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1990 f150 Wont Start

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  #1  
Old 08-02-2014, 04:51 PM
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1990 f150 Wont Start

Hey guys, I have a problem I need some help with. My truck is a '90 f150 5.0 and is my dd. About a week or so ago I changed the upper & lower intake manifold gaskets and fuel injector end caps & o-rings. It ran great before I did this...now it won't start, it just turns over.

Everything that I had to unplug/disconnect for removal has been reconnected. When I turn the key on I can hear the pump prime for a couple seconds and stop as usual. You can push in the valve on the fuel rail and gas spurts out.

I tried spraying some starting fluid in the intake and then try it, but no luck. I checked for spark at the #1 plug and its sparking. If you turn the engine to 10° on the balancer the rotor is pointing to #1 post on the distributor cap. Thanks for reading.
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Old 08-02-2014, 04:57 PM
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Ok, so we know the problem starting occurring after you made changes, so that narrows it down to well.. just about everything you touched. Are you positive that all of the connectors are in the right place?

I hate problems like this because it could be a lot of things. Is it sputtering at all like it wants to start? Or just endless cranking with not even a single sign of life?
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:05 PM
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Thanks for the fast reply! Yes I'm positive all connectors are plugged in correctly. It doesn't sputter at all, just cranks.

Tanner
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:17 PM
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My senses are pointing to fuel.. are you sure nothing was done incorrectly while doing the O-rings? Replacing gaskets is a fairly simple job and can't think of anything you could've done incorrectly while doing the intakes besides improper re-installation.


Are you getting a check engine light or any other weird symptoms/noises?
I would read your codes even if there is no check engine light because they don't always throw a check engine light. That could send us in the right direction.
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'94 F-250 XLT 4x4 / 460 E4OD 4.11s / 16 inch lift 1.5 ton springs, Dana 60 Solid Axle Swap, 38.5 Super Swampers, Superwinch locking hubs, Dual shocks front/rear, mild cam, Longtube headers 3" true duals Flowmaster Super 44s, full LED conversion
'95 F-150 XLT 4x4 / 351W E4OD 3.55LS / 3" lift 33"s / Flowmaster Super 10
'79 F-250 Custom 4x4 / 460 C6 - work in progress
'77 F-150 Ranger / 400 headers & 4bbl
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:27 PM
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It could very well be something electrical as well.

Check all of the grounds that could have been tampered with while you were working on it. Lots of electrical things are linked to both the ignition and fuel systems.

There is also the possibility that something else went bad randomly while you were working on your truck. It's happened to me, and I thought it was something I did but it turned out not to be.

Crank and no start issues are tricky. If you think of any additional details please let me know so we can try to narrow this down.
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'94 F-250 XLT 4x4 / 460 E4OD 4.11s / 16 inch lift 1.5 ton springs, Dana 60 Solid Axle Swap, 38.5 Super Swampers, Superwinch locking hubs, Dual shocks front/rear, mild cam, Longtube headers 3" true duals Flowmaster Super 44s, full LED conversion
'95 F-150 XLT 4x4 / 351W E4OD 3.55LS / 3" lift 33"s / Flowmaster Super 10
'79 F-250 Custom 4x4 / 460 C6 - work in progress
'77 F-150 Ranger / 400 headers & 4bbl
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:42 PM
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Your right, changing intake gaskets is a fairly simple procedure. It went back together pretty easy. No CEL and nothing noticeable out of the ordinary, just cranking and no start.

One thing I'm worried about is before I did this I forgot to unhook my battery. I've heard I could've messed up something by not doing so. I usually do unhook it when working on something electrical but forgot this time.

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Old 08-02-2014, 05:58 PM
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You could have done something, but generally when you're told to disconnect the battery before doing anything is a safety precaution rather than a vital step to make it work, you know?

Unless you touched something somewhere that shouldn't have been in contact with it, I think you're okay on the battery thing.

Some more "ideas":

fuel pressure test?
ignition coil test?
check all fuses?
-----------------
I'd also run a self test. Here's a link on how to do so.

Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test

Essentially you'll be playing morse code with your check engine light. The link I gave you explains it all, and whatever codes you get if any can be looked up with the links at the bottom of the guide I gave you the link to.

It's worth a shot reading the codes. Just my two cents.
This is a tricky one!
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'94 F-250 XLT 4x4 / 460 E4OD 4.11s / 16 inch lift 1.5 ton springs, Dana 60 Solid Axle Swap, 38.5 Super Swampers, Superwinch locking hubs, Dual shocks front/rear, mild cam, Longtube headers 3" true duals Flowmaster Super 44s, full LED conversion
'95 F-150 XLT 4x4 / 351W E4OD 3.55LS / 3" lift 33"s / Flowmaster Super 10
'79 F-250 Custom 4x4 / 460 C6 - work in progress
'77 F-150 Ranger / 400 headers & 4bbl
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordboy97 View Post

I tried spraying some starting fluid in the intake and then try it, but no luck. I checked for spark at the #1 plug and its sparking. If you turn the engine to 10° on the balancer the rotor is pointing to #1 post on the distributor cap. Thanks for reading.
Remove wires from cap? if so installed for counter clockwise rotor rotation when put them back on?

Did you lift the dizzy out or leave it in?

If you removed it then put it back in did the above test, it is pointing at number one but didn't say if both valves number one cylinder where closed?

Any chance you set it back in 180deg out?

If you had it out and are sure the wires are on right I'd start there.

Pull number one plug, with your finger over the plug hole jog the engine over small bump at a time or turn it with wrench on bolt front of main shaft.
Turn it until pressure blows your finger off the plug hole, can be done with the key and helper or jump relay on fender but only bump it very small moves at a time. When piston comes up on compression stroke both valves closed, pressure will blow by your finger, exhoust stroke no pressure you don't want that one.
Once you're sure its compression stroke use a straw or pencil a thin screwdriver put it down the spark plug hole touch top of piston.
Rock main shaft by hand rotate back and forth little bit finding exact top dead center = piston full top of its compression stroke, once have it there look where rotor in dizzy points. If points to number one plug on the cap its good, if points 180deg out you have to lift dizzy out set it back in rotor pointing at number one on the cap.


Other option is remove the valve cover, jogging engine finger over plug hole much less work.

If you pulled the dizzy and you're sure you have everything plugged back in? I'd start there.

If you didn't pull the dizzy let us know too.
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Old 08-02-2014, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1995F150XLT4x4 View Post
You could have done something, but generally when you're told to disconnect the battery before doing anything is a safety precaution rather than a vital step to make it work, you know?

Unless you touched something somewhere that shouldn't have been in contact with it, I think you're okay on the battery thing.

Some more "ideas":

fuel pressure test?
ignition coil test?
check all fuses?
-----------------
I'd also run a self test. Here's a link on how to do so.

Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test

Essentially you'll be playing morse code with your check engine light. The link I gave you explains it all, and whatever codes you get if any can be looked up with the links at the bottom of the guide I gave you the link to.

It's worth a shot reading the codes. Just my two cents.
This is a tricky one!
I haven't done a fuel pressure test or ignition coil test but I did check all fuses in the fuse box, they look good. How do you do an ignition coil test? I guess the pcm relay could be bad, but I don't know the symptoms of a bad pcm relay.

I have a ford obd1 code reader I purchased a little while back that I can pull codes with, but thanks for the link anyways man. I can look up the code definitions with it though!

Tanner
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Old 08-02-2014, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danr1 View Post

Remove wires from cap? if so installed for counter clockwise rotor rotation when put them back on?

Did you lift the dizzy out or leave it in?

If you removed it then put it back in did the above test, it is pointing at number one but didn't say if both valves number one cylinder where closed?

Any chance you set it back in 180deg out?

If you had it out and are sure the wires are on right I'd start there.

