Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 08-02-2014, 04:51 PM
fordboy97's Avatar
fordboy97 fordboy97 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 79
fordboy97 is starting off with a positive reputation.
1990 f150 Wont Start

Hey guys, I have a problem I need some help with. My truck is a '90 f150 5.0 and is my dd. About a week or so ago I changed the upper & lower intake manifold gaskets and fuel injector end caps & o-rings. It ran great before I did this...now it won't start, it just turns over.

Everything that I had to unplug/disconnect for removal has been reconnected. When I turn the key on I can hear the pump prime for a couple seconds and stop as usual. You can push in the valve on the fuel rail and gas spurts out.

I tried spraying some starting fluid in the intake and then try it, but no luck. I checked for spark at the #1 plug and its sparking. If you turn the engine to 10° on the balancer the rotor is pointing to #1 post on the distributor cap. Thanks for reading.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-02-2014, 04:57 PM
1995F150XLT4x4's Avatar
1995F150XLT4x4 1995F150XLT4x4 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 112
1995F150XLT4x4 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Ok, so we know the problem starting occurring after you made changes, so that narrows it down to well.. just about everything you touched. Are you positive that all of the connectors are in the right place?

I hate problems like this because it could be a lot of things. Is it sputtering at all like it wants to start? Or just endless cranking with not even a single sign of life?
__________________
"Truck" - '95 F-150 XLT 4x4 , 351W/E4OD, 3.55 limited slip - daily driver:
3" lift, K&N cold air, MSD Distributor/Blaster coil, Hedman ceramic longtubes
"Papa" - '77 F-150 Standard Cab Shortbed, cammed 400M, Edelbrock Headers, Holley 4bbl
My grandfather's first job from 1953 until his retirement in 1993 took place at Ford Motor Company in Pennsylvania. He'd love to see me carrying the family tradition!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-02-2014, 05:05 PM
fordboy97's Avatar
fordboy97 fordboy97 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 79
fordboy97 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thanks for the fast reply! Yes I'm positive all connectors are plugged in correctly. It doesn't sputter at all, just cranks.

Tanner
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-02-2014, 05:17 PM
1995F150XLT4x4's Avatar
1995F150XLT4x4 1995F150XLT4x4 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 112
1995F150XLT4x4 is starting off with a positive reputation.
My senses are pointing to fuel.. are you sure nothing was done incorrectly while doing the O-rings? Replacing gaskets is a fairly simple job and can't think of anything you could've done incorrectly while doing the intakes besides improper re-installation.


Are you getting a check engine light or any other weird symptoms/noises?
I would read your codes even if there is no check engine light because they don't always throw a check engine light. That could send us in the right direction.
__________________
"Truck" - '95 F-150 XLT 4x4 , 351W/E4OD, 3.55 limited slip - daily driver:
3" lift, K&N cold air, MSD Distributor/Blaster coil, Hedman ceramic longtubes
"Papa" - '77 F-150 Standard Cab Shortbed, cammed 400M, Edelbrock Headers, Holley 4bbl
My grandfather's first job from 1953 until his retirement in 1993 took place at Ford Motor Company in Pennsylvania. He'd love to see me carrying the family tradition!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-02-2014, 05:27 PM
1995F150XLT4x4's Avatar
1995F150XLT4x4 1995F150XLT4x4 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 112
1995F150XLT4x4 is starting off with a positive reputation.
It could very well be something electrical as well.

Check all of the grounds that could have been tampered with while you were working on it. Lots of electrical things are linked to both the ignition and fuel systems.

There is also the possibility that something else went bad randomly while you were working on your truck. It's happened to me, and I thought it was something I did but it turned out not to be.

Crank and no start issues are tricky. If you think of any additional details please let me know so we can try to narrow this down.
__________________
"Truck" - '95 F-150 XLT 4x4 , 351W/E4OD, 3.55 limited slip - daily driver:
3" lift, K&N cold air, MSD Distributor/Blaster coil, Hedman ceramic longtubes
"Papa" - '77 F-150 Standard Cab Shortbed, cammed 400M, Edelbrock Headers, Holley 4bbl
My grandfather's first job from 1953 until his retirement in 1993 took place at Ford Motor Company in Pennsylvania. He'd love to see me carrying the family tradition!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-02-2014, 05:42 PM
fordboy97's Avatar
fordboy97 fordboy97 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 79
fordboy97 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Your right, changing intake gaskets is a fairly simple procedure. It went back together pretty easy. No CEL and nothing noticeable out of the ordinary, just cranking and no start.

