Fire truck or water hose used to put out the fire? Moisture sitting on the walls of those walls or inside that engine? Doesnt take much on a Diesel but a few drops to bend stuff on the bottom end. Hell even gas will do the trick. And bend a rod and or crank. I know cause I was a Mechanic in the Army and operators would do it all the time.

 

Well, over the weekend I dropped the old, tired, low compression engine back in. At least I can use the truck again while I get things sorted out with the "new" engine. If this trend keeps up, I'm going to name the truck "Yo-Yo" or "Duncan".

 

Oh, and the machine shop estimates I've gotten so far have both been in the 1200-1500 range. Bore .010", align hone (if needed), check con rods, new cam bearings, general clean, prep and make-ready, no sleeves, and no reassembly included. Seem high to anyone?

 

You've got good hoist finess, Pikachu. No grille removal, no rad support removal, no hood removal, and you dropped in an 1,100 lb motor like a suppository. Impressive!

 

Dose that include new main and rod bearing, pistons and rings? If so its about right.
Going to need a lot of gaskets also. And if I went that far, do the heads. Impressive work with that engine in and out.

 

That price point just isn't possible...heck the rebuild kit from RiffRaff is that much...with no machine work.

 

Looks like a garage door spring is in order too from what I see in the background

 

[QUOTE=Dan V;14651250]That price point just isn't possible...heck the rebuild kit from RiffRaff is that much...with no machine work.[/QUOT


Seems to me you need the pistons to get a good bore job. Riffraff kit has everything, all gaskets, etc., I would think balancing should be included for that price also. If there just hot tanking, boring and putting in cam bearing its to high.

 

Thanks. To be fair, the upper crossmember is out. I don't think it would come out and go in with that in place.

 

Thank you. That price includes no hard parts at all; just the machine work.

 

That whole frame could be removed, actually. When the spring broke, the overhead was removed and barn doors installed. Good eye, though!

 

Pickachu,
When you say the engine you are putting back in has low compression, how low is it? what is the cylinder compression numbers?

 

The compressor wheel showed the engine was dusted (thanks a lot, early '99 air filter box!), and #7 was the lowest at about 280 or so. The rest were in the 375-400 range. The readings were taken at sea level.

 

Pikachu,
Looks I like I'm going down the same road right now but mine has a spun #6 rod bearing. Looks like we shopped at the same store for the cherry picker and engine stand. I've gotten everything down to the bare block right now and ready to start checking crank and cam, etc. Where did you find the engine spec's for what's standard and how much wear is acceptable? I've tried to search the internet but haven't had much luck. Do you have a spec sheet you could send? Thanks

 

I agree "I'm impressed!"
I am glad you at least got the truck back on the road. Sure the engine might have issues but the truck is rolling down the road.