I have a '56 Long Bed up for sale, but am also trying to fix a shifter problem. It has the original Ford-O-Matic column & shifter and I've been able to get it's indicator synced with the C-4 pattern.
BUT- got a worn upper column 'index/mount' plate - the one brazed/sweated/welded to the top of the steering column. So the shifter lever can too easy be knocked out of park - also easily bumped up to reverse from the DR position. The p/n for this "Tube Asm (steering column)" is B6C 3514A. The 'pawl' on the end of the shifter arm is worn also, but not bad like the column plate.
Later models had the shifter 'indexing' cutout as a separate smaller, replaceable plate- I think ? - from what I can discern from internet searches/diagrams.
I've made calls to Mid-Fifties, Desert Valley salvage - waiting for their reply..
Any other input relative to this situation? Has anyone did a reconstruction of this 'indexing' feature? - or?
I imagine one could dremel tool cut/grind out the worn portions & fab a replacement & tediously weld/braze back in. I have 'stitch' welder that can do thin medal, but...
I did a forum search, but no specific similar situation. Don't want to go with greater time/money of other columns, at this point.
I'll try to get a pic if I can. Thanks...johnh

 

can't seem to add pics ??? I just did others Sat am...is all working at fte??

 

I have the exact same issue with the exact same, original column in mine too. Looks like on mine the "Park" detent has been broken off the back plate on the steering column. I have thought about making a detent using a small piece of maybe 1/16" steel plate, mounting it to the back of the bell using the bolts that hold the shift indicator on. And then drilling a hole for the shift pawl to set in while in park. I did this with a much thinner piece of steel strap, and it worked good until the shift pawl hole got chewed up. Thus I am thinking about trying a thicker, stronger piece of steel. My fab skills even on something this small is not all that good. Until I get it fixed, though I do not to let the truck run driverless, without the rear wheels being chocked, and the e-brake on. It has put itself in Reverse before, when the engine was running rough cold. The PO told me never to trust it. I found out he was right! If I can not make it work safely this way, then the only other step if I want to keep the stock column is to go to a after market floor shift kit, or swapping steering columns, which may mean different steering box, etc. Trouble is I like the stock column!

Please tell me how you synced the C-4 to the shift indicator. Mine is an FMX, and it is off a click. Drive is N on mine.

 

Well, I got 'em here- not exactly the what I wanted. Anyway, the procedure-for me- is changed from what I did just two days ago to post pics here. I guess I'm just the 10% not getting the word. Also wanted them like half this size, but they is what they is...






so- hooler1- thanks for the reply. re syncing. What worked for me was positioning gearshift selector & transmission levers, both in 'Neutral' positions. The column shifter lever arm was about at a desired perpendicular or about 90 degree position to a wire model of the linkage coming from the transmission. This was my basic 'stake in the ground'
At the transmission shifter arm, I had to construct/add a piece on it's arm, so it's linkage attach point/hole would be about perpendicular or 90 degrees to the wire model coming down from the column lever. This should now put the trans lever about at a mid-point of it's tangential travel range (in 'neutral position).

Next you just have to trial/error positioning the linkage mount hole location on the trans lever, closer in or further out- from the trans lever pivot point, which is the shaft going into the trans.
What you're trying to find- is a point where the trans arm linkage-mount-hole will travel the same distance as the column selector arm linkage-mount-hole travels as they go thru their full range of movements from 'park' to 'low'.
Again, having them each about at the same angle to the link rod, in the 'neutral' position, should give you close/correct positions of selector to actual gear.

If you can't quite get trans all the way into low when shift selector shows 'L', then you need to move in linkage bushing hole on trans lever, which has effect of 'shortening' trans shaft lever, which makes it rotate further.

Or do just the opposite if column shift selector 'pointer' will not go all the way over 'L' when the trans actually is already in low.

I used used a solid 10 ga. copper wire as model & bend ends to simulate linkage rod.
I fabbed linkage rod from 5/16 " rod, fitted with threaded-on (for fine adjust.) little ball-joint ends, like motorcycle shifter rod ends.
There's probably a simpler/easier way to describe & I understand a sketch/pic would help and will fiddle with trying to come up with one.
Good luck... jh

 

The picture of your steering column back plate looks just like mine. Same issue with the worn off/broken off park detent. Thank you so much for your reply! I really appreciate all the detail you went through to describe the process! It makes sense and I am going to put it back on top of my list.

 

Well, with the Good Lord's help & stainless 308L(?) sticks, I got it rebuilt. Those stainless rods almost weld themselves.







I know it's not the prettiest job, but better than I expected for only about a half hour's work and the next one will be better. Shifter now works as it should.

I did find another complete auto column asm & am procuring that for next project. I think it will need rebuilding also.

