My side business requires me to go to Fairbanks for a couple days every month. This year will be my first time in Fairbanks during the winter. At times the temps can hit -60*F, although I certainly don't expect them to be that cold all the time. -30*F certainly isn't unreasonable to expect though.

I will usually have access to a plug in, and my truck is equipped with a factory block heater, and a wolverine oil pan, transmission pan, and passenger side battery heater (I could always get another heater for the driver side). Last winter I had a custom made winter front that has a flap which shoves down through the bumper to cover the trans cooler.

I have an aux idle controller, and additionally a DP Tuner with 1100 high idle and 1100 high idle with the EVBP turned on.

I need to make sure the truck starts/runs/drives, so I can get back home. Would it be best for me to either....

A. plug in as soon as I shut the truck down

B. leave it running full time in high idle

At the 1100 idle (without the evbp on), would my truck be able to maintain a warm enough temp for sustained idling and produce heat in the cab? I would be worried about leaving the evbp on for hours and hours at a time.

 

My truck has Ebpv delet and at the -30 temps we see, it will not stay warm at idle. I would plug in as soon as you shut down. Also run straight No. 1 fuel.

 

How warm will your truck get idling at -30? Are you high idling or just stock idle?

 

You still have your intake heater? you figure at that temp everything can help. twin battery blankets would help, and I would mix my coolant on the high side 60-40 just in case, diesel site has the 203 t-stat, which I would recommend if not already done, made a big difference when I installed mine with the coolant filter, heat in the cab is much better. Thats just about all you can do, burn no.1 fuel oil which they have up there, use anti-gel as well mixed stronger than what it says on the bottle, Do you still have the heater in the fuel bowl? that will bring warm fuel back to the tank thru the return. I see alot of ford PSD up that way, so they must run ok, on a super cold night or wind chills expected to be sub below -30, if you can enclose it, or I mean cover the truck to block that wind, keeping indoors would be ideal even if you have to pay someone to store it. you know these trucks when its just 10 degree's out. So be careful up there and also enjoy the wildlife on the last frontier.

 

The only thing I've read here that I would counter is the 203-degree T-stat. With all due respect to the "right and honorable" David7.3: If you limit when the radiator sees warm coolant, you're throwing the radiator out in the cold like a cat on Christmas. I would want my radiator to share in the warmth - because those temps are challenging for the antifreeze. This is not to say David7.3 is incorrect. I can be full of something you wouldn't want near your nose, but I offer it up as something to consider.

As for the antifreeze mix, just follow the chart on the container. There are waterless engine coolants available on the market, Bfife has this in his truck[/B] - you may want to look into that.

If you run feet-only on the heater, this will not run the A/C compressor. You want the A/C compressor to run, because this helps to dry the air in the cab, plus it warms the nose (a little) on the truck. Using the heat with the dash vents or the defroster will make the compressor run.

 

Get a Cold Front or Fia or some type of grill cover. They really help.

 

The stock idle will ramp up when things get cold. If I come on off the road and let it idle, it will actually cool down. I still get warm air from the heater but not warm enough to keep my crewcab comfortable. It does not cool to the point of wetstacking but it does cool.

Don't worry about running the AC. Refrigerant has a boiling point of -22. At those temps, for safety reasons the system will not run anyway.

Another thought: you could also take the intake snorkel off so the engine is breathing warmer underhood air. Use your winter front.

At about -10 and below your exhaust stream will be visible. Don't worry about that. At -30 and below, it will leave an exhaust trail about 50 feet long.

 

I would also use a synthetic oil in the engine if you aren't already.

 

When I use to deliver produce to Warroad, MN at -30F (which is kid stuff compared to -60 ) I would run the truck all night if I HAD to have it running in the morning. If I would LIKE to get it started in the morning, I plugged it in. Of course this was a 12 liter Detroit (8V92TTA) and a couple of times no matter how much I LIKED to get it started in the morning it would not without a tarp and a kerosene heater. Fill the truck up with Fairbanks fuel when you get there. I'd add a Arctic Fox fuel tank heater too.

I think I would haul along a large tarp big enough to cover the truck up and a salamander heater. That way, I could likely help myself if frozen up. A generator might be handy too.

 

You can install a Viper alarm (or similar) w/ remote start and program it to run every two-three hours. That will keep fluids moving and warm.

As far as "wind chill", it does not effect items such as our truck. The temp is the temp. Wind chill is what the body feels as the heat is carried away from it by the wind. The wind will help cool the truck down faster than no wind, but it will never be colder than the thermometer says to the truck.