This part, which appears to be a cover over the starter bendix, is in bad shape on my truck. I have not seen any replacement parts in any catalogs or from any vendors. My parts DVD shows it on page 148 as PN 6677 if that helps anyone. Looking for a replacement in reasonable condition. Maybe numberdummy will chime in with his expertise. Thanks in advance to everyone.

 

I may have one used and possibly one NOS. I can check on Sunday.

 

Please do and PM me with what you find. thanks.

 

Still looking for this part. Have been away from my truck for a while but back at it now and would like to locate this. Panel Man-if you have it, please PM me a price. thanks everybody.

 

The cups were not designed to be removed or replaced. They were rolled into a groove in the bellhousing, not something you can really do yourself even if you can get the old one out and find a new one that wasn't damaged during removal. Best bet may be to cut off the bad part, and weld a thinwall tube to what's left, with a cap on the end.

 

Thanks Ross. Good idea. I had not thought of that.

 

A piece of capped exhaust tubing should work. Comes in many sizes and a size a little too small can be expanded to the right size with an inexpensive tail pipe expander. Clean the bellhousing and tube oil free with brake cleaner or acetone, and install with metal filled JB weld or high temp silicone.

 

Left: Basic part numbers only shown in illustrations.

Right: The text section is required to get the complete part number by adding the apropos prefix and suffix (if applicable).

8RT-6677 .. Cover-Starter Pinion - 1948/52 239 / Obsolete

No Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any.

 

Thanks numbers dummy. I think I will use AX racers idea and weld or JB weld a piece of exhaust pipe to the stub which I will cut off. Sounds like the easiest fix and this is not a full blown correct restoration, just an old guy fixing up an old truck.

 

Now that I see the picture, someone with a bead roller and even some muffler shops could roll the bead into a piece of exhaust tubing.

 

Which is older, you or your truck?

I assume there's a lot of old guys in this forum.

Most are fixin' up these old trucks, but at least one of them is just lookin' up parts for these old trucks.

The last time I fixed up one a these old trucks ('56 F100), I was a young guy...but that was 46 years ago.

 

Also kind of nice the parts manual gives you the dimensions... 2 45/64" diameter X 4 9/64" long.

 

Uh...you better take another look-see at the part number listed with these dimensions, because...

And btw: Henry didn't get it right...unless you're referring to "The Deuce." Henry died in 1947 and had little to do with FoMoCo after 1944.

 

Just to clarify my suggestion: My solution would be to remove the stub completely by collapsing it inwards towards the center with a cold chisel until it can be removed then find a length of exhaust pipe as close to the right diameter as reasonable, then use a muffler expander to increase the diameter of the new pipe until it was a snug fit in the hole in the bell housing. Cut the new pipe to the correct length and weld a 16 ga sheet cap onto the pipe to close off one end. Now glue the new capped pipe into the bell housing. If you wanted to you could bend a piece of 1/8" rod into a ring the right diameter to slip over the new pipe and weld from the capped side to resemble ande function as a stop like the bead on the original. Only a totally **** restorer would notice the difference.
I guess the remnant is long enough that it could be cut off clean to solid metal leaving it as long as possible (assuming it isn't totally eaten away then see above) and weld an extension and cap onto the stub. The only hesitation I'd have is to make sure you weld on the extension in short tacks and allow each to cool so you don't chance heat cracking the bell housing. Before I did anything tho I'd first call H&H flatheads and see what they suggest, I'm sure they have dealt with this issue a number of times.

 

AX, I think you are misunderstanding. There is a groove in the BH that the tube is rolled into once it is in place. It would have to be done with a roller about 1/4" wide, at the specific place where the groove is. Too much pressure and the BH will crack.

Joe, the dimension is for the 6-banger, is my interpretation. I can measure mine if needed.

This is a totally non-structural part, and there are times it would be nice to be able to access the starter drive (hung starter). A flexible plastic cap like they use on the ends of pipe is all that's needed. Or a piece of inner tube clamped on and closed up on the end.