1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

finally! official thread!

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  #136  
Old 08-22-2014, 10:16 AM
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It sure is a good view of the 208 internals!
Chris could sticky it, though it might be more helpful if there were part names like 'shift fork' instead of 'thingy'.
I too, would Rep you if I could Dylan.

Edit number
 
  #137  
Old 08-22-2014, 10:30 AM
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Thanks!

And if I knew what they were called I wouldn't have been worried about doing the rebuild! Lol
Maybe someone who knows can edit it all for me?or when I'm done with my stuff I'll go back and do my best to use proper names and such.

It's a 208, not a 204
 
  #138  
Old 08-22-2014, 10:47 AM
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My. Bad... I'm on a phone..
I thought Gary sent you the breakout???
 
  #139  
Old 08-22-2014, 11:24 AM
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H did.
But I'm on the phone too! only time I'm not is when I post pictures.

I'll go back and edit it all one day
 
  #140  
Old 08-22-2014, 11:48 AM
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I scroll up and down.
Go to reply, you lose the thread on mobile.
Darn phone suggests and autocorrects the wrong stuff.
Pics are tiny on here.
(Though I do post pics from the phone all the time.
It can be frustrating for someone as dated as me to deal with this as my only internet connection.
Tethering kills my battery in an hour.
 
  #141  
Old 08-22-2014, 11:51 AM
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Oh I know what Ya mean I just got a new phone and it had to learn my words and man did that suck!

I put kroil all over my frame and crossmember to clean and look for cracks in my steering box frame area.
I'll pressure wash it again, let it sun dry then paint it all black and new looking! Sounds good?
 
  #142  
Old 08-22-2014, 01:01 PM
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you sure are doing a thorough job.
it's looking great!
 
  #143  
Old 08-22-2014, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dylansf23
Oh I know what Ya mean I just got a new phone and it had to learn my words and man did that suck!

I put kroil all over my frame and crossmember to clean and look for cracks in my steering box frame area.
I'll pressure wash it again, let it sun dry then paint it all black and new looking! Sounds good?
You can't see where the typical crack is w/o taking the sector box loose. You don't even have to pull the Pitman arm, just get the box away from the frame and look at the back bottom corner area.
 
  #144  
Old 08-22-2014, 01:30 PM
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It started as my dd, but then it went to a mud toy and then I realized how good of a truck it was so I'm restomoding her.

Plus it's all taken apart so I might as well since I'm already there and everything is open.

The bottom bolt area? Like under the steering gear?
I don't think I have a crack then! And it had 36" then 33" and now back to 36"!

I guess I'm doing good! And the back story was true on this beauty.

my dad taught me if I'm gonna do something, do it right. And it shows! Like my tree days of Sandblasting and painting that I'm not finished with yet.
 
  #145  
Old 08-22-2014, 01:37 PM
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Yes, from the bottom bolt hole directly under the sector box. The box has a very hard edge to it and the forces on the steering cause the box to try to twist clockwise when looking down on it, and that creates a stress riser at that spot.
 

Last edited by Gary Lewis; 08-22-2014 at 01:38 PM. Reason: This Windows 8 machine doesn't put periods in like my iPhone does.
  #146  
Old 08-22-2014, 06:32 PM
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Well, picked up my zf5
It looks a little rusty(the input shaft, and the spring around it.
I need an ipb to figure out the names of those parts to replace

As far as putting my hydraulic line on the internal, I'll bleed it under the truck, but I'll need to figure all that out

Pics will follow my wire cutting
 
  #147  
Old 08-22-2014, 09:28 PM
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Well I was at AutoZone and some guy asked me if I wanted rear hub caps for my psd bullet holes.

Well I go there and he just sold a cclb f350 4x4 5.8 5speed....literally everything I wanted and needed for my truck.

Uhh...Lol and I picked up a front drive shaft for my buds 84 f,150 and a 10k winch...I only spent a hundo between all of that....

But that dang f350...he got for 500$ and took the motor out and sold the rest for a grand...<\3...ughhh lol
 
  #148  
Old 08-22-2014, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dylansf23
Well, picked up my zf5
It looks a little rusty(the input shaft, and the spring around it.
I need an ipb to figure out the names of those parts to replace

As far as putting my hydraulic line on the internal, I'll bleed it under the truck, but I'll need to figure all that out

Pics will follow my wire cutting
I found a trick for bleeding those internal slaves. Pressure bleeder hooked up, and pumped up, prior to connecting the quick coupler at the slave/bellhousing. Then open the bleeder valve. I suppose you could open the bleeder first, but that could get messy, quick. I break it loose, and just snug it enough to hold, then hook up the line and open it right after getting the line snapped in.
That's how I do them at the shop, and it makes bleeding the system super simple. Since there's already pressure in the line, air from the slave doesn't try to travel up the line, into the master.
Of course, a pressure bleeder isn't in everyone's budget. But, they can be made cheaply from a garden "pump up" sprayer, and a spare cap for the resivoir......
 
  #149  
Old 08-23-2014, 03:40 PM
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I'll have to give that a try.

Took a break to do research and cool off. 95° is warm after a day outside

I'm not sure which crossmember I need? I'm confused on that.

Also painted the front of the truck and removed the slave cylinder. Should there be a seal or something between it and the trans?
 
  #150  
Old 08-23-2014, 06:09 PM
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I used the same crossmember as my T19.
Shifted it the width of one set of bolt holes ( ie, front bolt in rear rail hole, drill new rear hole)
What you need is the upper stays that angle back.

But this is a BB gearbox, and it has already been pointed out there are lenght differences.
 


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