Pull number one plug, with your finger over the plug hole jog the engine over small bump at a time or turn it with wrench on bolt front of main shaft.
Turn it until pressure blows your finger off the plug hole, can be done with the key and helper or jump relay on fender but only bump it very small moves at a time. When piston comes up on compression stroke both valves closed, pressure will blow by your finger, exhoust stroke no pressure you don't want that one.
Once you're sure its compression stroke use a straw or pencil a thin screwdriver put it down the spark plug hole touch top of piston.
Rock main shaft by hand rotate back and forth little bit finding exact top dead center = piston full top of its compression stroke, once have it there look where rotor in dizzy points. If points to number one plug on the cap its good, if points 180deg out you have to lift dizzy out set it back in rotor pointing at number one on the cap.

Other option is remove the valve cover, jogging engine finger over plug hole much less work.

If you pulled the dizzy and you're sure you have everything plugged back in? I'd start there.

If you didn't pull the dizzy let us know too.
I did pull the dizzy out when I pulled the lower intake manifold. I checked the spark plug wire routing according to the firing order on my under hood sticker, counterclockwise.

I pulled the #1 plug and bumped the solenoid until i felt the air gush out, then inserted a screw driver to verify i was at tdc. I tried turning the rotor 180° (to make sure I didn't time it to exhaust stroke) and it backfired after a little bit of cranking. So I put it back where it was. Thanks for your help man!

Tanner
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Old 08-02-2014, 07:49 PM
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The main symptom of a bad PCM would be crank with no start.. so I understand you questioning it. But, I think if your PCM is bad the fuel pump would not activate.. I could be wrong. I would do a fuel pressure test soon. To test your ignition coil you just need an ohmmeter. I'm unsure of exactly what resistance it should be reading right off hand, but you could find that in your service manual.

You might have no power at the injectors.

Tell me if you get any codes back when you read them, too
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'95 F-150 XLT 4x4 / 351W E4OD 3.55LS / 3" lift 33"s / Flowmaster Super 10
'79 F-250 Custom 4x4 / 460 C6 - work in progress
'77 F-150 Ranger / 400 headers & 4bbl
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Old 08-02-2014, 08:19 PM
danr1 danr1 is online now
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If you have good spark and at the right time it would run with starting fluid even if had a fuel and or computer issue, say the computer wasn't firing the injectors/no power to them and or low fuel pressure etc.

The fact it didn't fire and run for brief moment with starting fluid suggests it is all ignition related. You have power to the coil or at least should have as you stated number one plug does show spark.

Try it with the spout jumper removed and make sure its not flooded.
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Old 08-02-2014, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1995F150XLT4x4 View Post
The main symptom of a bad PCM would be crank with no start.. so I understand you questioning it. But, I think if your PCM is bad the fuel pump would not activate.. I could be wrong. I would do a fuel pressure test soon. To test your ignition coil you just need an ohmmeter. I'm unsure of exactly what resistance it should be reading right off hand, but you could find that in your service manual.

You might have no power at the injectors.

Tell me if you get any codes back when you read them, too
Will do. It'll have to wait until after work tomorrow though. I'm gonna get a fuel pressure gauge tomorrow also to test my pressure.

Tanner
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Old 08-02-2014, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danr1 View Post
If you have good spark and at the right time it would run with starting fluid even if had a fuel and or computer issue, say the computer wasn't firing the injectors/no power to them and or low fuel pressure etc.

The fact it didn't fire and run for brief moment with starting fluid suggests it is all ignition related. You have power to the coil or at least should have as you stated number one plug does show spark.

Try it with the spout jumper removed and make sure its not flooded.
I was thinking the same thing too. I expected it to run on starting fluid since I was getting spark at the #1 plug, I was confused when it didn't. The spark looked weak to me though when I saw it, like a white spark not blue. It has a new coil, cap&rotor, plugs and wires.

Tanner
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:05 AM
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Ok guys, I've got today and tomorrow to try and get my truck fixed. Any thing else I should check? I'm gonna hook up a timing light and have someone crank it to ensure the timing is good.

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