Ive searched so dont flame me please.

Autozone lists 2 part numbers for my 2002 single rear wheel 7.3l 4x4 for the front wheel assembly


Part Number: 515020
Warranty: 3 YR
Application: With single rear wheels
With 4 wheel anti-lock brakes
Notes: Coarse thread studs. Quantity per car: 2
$205

and

Part Number: SP580205
Warranty: 3 YR
Application: With single rear wheels
With 4 wheel anti-lock brakes
Notes: Fine thread studs. Quantity per car: 2
$366

Rock Auto lists the 2 assemblies for a more or less a similar price (to each other not to Autozone)


TIMKEN Part # SP580205
{#3C3Z1104BA} Includes Sensor; Tapered Bearing; 6.693 in. Bolt Circle Diam; 7.992 in. Flange Diameter; 2.146 in. Flange Offset; Square Flange Shape; 124.97 mm Wheel Pilot Diam
Front; 4WD; 4-Wheel ABS; Single Rear Wheels; Fine Thread Studs
$165.99

TIMKEN Part # 515020
{Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Tapered Bearing
Front; 4WD; 4-Wheel ABS; Single Rear Wheels; Coarse Thread Studs
$180.79

Major cost discrepancy at Autozone between these two parts. Both show the connector for the ABS. I am told all 2002 and newer 7.3l have 4 wheel ABS. True?

I think all 2000 and newer have course threads making the 515020 part the correct part for my 2002.

Can anyone confirm?

Thanks,

Lex

 

I cannot confirm what is used on the 2002, but I bought a 515020 for my '99. The wheel studs on the 515020 are the 7/16 coarse thread. When you do buy the bearings, check the torque on the main bearing by turning it by hand. It should turn with some stiffness, but no "chatter". Then check the stub axle bearing. It should turn easily with your index finger. I have found several that were not made well and had problems. Larry

 

New Timken bearing assemblies that were not up to standard?

 

Are the rear wheel studs course? I assume the new wheel bearing should match yes? Course in front and back.

 

First of all I said 7/16" coarse, should be 9/16 coarse for the late 99's. No matter what year, the studs in front match the back. If coarse in front, they are coarse in back.
Yes, I was suprised to find two out of three Timken bearings that I checked had a problem. That really says nothing about the factory failure rate for that bearing. I could have got the only two that year that were bad.The only point I was trying to make was to check the bearing before buying it. If you install a bearing that chatters because it is overtorqued by the factory or that has a crushed stub axle bearing, then the lifetime will obviously be severely reduced.
Same with waterpumps-check how it feels when turned by hand. should be firm, but not too tight. Larry

 

For a 2002 you will need the TIMKEN Part # 515020...

 

Thanks my brother.

Much appreciated.

I plan to the ball joints while I'm at it. 200k+ miles. Probably long overdue.

 

I was searching for something else entirely, and the results turned up this thread, and it seemed like the next person actually searching for this information might get confused or misinformed unless this thread is cleaned up.

First, the late 1999 wheel studs are NOT 9/16" per se, as they are metric.

Second, it is entirely possible for the fronts not to match the rears on a truck that is 16 years old. A previous owner could have replaced wheels studs and lug nuts with the newer finer thread versions. Or replaced axles. Or unit bearings. So the moral of the story is to check verify thread pitch if the history of the truck is not known. A lot of people can tell by looking, but for those who don't deal with bolts everyday, a cheap tap and die set ($10, made out of chinesium) will often have a thread pitch gauge included. Use the metric one.

1999 - 2002 = M14 x 2.0 = Coarse

2003 - beyond = M14 x 1.5 = Fine

M14 denotes stud diameter in millimeters (14mm is pretty close to 9/16 )

2.0 and 1.5 denote the distance between thread crowns in millimeters, where 2.0 (coarse) is a greater distance peak to peak than 1.5 (fine).

If one has a 1999-2002, then the Timken 515020 is the bearing kit to get.

If one has a 2003, then the Timken SP580205 is the bearing kit to get.

And if one doesn't know the history of the truck, it might be a good idea to verify the thread pitch on the the existing studs.

 

Good info brosky.

 

(Moved to pm.)

 

for a few more bucks do the axle's when they are out ..then hit with some good grease....I use amsoil myself

 

I have a quick question. I bought 2 used timken sp580205 unit hub bearings and the back side of one hub is black metal where the stub shaft goes through the other is shiny silver, and one bearing says kml 82110 on the cage, the other jus says 82110 in a little bit bigger numbers. Are they the same? Did i get ripped off?
Onez shiny black ones shiny silver, are they both timken unit bearings or did i get ripped off on thease? There soppost to be 2 timken sp580205 hub and bearings/ unit bearings, there suppost to have 5 to 6000 miles on them before takin off a wrecked 99 diesel truck, mine is a 2003 f250 both super duty 4x4s, thannx much for any comments

 

Someone will be able to give you the technical advice you are asking about. I would never install a used bearing.

 

The upper one has a shiny siver finish the bottom has a black shiny metal finish, the Guy i bought them from says there both timken sp580205, both are like new, and bearings still feel tight like described above when checking the bearing feel anD load, but are they both timken or is one a timken and the other different, they both came in timken boxes but are useD with 5_6000 miles on the off a wrecked truck, any comments please

 

Check the Timken website to cross reference the Part #s.