BTW- does anyone here know how to disassemble shifter lever from tube- after pin is removed? I haven't tried it actually myself, but person sending other column asm was asking so as to slim down unit for shipping. I did search & found info for later model only. Maybe the same- don't know...
Thanks for all the comments & input...john

 

Hey John!

I think it looks great! Anytime you can fix a problem such as this, it is a great thing. So now you have given me inspiration to get mine fixed up. Did you have to pull the steering gear box? Or could after you removed the steering wheel, and the shift arm assembly at the bottom of the column in the engine compartment, simply loosen the bottom collar at the steering gear box, simply slide the steering column tube out of the truck?

I wish I knew the answer regarding you shift lever question...

Stu

 

Thanks for the reply, hooler- didn't pull box, but, my doesn't have original box, but I think it will work as you describe, from what I know & looking at Ford Parts catalog illustrations. Mine has orig. turn signals & someone had already gap/notched (see my original pic of column head/plate) the wire feed hole in the column top mount plate, so no wires had to be pulled.
I had to work/pick out the inner 'race' at top end, just behind steering wheel. Someone had added spacer & over-torqued steering wheel nut.
Note- that clamp (similar to muffler clamp) around the steering column tube- engine side- that supports the bottom end of the shifter tube- has a couple of teeth that fit notches in column tube underneath it. So it has to be very loose & pulled up a little or just taken completely off, as I did.
Not to tell you how to do it, but for me as hobby welder, I practiced on similar thickness, thin sectioned samples to set welder, etc. I have 35 yr. old Monkey Wards stick box, but those 309L rods are sweet for me.
Good luck..jh

 

To remove the shift lever tube on my 57 you remove the ubolt at the bottom of the column and the tube slides out of the hub at the top.

 

gh52- no need to remove the shift lever tube for column tube/top plate removal- at least not on mine. Also, just loosened clamp/collar at dash bottom & that corralled shifter tube, after column tube pulled out... jh

 

Got the other column/shifter asm. To remove Ford-O-Matic shift from shifter tube- you have to have open access to top end of shifter tube.
The trick is to slip the rubber collar out of the short tube section & up the lever shaft. Here's my details:
Depress & hold down spring (actually there are two/stacked) located in shifter tube which are under/behind the 'balled' end of the shifter. I just wedged a small length of sheet metal - about 1/2 x 1/4 in. piece, in slot, next to balled end. Shifter lever is now free of spring tension pressure. Support/back-up shifter tube where roll pin is located thru shifter lever and drive out roll pin.
Dabble some armour-all/silicone spray on rubber collar on shift lever. Use small screw drivers and hooks, picks to allow lubricant to get into all parts of rubber collar. Pull out lever & rubber collar, as far as you can, & using small drivers, picks, hooks & at least three hands or however you can manage- work the collar out of the tube and up the lever shaft. You just have to eyeball & figure out what may work best with what ever you're using to do this.
Once collar is out of tube & up on lever shaft, lever will slip out of tube.
If your rubber collar is shot & you have replacement, then just dissect/needle-nose it out and lever comes out.
Good luck... john

 

Got the other column/shifter asm. To remove Ford-O-Matic shift from shifter tube- you have to have open access to top end of shifter tube.
Now the trick is to slip the rubber collar out of the short tube section & up the lever shaft. Here's my details:
Depress & hold down spring (actually there are two/stacked) located in shifter tube which are under/behind the 'balled' end of the shifter. I just wedged a small length of sheet metal - about 1/2 x 1/4 in. piece, in slot, next to balled end. Shifter lever is now free of spring tension pressure. Support/back-up shifter tube where roll pin is located thru shifter lever and drive out roll pin.
Dabble some armour-all/silicone spray on rubber collar on shift lever. Use small screw drivers and hooks, picks to allow lubricant to get into all parts of rubber collar. Pull out lever & rubber collar, as far as you can, & using small drivers, picks, hooks & at least three hands or however you can manage- work the collar out of the tube and up the lever shaft. You just have to eyeball & figure out what may work best with what ever you're using to do this.
Once collar is out of tube & up on lever shaft, lever will slip out of tube.
If your rubber collar is shot & you have replacement, then just dissect/needle-nose it out and lever comes out.
Good luck... john

 

Hey John,

Thanks for your work, and the great notes on the shift lever removal. Along with the indexing plate repairs I need, this is something I have been also wondering about. Now when the time comes I and others will know how to attack it. Once again, Good Work!

 

I was going to add, maybe a cut piece of brake line bent into an oval shape and tapped over the pawl....with some locktite inside for extra insurance.

 

I know this is an older tread, but hoping to find out the correct method for getting the collar separated from the shift tube - appears the shift tube is pressed over to hold the collar in place. Should I simply pry the pressed shift tube up to release the collar. Hoping not to make a big mistake! I need to remove the collar to replace the shift dial and the shift indicator piece.