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perhaps, but the inside of the truck was not that cool. had been sitting in the sun most of the morning and the AC was only running about 5 minutes.
prior to running the AC the thermometer in the vent said 100°F and i doubt very much that the cab had cooled down that much in that time frame.
i'll try to confirm whether it has a valve in the heater core lines or not.
The residual heat in the cab imbedded into the seats and the dash and all the other surfaces is called latent heat, it takes a while for that to be removed. I live in the Detroit area, when going on vacation in the summer with 95 degree ambients and very high relative humidity, we will start off in max a/c with in an hour we will have the a/c turned down to second fan speed setting and in normal mode, when we stop for lunch, I get out of the cab and have to take my glasses off because they instantly fog when the hot humid air hits them. I would imagine in the Texas heat that the humidity is quite high, removing water from the air takes quite a bit of energy and results in very slow cool downs in the cab. I remember when r-134 first came out that there was a lot of misinformation regarding the ability of the new refrigerant to cool in a car or truck, maybe at first this might have been true, but the OEM's have sharpened up there game with this stuff and in my opinion, r-134 works as well as r-12 or better, the reasons are that the components and the lines had to be built to a higher standard for reasons of durability and leak resistance, the lubricants have changed, they use a barrier type hose that is very resistant to leaks and on and on it goes.
Howdy again,
I have an update to my A/C issues. Last week I added the insulation to the A/C line(as shown earlier in this post). I have two pics, with a vent thermometer. Each of these pics were taken after driving home from work 33 highway miles via the exact same route. As I stated earlier the truck does not drip water after driving with the A/C running.
The first pic is from a 2013 Chevrolet Equinox with an outside temp of 91 degrees reflecting a vent temp at 43.2 degrees.
The second pic is from my 2013 Ford F150 with an outside temp of 88 degrees with a vent temp of 52.3.
Obviously there is a big difference of 9 degrees.
Next week I'm returning to the dealer with these findings. If you have any suggestions that I can supply to the dealer to help me resolve this issue is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
It sounds to me like it is not a proper charge or you have a sticking blend door, is there any frost or condensation on the suction line coming out of the firewall or climate control box on the firewall going towards the condensor, if not there should be.
i think the design is fine. the specs may be loose, but the design is fine.
as shown the system is fully capable of blowing low 40° air in recirculation mode.
now shown or addressed, but what mode was your AC in? regular vent, or recirculation? on my truck, that makes a huge difference.
i was also able to confirm that there is no valve in the heater core lines, so the difference in temp is just based on what air the system inhales. personally, i find this somewhat surprising because my expedition has the heater core bypass valve ... would have thought a truck 4 years newer would also, but that is not the case.
It can get cold but the compressor kicks off and it gets too warm. I'm pretty sure the reason our AC is subpar is to get better mileage. It's been a known issue since 2009 and you can't tell me Ford hasn't seen all the warranty service.
I have a 2012 F150 with Eco Boost. The AC works very good in all conditions. Drove the truck in Arizona & in Florida with temps near 100. The air blowing out of the vents was too cold to have point directly at us. It didn't matter if we were sitting in traffic or moving, the air was cold.
I had a 2008 F150 that had an issue that was very similar to what you are describing. It ended up being a blendoor. That's not a typo that's what the service writer, wrote on the repair ticket. After getting a new blendoor & control unit I never had that problem again. It was a big job getting that fixed they had to take out the entire dash. Good Luck.
It can get cold but the compressor kicks off and it gets too warm. I'm pretty sure the reason our AC is subpar is to get better mileage. It's been a known issue since 2009 and you can't tell me Ford hasn't seen all the warranty service.
The A/C on mine works fine. And the mileage doesn't change whether it is running or not. Old systems may have had some effect in the past but not these. In fact the compressor cycles on and off in any mode except straight lower heating to dry the air in most heating and defrost modes to keep the wind screen frost free.
You will put more drag on the vehicle driving with the windows open anyway.
Howdy,
Today I got my truck back from the dealer concerning my A/C issue.
Pundmann Ford:
- Test electronic automatic temperature control system for possible trouble codes. No codes found.
- Test A/C vent temp. In shop at idle vent temp at 46 - 50 degrees(I NEVER GOT ANYTHING UNDER 50 DEGREES AT IDLE OR DRIVING ).
- Reclaimed 22 ounces of refrigerant from system and recharged the system with 24 ounces of refrigerant. HHHMMM... Two additional ounces of refrigerant.
- Tested A/C lines pressures. High pressure 180 psi. Low 35 psi.
- Tested temperature at evaporator core at 39 degrees.
- Tested vent temp at 46 - 49 degrees.
- Compared with like vehicle in shop(2013 F-150 crew cab).
- A/C system operating correctly at this time.
As you may recall, I tested the vent temp(with a thermometer) of my 2013 Chevy Equinox with a vent temp of 42 degrees! The service tech said, "the Equinox probably has a larger condenser than the F-150'.
Really, then that tells me the F-150 design needs work!
I'll drive it a while and let you guys know the results. Ford Motor Co. is going to call me next week to discuss the results. We'll see what happens.
i have a 2013 with the 5.0 engine. My A/C will freeze you out. I live in central Texas where temperatures are constantly in the 90-100 range for most of the summer months.
I just bought '04 E350 with a little over 67k on it. The AC wasn't working at all, so I got a 12oz can of r134 and put it in. Prior to this, the ac clutch wouldn't spin, I got the pressure up to 35lbs and the clutch spun, but then it went back down to zero.
The guys at the parts store say I need 60oz of stuff in the thing to completely recharge it, how do I tell if I have a leak or if the little amount of stuff I put in the system just 'evened out' and I lost all that pressure again?
08-18-2014, 01:01 AM
