finally! official thread!
#181
I think your problem is going to be enough signal through the boosters of a 600.
The shot might cover transition.
Nothing will get the charge to atomize correctly with the throttle closed.
I'm suprised anyone would bother to sleeve *two* cylinders in a block that is this common.
That's gotta cost more than another core would.
Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing what you come home with and how the build comes together!
The shot might cover transition.
Nothing will get the charge to atomize correctly with the throttle closed.
I'm suprised anyone would bother to sleeve *two* cylinders in a block that is this common.
That's gotta cost more than another core would.
Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing what you come home with and how the build comes together!
#182
Yeah I know! And they bought 8 390 hyperuetic pistons, valves for two different heads, two sets of lifters, and all that other stuff and then not even use it?
Motor should be done mid next week...so I'm going to see if I can get Friday off to come up here and get it. And install next weekend.
I'm excited about this too!
Motor should be done mid next week...so I'm going to see if I can get Friday off to come up here and get it. And install next weekend.
I'm excited about this too!
#183
well here's the pictures!
heres my carb
here i was at the machine shop.
as you can see the corner was a little higher and you can see the "glass" smooth vs the old "smooth" and why he machined the block and the head.
also he added a 30 degree angle on the valves so help them seat better/deeper.
my combustion chamber is 75cc
piston sits .014 below deck
and a 107 icl
spotted this at the local jy today
heres my carb
here i was at the machine shop.
as you can see the corner was a little higher and you can see the "glass" smooth vs the old "smooth" and why he machined the block and the head.
also he added a 30 degree angle on the valves so help them seat better/deeper.
my combustion chamber is 75cc
piston sits .014 below deck
and a 107 icl
spotted this at the local jy today
#184
"heres my dilemma
my t18 measures:
bellhousing to bolts(3" apart) is 22 inches
bellhousing to tcase seal is 25.5"
zf5 is
bellhousing to bolts (3" apart) is 25"
bellhousing to tcase seal is 29"
the mount betweent he motor and the crossmember is an inch taller on the zf5 then the t18
my dads zf5 which fits the "three hole" xmember has bolts that are 2.5" apart.
"three hole"
i couldnt find the p/n and when put in my frame(bolts hanging through the holes, the "ears wouldnt line up with my frame, however i didnt think to try my current ears..duh)
this was on the ear i pulled from my truck
this was on the ear i painted
heres the difference betweent he ears and the crossmembers
as installed in the truck(from the hood view)
so as far as the drilling of the holes...
do i do it like this? and move it back a bolt and drill new holes on the top and bottom of the frame?
or am i confused on that?
i hope i helped you guys help me! lol
my t18 measures:
bellhousing to bolts(3" apart) is 22 inches
bellhousing to tcase seal is 25.5"
zf5 is
bellhousing to bolts (3" apart) is 25"
bellhousing to tcase seal is 29"
the mount betweent he motor and the crossmember is an inch taller on the zf5 then the t18
my dads zf5 which fits the "three hole" xmember has bolts that are 2.5" apart.
"three hole"
i couldnt find the p/n and when put in my frame(bolts hanging through the holes, the "ears wouldnt line up with my frame, however i didnt think to try my current ears..duh)
this was on the ear i pulled from my truck
this was on the ear i painted
heres the difference betweent he ears and the crossmembers
as installed in the truck(from the hood view)
so as far as the drilling of the holes...
do i do it like this? and move it back a bolt and drill new holes on the top and bottom of the frame?
or am i confused on that?
i hope i helped you guys help me! lol
#185
I can't find those crossmembers in the catalog, but then I'm not finding any crossmembers in the catalog. So I'm confused.
I think you are going to have to install the ZF and see where the crossmember wants to fit. That's because the frame curves a bit and it may not work with that crossmember. Or, it might.
I think you are going to have to install the ZF and see where the crossmember wants to fit. That's because the frame curves a bit and it may not work with that crossmember. Or, it might.
#187
Motor news!
Should be done this week, and the push rods are on their way!
Had to have 10.35" push rods ordered.
Also the springs I had were too weak with just the one, and too much for both of them, so he machined the inner step down a little.
Pictures will follow but I've having issues removing my wires and the computer set up.
I have ALOT of needed wires that go to it.
Should be done this week, and the push rods are on their way!
Had to have 10.35" push rods ordered.
Also the springs I had were too weak with just the one, and too much for both of them, so he machined the inner step down a little.
Pictures will follow but I've having issues removing my wires and the computer set up.
I have ALOT of needed wires that go to it.
#188
#190
Dylan,
How do you get to a 10.35"pushrod?
I thought stock was 10.136 and you had both the head and block milled....
Why are they not shorter, if anything?
Would the single springs have coilbound if you were to shim the seats?
I usually try to avoid double springs unless they are the type to ride one another.
This is done to avoid harmonics.
Not sure what you're doing with your cam.
Sounds pretty aggressive for the old 4.9.
How do you get to a 10.35"pushrod?
I thought stock was 10.136 and you had both the head and block milled....
Why are they not shorter, if anything?
Would the single springs have coilbound if you were to shim the seats?
I usually try to avoid double springs unless they are the type to ride one another.
This is done to avoid harmonics.
Not sure what you're doing with your cam.
Sounds pretty aggressive for the old 4.9.
#191