You have a lot good things in the truck for that 7000 jag IFS efi it will be a great driver.

 

Hey Dave,
Hang in there! I agree with Pweng - you are just about there with a
very nice daily driver truck! Our rack leaked like a sieve as well on start up - I think the seals just dry up if it sits for a bit.

Just 100 degrees here today - starting to cool off!

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Agreed, but from what I have read the jag racks are known leakers, but this rack had marks on it like it had already been rebuilt so I didnt expect it. I think I have everything now to finish the truck other than making tail pipes, but that will not stop me from driving it.
Got my O2 bungs in the mail so time to finish up the exhaust enough to get the truck started up.

*** Just got an email from the rebuilders, they refunded my money because they don't have a rebuildable core. I am going to get the truck running and see if getting some fluid to the seals helps any, if not I can mail them a core and have them rebuild one. I have a few here on parts cars, I just assume they all leak.
Ben did you end up rebuilding your rack or did it seal up after it ran awhile?

 

Mr Gasket has just come out with some new header gaskets and bolts that are supposed to work really well.

 

Aside: I remember when Mr Gasket first started. The Hrudka (sp?) brothers were young drag racers out of OH. They were tired of replacing header gaskets after every event so the worked to find a solution. They brought their station wagon tow car/track motel, full of their gaskets to major drag race events in the N east to supplement their racing where they become known as the (Mr) Gasket guys at the tracks since many didn't know how to pronounce their name. The gaskets worked, lasted a whole season, and the business took off. Later they bought out Hurst. They were real nice guys.

 

Yep, I have seen the ads but no reviews yet. I want to see how these work since they are torque and go. Decent headers now seem to have much thicker flanges than the older stuff which should help as well. I mostly use exhaust manifolds anymore with stock type engines, but I have to say these fenderwell headers made life super easy for fitment.

 

Dave, who did you contact about the rebuild and what kind of cost did they quote? just trying to look ahead... just in case.

 

I searched for rebuilders in my area and found Quality rebuilders in NJ, they list the rebuilt rack for around $200 plus shipping. I assume to send them one and have it rebuilt would be about the same, the seal kit alone is around $70.
I have also been told that Phoenix Rack and Axle in Arizona rebuilds them as well, you may be able to find a company closer to you that does it.
You can also get rebuilt racks on ebay but they are around $300. All places require a core if you buy a rebuilt unit.
It is getting late in the season, so if it turns out I need to get a rack rebuilt I will just do it over the winter. I want to get this truck on the road.

 

O2 bungs welded on today



Since I bought the painted and not coated headers in case I had to modify them I got some of this stuff to try out



Blasted the headers



This paint has no information on reduction, but instructions read like it is to be sprayed. Mixed it up in the can and it is as thick as mud, had to cut it with some enamel reducer just to get it sprayable, and even then I only cut it enough that it was like spraying high build primer. We will see how it works.

 

Some pics from recent work

Exhaust installed on both sides, O2 sensors mounted upward to keep them from getting ruined from condensation. Tail pipes to come, but this will get the engine started.
I always paint my exhaust black with cheapo spray paint after a wipe down with reducer, never gets hot enough to burn off. I dont like to see the exhaust so I tuck it up and black it out.



Back to the leaking tower seal on the XJ6 rack.
Found that the tower rack seal is sold on its own, but prices are all over the place, up to $20+ dollars. I found a supplier that had them for $4, bought the 6 they had in stock. As a reference the PN is AEU1248J, searching on this PN will bring it up, but you have to shop for prices. A complete seal kit for a rack rebuild is $60 to $80 depending on who sells it and the tower seal is included.

I left the rack on the truck and tried to see if I could replace the seal without removing the tower, but I couldnt, the steel spacer over the seal was stuck and would not move. So I removed the tower.

Here is the tower after unbolting the PS lines to it and removing the 3 lock nuts holding the tower to the rack.



Slid the tower off the rack. The pinion stayed in place, but not a big deal if it comes out with the tower. These early jag racks do not have a center position, so it doesnt matter where the rack is position wise when you install the pinion. At the bottom sitting around the pinion bearing is a square cut seal which seals the area between the tower and the rack.



Here is the tower on the bench with the locking clip removed, under it is the steel spacer that I could not get out. It was pretty stuck since it was painted in place at some point (probably rebuilt in the past) but I was able to pop it out on the bench. It is basically a washer so try not to pry on it too hard so it doesnt bend.



Here is the clip, spacer, and the tower seal.



Tower surfaces were cleaned, new seal was pushed into place, and then the spacer and clip were installed. The seal and inside of the tower was lubed with ATF and I slid the tower back over the pinion. Make sure the square cut seal at the bottom is in place, and I did have to tap the tower down the last 1/8" or so with a rubber mallet to get the tower seal around the pinion end.
Front wheels were centered by eye, steering column was centered, and steering column reconnected. All U joint set screws got new blue loctite on the threads.
So far it is not leaking, the old seal was dumping fluid just sitting there, but we will see how it is once the engine is started. It cant be worse!

 

I see what you mean, I did a quick search and found then anywhere from $2.25 to $45.00

 

Crazy prices and thanks for the info dave

 

Thanks Dave will keep this as a reference for mine just in case

 

No problem, hope it helps someone. I am going to get up to speed on those racks as I have a few more cars that I want to put the jag IFS in.
Speaking of jags since I seem to have acquired a few I am going to start using the gas fillers. Some refresher pics from awhile ago before I did the actual install.

XJ6 gas filler and stamping cut from the quarter panel



Stamping trimmed and template made



So yesterday it was getting late and I wanted this done, so I banged it out quick.

Template traced



Hole cut and started with the tack welds



More tack welds, nothing more than point and shoot. Never had the trigger pulled more than a second and moved around to avoid warpage.



Welds done and knocked down



some black paint sprayed and scuffed



some brown paint over that and scuffed. Beauty of a rat rod, no need for paint spray outs here
Gas filler done, next will be the fill tube to the tank with the vent line.

 

Gas filler made today after driving all over creation to find a few inches of 2 1/2" fuel hose to connect the jag filler to the exhaust adapter.
Then made the filler pipe which is made of, you guessed it, an exhaust adapter and a cut up 2" piece of exhaust pipe from a swap meet.



Fitted in place.




Then had to add the 1/2" vent line, made that from 1/2" EMT conduit. It was tacked in when the filler was on the truck, then removed, welded, and painted up.



Getting closer, truck should be started up within the next couple of days!