Kobalt auto darkening helmet, a bunch of consumables (spare tips etc) I got an aluminum spool gun with all the needed stuff to adapt it, 6 spools of flux-core welding wire (probably wont be using them for anything other than practicing) got a decent cart as well. The whole thing cost $540, not a scratch on it, only used a few times for light work.

Im pretty excited to start fabbing up some stuff. I have a few things to do on the truck but I will need to run a dedicated plug to the garage because its a 208/230 setup (no 120 option) This isnt a huge deal because I just replaced a fuse panel with a circuit panel last month. I also have the proper circuit at my family's house for the time being.

My wife was pretty upset that I spent the cash right before I EAS out of the Corps but I have a career lined up at one of the Big 3 world head quarters doing some pretty cool work and I sold my dirt bike, so financially Im still in the green.
 
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Old 09-01-2014, 10:24 PM
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Suggest you read my Mig welding tutorial: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html Don't bother with the flux core wire. "practicing" with it is like trying to learn to drive a formula I race car by practicing driving your pickup down the expressway. What's in the gas bottle? 25% Ar, CO2 is what you want for steel, You'll need a separate bottle of 100% Ar for aluminum welding. If the bottle isn't a size or type your local welding supplier handles, all you "own" is some scrap iron since they won't exchange it when empty.
 
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Old 09-01-2014, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by AXracer
Suggest you read my Mig welding tutorial: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html Don't bother with the flux core wire. "practicing" with it is like trying to learn to drive a formula I race car by practicing driving your pickup down the expressway. What's in the gas bottle? 25% Ar, CO2 is what you want. If the bottle isn't a size or type your local welding supplier handles, all you "own" is some scrap iron.
Thanks, Ill check out that link.

I have previously owned a Lincoln MIG 140 Weldpak and I have done some welding in high school and college. I did a few weld jobs as a tech at the dealership level. I say practice with quotes because it has been a while. I will mainly use the extra flux core wire for odds and end jobs (or if i ever run out of gas on a weekend) I would like my wife to get involved in cars, this is something that she might enjoy so she can tear thru the extra flux-core wire lol.

As far as the tank, Im in the Detroit area and have a gas supply company that deals in pretty much all size tanks or at least the 3 standard small, med, large tanks you normally see on weld/cutting carts.

Edit, yes, its 75%/25% Ar/Co2. Im currently reading thru your thread. Im in ENC currently. Do you weld professionally, it seems like you understand/know a great deal about it.

I know a decent amount but will be focusing on technique and getting familiar with the machine mainly, prior to any "technical" welds
 
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Old 09-01-2014, 11:55 PM
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Hello Mustang Mike,

Here's another welcome from California, and another thank you for your service. It's good that you have everything lined up at home for a job....and that you are back safely.

I have a Lincoln MIG...I don't remember the model number off hand & it is out in my workshop. I can say that I bought it as a flux core unit. After a few welds with the flux core, I went back and bought the gas kit. I have never gone back. That flux core makes a mess....it's just not as fun as welding with solid wire and inert gas. One of my friends called it the "hot glue gun for metal". He wasn't too far off.

If you have the time, read through Ax's welding guides....they will be very helpful!!

By the way...I did also break down and buy a really good set of welding gloves.

The other thing that my family did was to buy me a Henrob gas welding torch. Technically, they bought the US brand (DHC-2000 Welding and Cutting Torch $395 - Free Shipping - 803.429.2545). That added a whole new dynamic to gas welding for me. If you want just one set of toys, the MIG is the one to have (imho). Sometimes, however, a gas weld is the way. The Henrob makes really good cuts, even on relatively heavy steel.

Good luck & keep the pics coming as you make progress.

Dan
 
  #21  
Old 09-02-2014, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by mustangmike6996
Thanks, Ill check out that link.

I have previously owned a Lincoln MIG 140 Weldpak and I have done some welding in high school and college. I did a few weld jobs as a tech at the dealership level. I say practice with quotes because it has been a while. I will mainly use the extra flux core wire for odds and end jobs (or if i ever run out of gas on a weekend) I would like my wife to get involved in cars, this is something that she might enjoy so she can tear thru the extra flux-core wire lol.

As far as the tank, Im in the Detroit area and have a gas supply company that deals in pretty much all size tanks or at least the 3 standard small, med, large tanks you normally see on weld/cutting carts.

Edit, yes, its 75%/25% Ar/Co2. Im currently reading thru your thread. Im in ENC currently. Do you weld professionally, it seems like you understand/know a great deal about it.

I know a decent amount but will be focusing on technique and getting familiar with the machine mainly, prior to any "technical" welds
If you ever run out of gas on the weekend, find something else to do until Monday, flux core wire has little to nothing going for it in welding on our trucks. Too heavy for most material found on our trucks, spatters and makes a mess, flux needs to be chipped, dissolved completely away like with stick welding or it will eat thru paint put over it, difficult to control penetration. Best use for flux core is for field welding where it would be difficult to get shielding gas bottle to site and weld appearance doesn't matter, or in outdoors in wind. I highly recommend the ESAB Easy Grind wire in 0.030 for general welding and 0.023 for sheetmetal work. It definitely makes a difference and there is no equivalent in other lines. Well worth ordering/using.
if your welding supplier is big enough and/or is affiliated with the gas brand on the tank (often on the collar around the top of the tank or stamped into tank) you will likely be in luck, Sorry, but there is no such thing as "usual, standard, or small-med-lg" sized gas bottles. There are literally hundreds of sizes and configurations. This is done to force you to return to your initial supplier to exchange the tank when empty, and to allow the refiller (often a large distant depot serving a large area/number of suppliers) to assure their tanks are inspected according to federal requirements/schedule rather than inspecting/certifying/refilling tanks belonging to others (you don't actually "own" a bottle). This is a liability/legal issue.

