Well, the knocking engine is out and on the stand. Tomorrow morning the pan comes off and I'll see how bad the bearing(s) is/are. Still have to find a decent micrometer somewhere to check the bearing journals. Here are toady's truck **** images. Engine pulls are boring, so only three pics of it; more to follow tomorrow . . .

 

Well listen to you! Engine pull pics are boring! Haven't you come a long way lol!

 

You want I should mail you a micrometer?

 

But pics of an engine pull are boring, unless there's a connecting rod sticking out somewhere or something like that. Besides, nobody wants to see pics of my boots sticking out from under a truck

One thing happened that wasn't so boring. I smacked the end of my air ratchet against the frame and the fitting broke off. The end of the hose whipping around whacked me in the forehead, lol.

 

I like your paint scheme. Looks like a fire service truck.

 

I appreciate the offer, but it's something I've been needing to buy anyhow. If I can't find one locally, I might take you up on that, though so I can at least check the crankshaft.

 

Thanks Jason!

 

Fleabay, you can get onesy twosey or whole sets on the cheap.
If fortune truly favors the bold..

Harbor Freight does sell 0-1, 1-2, and i think 2-3 mics.
Inch pounds and foot pounds are one thing...

A couple to three percent variance when im playing down in the tenths... naw... mitutoyo, starrett, b&s...
You might want to peek at some gauge blocks too... like big parallels. Use them to quick check the decks and heads for variance. If you cant find any gaps using a light then you should be fine. If there is enough for light to shine under the gauge block... consider having them trued.

Getting ahead of myself.

Measuring the small bores for the lifters is pretty easy with a set of telescoping i.d. mics. They look like a T made of tubular metal. To use them, unlock and colapse to "load" them..lock.. place in the bore. Unlock. Find the point of highest resistance moving the contact points back and forth just slightly and lock again. Very gently retract the mic and measure between the contact points with appropriate o.d. micrometer.

Taps to clean out all the different sized threaded holes on both block and heads.

Drawing a blank on any other stuff right off hand...

Anxious to see the progress!

 

Fleabay, you can get onesy twosey or whole sets on the cheap.
If fortune truly favors the bold..

Harbor Freight does sell 0-1, 1-2, and i think 2-3 mics.
Inch pounds and foot pounds are one thing...

A couple to three percent variance when im playing down in the tenths... naw... mitutoyo, starrett, b&s...
You might want to peek at some gauge blocks too... like big parallels. Use them to quick check the decks and heads for variance. If you cant find any gaps using a light then you should be fine. If there is enough for light to shine under the gauge block... consider having them trued.

Getting ahead of myself.

Measuring the small bores for the lifters is pretty easy with a set of telescoping i.d. mics. They look like a T made of tubular metal. To use them, unlock and colapse to "load" them..lock.. place in the bore. Unlock. Find the point of highest resistance moving the contact points back and forth just slightly and lock again. Very gently retract the mic and measure between the contact points with appropriate o.d. micrometer.

Taps to clean out all the different sized threaded holes on both block and heads.

Drawing a blank on any other stuff right off hand...

Anxious to see the progress!

 

Fixed it for ya.

Would Plastigage be useful in this case?

 

Following this one. Really like to know what went wrong. You should be able to see a bad crank bearing really quick. Please take pictures of everything to post. Like to see the top end along with the bottom end as well.

 

I noticed you kept the AC compressor on the engine. Certainly nice not to have to tie it all off to the side, but you'll have to have the system drawn down and charged again right?

I'm learning here - so pulling the hood and leaving the grill in place is possible with an engine hoist that has enough throw, I take it. I had not seen an engine pull yet where the grill was in place. Looks like all the coolers came out though?

That's a nice looking engine compartment.

 

Yes. The evaporator coil has a small leak, so I'm going to change it while I'm doing everything else.

All the coolers have to come out to have enough clearance front to back, but it does clear the grille, even with all the accessory brackets on the engine.

Thanks! The pictures are kind of deceiving, though. It isn't too bad for the age of the truck, but it does need a good cleaning. It was too cold to clean it last time the engine was out, but this time I don't have an excuse not to.

 

The grille comes out in like 30 seconds. I would have done the extra 30 seconds - mostly because I'm unlucky and I would break it.

 

Subcribing.... looking fwd to learning something here. Thanks for starting this thread.