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The Carnage Has Begun

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Old 08-05-2014, 07:22 PM
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The Carnage Has Begun

Well, the knocking engine is out and on the stand. Tomorrow morning the pan comes off and I'll see how bad the bearing(s) is/are. Still have to find a decent micrometer somewhere to check the bearing journals. Here are toady's truck **** images. Engine pulls are boring, so only three pics of it; more to follow tomorrow . . .

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Old 08-05-2014, 07:59 PM
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Well listen to you! Engine pull pics are boring! Haven't you come a long way lol!
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Old 08-05-2014, 08:06 PM
Dan V Dan V is offline
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You want I should mail you a micrometer?
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Old 08-05-2014, 08:09 PM
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But pics of an engine pull are boring, unless there's a connecting rod sticking out somewhere or something like that. Besides, nobody wants to see pics of my boots sticking out from under a truck

One thing happened that wasn't so boring. I smacked the end of my air ratchet against the frame and the fitting broke off. The end of the hose whipping around whacked me in the forehead, lol.
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Boeing 747-400, Early '99 F350 4x4 std. cab, 225k mi.
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Old 08-05-2014, 08:10 PM
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I like your paint scheme. Looks like a fire service truck.
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  #6  
Old 08-05-2014, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan V View Post
You want I should mail you a micrometer?
I appreciate the offer, but it's something I've been needing to buy anyhow. If I can't find one locally, I might take you up on that, though so I can at least check the crankshaft.
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Boeing 747-400, Early '99 F350 4x4 std. cab, 225k mi.
1995/Late 1999 Frankenmotor engine installed . . .
2326 Air Filter, NAPA 4912 fuel pre-filter (Stanadyne FM100), 2 cent mod . . .
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Old 08-05-2014, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by HKusp View Post
I like your paint scheme. Looks like a fire service truck.
Thanks Jason!
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1995/Late 1999 Frankenmotor engine installed . . .
2326 Air Filter, NAPA 4912 fuel pre-filter (Stanadyne FM100), 2 cent mod . . .
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:42 PM
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Fleabay, you can get onesy twosey or whole sets on the cheap.
If fortune truly favors the bold..

Harbor Freight does sell 0-1, 1-2, and i think 2-3 mics.
Inch pounds and foot pounds are one thing...

A couple to three percent variance when im playing down in the tenths... naw... mitutoyo, starrett, b&s...
You might want to peek at some gauge blocks too... like big parallels. Use them to quick check the decks and heads for variance. If you cant find any gaps using a light then you should be fine. If there is enough for light to shine under the gauge block... consider having them trued.

Getting ahead of myself.

Measuring the small bores for the lifters is pretty easy with a set of telescoping i.d. mics. They look like a T made of tubular metal. To use them, unlock and colapse to "load" them..lock.. place in the bore. Unlock. Find the point of highest resistance moving the contact points back and forth just slightly and lock again. Very gently retract the mic and measure between the contact points with appropriate o.d. micrometer.

Taps to clean out all the different sized threaded holes on both block and heads.

Drawing a blank on any other stuff right off hand...

Anxious to see the progress!
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:43 PM
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Fleabay, you can get onesy twosey or whole sets on the cheap.
If fortune truly favors the bold..

Harbor Freight does sell 0-1, 1-2, and i think 2-3 mics.
Inch pounds and foot pounds are one thing...

A couple to three percent variance when im playing down in the tenths... naw... mitutoyo, starrett, b&s...
You might want to peek at some gauge blocks too... like big parallels. Use them to quick check the decks and heads for variance. If you cant find any gaps using a light then you should be fine. If there is enough for light to shine under the gauge block... consider having them trued.

Getting ahead of myself.

Measuring the small bores for the lifters is pretty easy with a set of telescoping i.d. mics. They look like a T made of tubular metal. To use them, unlock and colapse to "load" them..lock.. place in the bore. Unlock. Find the point of highest resistance moving the contact points back and forth just slightly and lock again. Very gently retract the mic and measure between the contact points with appropriate o.d. micrometer.

Taps to clean out all the different sized threaded holes on both block and heads.

Drawing a blank on any other stuff right off hand...

Anxious to see the progress!
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  #10  
Old 08-05-2014, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christof13T View Post
Fleabay, you can get onesy twosey or whole sets on the cheap.
If fortune truly favors the bold..

Harbor Freight does sell 0-1, 1-2, and i think 2-3 mics.
Inch pounds and foot pounds are one thing...

A couple to three percent variance when im playing down in the tenths... naw... mitutoyo, starrett, b&s...
You might want to peek at some gauge blocks too... like big parallels. Use them to quick check the decks and heads for variance. If you cant find any gaps using a light then you should be fine. If there is enough for light to shine under the gauge block... consider having them trued.

Getting ahead of myself.

Measuring the small bores for the lifters is pretty easy with a set of telescoping i.d. mics. They look like a T made of tubular metal. To use them, unlock and colapse to "load" them..lock.. place in the bore. Unlock. Find the point of highest resistance moving the contact points back and forth just slightly and lock again. Very gently retract the mic and measure between the contact points with appropriate o.d. micrometer.

Taps to clean out all the different sized threaded holes on both block and heads.

Drawing a blank on any other stuff right off hand...

Copious beer.

Anxious to see the progress!
Fixed it for ya.

Would Plastigage be useful in this case?
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:44 PM
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Following this one. Really like to know what went wrong. You should be able to see a bad crank bearing really quick. Please take pictures of everything to post. Like to see the top end along with the bottom end as well.
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Old 08-05-2014, 11:34 PM
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I noticed you kept the AC compressor on the engine. Certainly nice not to have to tie it all off to the side, but you'll have to have the system drawn down and charged again right?

I'm learning here - so pulling the hood and leaving the grill in place is possible with an engine hoist that has enough throw, I take it. I had not seen an engine pull yet where the grill was in place. Looks like all the coolers came out though?

That's a nice looking engine compartment.
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Old 08-06-2014, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWST View Post
I noticed you kept the AC compressor on the engine. Certainly nice not to have to tie it all off to the side, but you'll have to have the system drawn down and charged again right?
Yes. The evaporator coil has a small leak, so I'm going to change it while I'm doing everything else.

Quote:
I'm learning here - so pulling the hood and leaving the grill in place is possible with an engine hoist that has enough throw, I take it. I had not seen an engine pull yet where the grill was in place. Looks like all the coolers came out though?
All the coolers have to come out to have enough clearance front to back, but it does clear the grille, even with all the accessory brackets on the engine.

Quote:
That's a nice looking engine compartment.
Thanks! The pictures are kind of deceiving, though. It isn't too bad for the age of the truck, but it does need a good cleaning. It was too cold to clean it last time the engine was out, but this time I don't have an excuse not to.
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Old 08-06-2014, 06:36 AM
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The grille comes out in like 30 seconds. I would have done the extra 30 seconds - mostly because I'm unlucky and I would break it.
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Old 08-06-2014, 08:41 AM
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Subcribing.... looking fwd to learning something here. Thanks for starting this thread.
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