No, I am not a professional welder. I am a pretty unique individual: professional Masters degreed goldsmith/designer, former US Army chemical-biological-radiological warfare identification and defense instructor, nuclear chemist, lifetime hotrodder, mechanic, welding instructor, wood working instructor, jack of all trades, with a deep intellectual curiosity that causes me to need to explore/examine/understand/experiment/verify everything/anything to my own satisfaction myself. I don't only need to know how to do something, but why to do it that way and verify that it is the best way to do it. I also have a teaching degree and the ability (curse???) to be able to explain in detail in a way that others find easy to understand.
 
  #22  
Old 09-28-2014, 07:36 PM
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Well, a little update.......

I am finally fully moved back to MI. I have been busy the last couple weeks cleaning our house and doing all the pre-cold projects while it is still nice. I have not made any progress on the truck itself. I have however, gathered more parts from where the truck used to be and I am currently waiting on my fenders. Greyhound is taking their sweet time (about 3 weeks to go from LA to Vegas....) As soon as I get those I can start with the IFS mach up. In the mean time I will be running the wiring to my garage for the welder.

Side note: Its my birthday in a week and a half, my wife and family keeps asking what I want to do... I finally told them I want all friday night, saturday and sunday to work on my car lol. I have been restoring my 69 Fastback for an eternity. Its almost ready for paint, need to re-flare my brake lines (learned the hard way that Stainless steel is hard to flare) I will be laying down my American wiring harness, installing the electric fan, adjusting the valves and putting the interior in. I need to lay a few more coats of primer, block and wet sand then it will be time for the spray booth for some orange and black.
 
  #23  
Old 10-08-2014, 09:17 AM
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I have been gathering parts for the truck so I can hit the ground running. I won an auction for a driver rear 51 F1 fender so now I need to find a decent pass rear.

I am still waiting on my fronts, Greyhound is in no hurry I guess. (been over a month)

I rummaged thru my attic and basement, my grandpa, when he was starting to restore the truck, had most of the parts removed, blasted and primed. So everything is in pretty darn good shape. I keep finding boxes of goodies.

What would you all do with the left over stock stuff? I have been considering selling it all. There are 2 new reman water pumps, generator converted to 12V, brake master cyl. stock V8 flathead (needs a rebuild) stock rear axle, stock front axle. These are pretty big and heavy so selling/shipping is tough. I pretty much refuse to scrap it (just cant bring myself to scrap vintage parts)
 
  #24  
Old 10-08-2014, 11:54 AM
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If you haven't checked with Greyhound, might be worth a call. They seem to struggle with tracking.

The left over parts may be helpful to another FTE member. Put an ad in the classified section to describe your collection. I've sold items for nominal prices or just for the shipping to ensure a second life. Like you, I couldn't just scrap my odds and ends. Happily, everything found a new home. Your call either way.
 
  #25  
Old 10-08-2014, 02:58 PM
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I will post them once they're off the truck.

I have emailed greyhound 3 times. That's what it takes to get my parts to be updated/keep going. I didn't expect much for 2 fenders and extensions being shipped 2200 miles for $110 lol.
 
  #26  
Old 10-12-2014, 11:53 PM
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Fenders finally arrived. Usually Grayhound doesn't take that long. I'll forward you pictures of the running boards. Too bad you already have a good fender from eBay bi have a pair of very good and solid fenders.
 
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Old 10-13-2014, 10:11 AM
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  #28  
Old 10-15-2014, 05:54 PM
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I have been juggling projects.

The 51 is moving up the priority list due to a cam failure in my newly built 331 for my 1969 Mustang....

I have some running boards on the way and still in search of a 51-52 right rear fender. The fender is the last panel that I need to have a complete truck.

I have started and continued to WD40 all of the front and rear suspension fasteners. Depending on how my 331 goes, I might be tearing the F1 front suspension apart and mocking up the (narrowed) panther IFS.

I also need to run 220 to my garage to get my welder ready to use. I have everything that I need except time...
 
  #29  
Old 10-15-2014, 06:30 PM
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Note1: with today's oils roller lifter cams are pretty much a necessity to live. flat tappets are about extinct.
Note 2: WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil. Nearly useless. Use Liquid Wrench or Pblaster if you want fasteners to come apart.
 
  #30  
Old 10-15-2014, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by AXracer
Note1: with today's oils roller lifter cams are pretty much a necessity to live.
Note 2: WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil. Nearly useless. Use Liquid Wrench or Pblaster if you want fasteners to come apart.

Yea, learned that the hard way. break in oil, comps assembly lube, followed the process, changed the oil and filter, zinc additive, followed the process again, changed the oil and filter. I started the car up for about 15 minutes for a third time to check the exhaust and cooling system for leaks and let the car sit. I removed the dist each time and primed the oil pump (valve cover removed) until there was oil at the head/rockers. The engine sat in the car while I was stationed in NC and now that im back in MI I decided it was time to adjust the lifter preload. Pulled the intake and valve covers.... decided to take the lifters out one by one to check the cam lobes (since they are prone to failure) and couldn't get 1/2 of them out. The cam at the bottoms and that was that. $5k down the toilet.

I have had pretty good luck with WD on the truck. I have PB and Liquidwrench at the house as well. Normally if I can cant get a nut/bolt out I use a little heat and quench with PB (always did the trick for stuck suspension components when I did alignments all day)
 


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