Lets do it again! 1951 Ford F1 LT1 supercharged, 4L80E, EFI, jag IFS, etc..
#1
Lets do it again! 1951 Ford F1 LT1 supercharged, 4L80E, EFI, jag IFS, etc..
So I have been waiting patiently for my cab chop and final body work to be finished on my first F1 build. Normally I do my own body work but I have never chopped a cab, so I passed that job on to a friend with more experience and body work talent than I. Chassis is done and sitting in the corner. So rather than waste time lets start another build!
Here we have it, another 1951 Ford F1 with its share of farmer mods ( check out that spare tire mount ) and some not so farmer mods. No matter, we are going to bring this old girl back from the dead.
So what to do with her? How about a 500+HP supercharged fuel injected LT1. Have to make this one an automatic so the wife can drive it.
Stay tuned!
Here we have it, another 1951 Ford F1 with its share of farmer mods ( check out that spare tire mount ) and some not so farmer mods. No matter, we are going to bring this old girl back from the dead.
So what to do with her? How about a 500+HP supercharged fuel injected LT1. Have to make this one an automatic so the wife can drive it.
Stay tuned!
#4
Thanks!
I actually bought this truck the same time as the first one, they came as a package deal. I wasnt going to start this build yet, but may as well get done what I can while waiting for the cab on the first one.
This one is not getting painted right away, just some CLR and scotchbrite for the body, I want to drive one of these trucks rather than have them sit around. This one will get painted after the first truck is done. Frame and everything underneath will be painted now so there is minimal disassembly for the body paint.
So this one can be called a rat rod or patina rod for now!
This one is not getting painted right away, just some CLR and scotchbrite for the body, I want to drive one of these trucks rather than have them sit around. This one will get painted after the first truck is done. Frame and everything underneath will be painted now so there is minimal disassembly for the body paint.
So this one can be called a rat rod or patina rod for now!
#5
Well this truck has been messed with at some time, farmer or farmers kid, probably his kid by the looks of the work. Looks like an attempt was made to repower the truck with something but no idea what.
Nice job butchering the trans crossmember, looks like I will be making my own.
Small plates were "welded" in, looks like there were some engine mounts welded to them and then cut out. Stock Ford frame mounts are gone.
No brake or clutch pedals, and there is a hole in the firewall for what looks like a modern manual brake master cylinder which is no longer there. Truck is very rust free so I doubt the engine swap was ever finished.
Nice job butchering the trans crossmember, looks like I will be making my own.
Small plates were "welded" in, looks like there were some engine mounts welded to them and then cut out. Stock Ford frame mounts are gone.
No brake or clutch pedals, and there is a hole in the firewall for what looks like a modern manual brake master cylinder which is no longer there. Truck is very rust free so I doubt the engine swap was ever finished.
#7
If you mean the electric it doesnt matter, all getting torn out, nothing savable. Truck will be rewired with stuff on the shelf from previous parts cars. Most of the wiring will be from a 1986 camaro and the engine and trans will have the factory LT1 harness after I modify it to stand alone use. Going low buck as possible and make it safe.
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#10
Right now I am filling up the cart on my Rock Auto account, need another round of jag IFS rebuild parts as well as some parts for the engine rebuild.
#11
#14
Got home from work and ready to get back on the build, only had a little time but wanted to get a look at the drop. Threw on the front wheels and rolled the jag IFS under the truck, set it at 21 1/2" back same as my first truck as a sanity check. Looks right.
Instant 4" drop and will come down 2 to 3 more inches at ride height.
Time to get the nose off the truck and the IFS welded in.
Instant 4" drop and will come down 2 to 3 more inches at ride height.
Time to get the nose off the truck and the IFS welded in.
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