One thing I'm worried about is before I did this I forgot to unhook my battery. I've heard I could've messed up something by not doing so. I usually do unhook it when working on something electrical but forgot this time.

Tanner
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-02-2014, 05:58 PM
1995F150XLT4x4's Avatar
1995F150XLT4x4 1995F150XLT4x4 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 112
1995F150XLT4x4 is starting off with a positive reputation.
You could have done something, but generally when you're told to disconnect the battery before doing anything is a safety precaution rather than a vital step to make it work, you know?

Unless you touched something somewhere that shouldn't have been in contact with it, I think you're okay on the battery thing.

Some more "ideas":

fuel pressure test?
ignition coil test?
check all fuses?
-----------------
I'd also run a self test. Here's a link on how to do so.

Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test

Essentially you'll be playing morse code with your check engine light. The link I gave you explains it all, and whatever codes you get if any can be looked up with the links at the bottom of the guide I gave you the link to.

It's worth a shot reading the codes. Just my two cents.
This is a tricky one!
__________________
"Truck" - '95 F-150 XLT 4x4 , 351W/E4OD, 3.55 limited slip - daily driver:
3" lift, K&N cold air, MSD Distributor/Blaster coil, Hedman ceramic longtubes
"Papa" - '77 F-150 Standard Cab Shortbed, cammed 400M, Edelbrock Headers, Holley 4bbl
My grandfather's first job from 1953 until his retirement in 1993 took place at Ford Motor Company in Pennsylvania. He'd love to see me carrying the family tradition!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-02-2014, 06:24 PM
danr1 danr1 is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Sand Lake, MI
Posts: 5,200
danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fordboy97 View Post

I tried spraying some starting fluid in the intake and then try it, but no luck. I checked for spark at the #1 plug and its sparking. If you turn the engine to 10° on the balancer the rotor is pointing to #1 post on the distributor cap. Thanks for reading.
Remove wires from cap? if so installed for counter clockwise rotor rotation when put them back on?

Did you lift the dizzy out or leave it in?

If you removed it then put it back in did the above test, it is pointing at number one but didn't say if both valves number one cylinder where closed?

Any chance you set it back in 180deg out?

If you had it out and are sure the wires are on right I'd start there.

Pull number one plug, with your finger over the plug hole jog the engine over small bump at a time or turn it with wrench on bolt front of main shaft.
Turn it until pressure blows your finger off the plug hole, can be done with the key and helper or jump relay on fender but only bump it very small moves at a time. When piston comes up on compression stroke both valves closed, pressure will blow by your finger, exhoust stroke no pressure you don't want that one.
Once you're sure its compression stroke use a straw or pencil a thin screwdriver put it down the spark plug hole touch top of piston.
Rock main shaft by hand rotate back and forth little bit finding exact top dead center = piston full top of its compression stroke, once have it there look where rotor in dizzy points. If points to number one plug on the cap its good, if points 180deg out you have to lift dizzy out set it back in rotor pointing at number one on the cap.


Other option is remove the valve cover, jogging engine finger over plug hole much less work.

If you pulled the dizzy and you're sure you have everything plugged back in? I'd start there.

If you didn't pull the dizzy let us know too.
__________________
1987 F250 RC 5.8L C6 4x4 4.10LS (Parts)
1994 F250 RC 5.8L E4OD 4x4 3.55
1995 F250 SC 7.5L E4OD 4x4 3.55
1997 F350 RC 5.8L ZF 4x4 3.55
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-02-2014, 07:03 PM
fordboy97's Avatar
fordboy97 fordboy97 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 79
fordboy97 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1995F150XLT4x4 View Post
You could have done something, but generally when you're told to disconnect the battery before doing anything is a safety precaution rather than a vital step to make it work, you know?

Unless you touched something somewhere that shouldn't have been in contact with it, I think you're okay on the battery thing.

Some more "ideas":

fuel pressure test?
ignition coil test?
check all fuses?
-----------------
I'd also run a self test. Here's a link on how to do so.

Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test

Essentially you'll be playing morse code with your check engine light. The link I gave you explains it all, and whatever codes you get if any can be looked up with the links at the bottom of the guide I gave you the link to.

It's worth a shot reading the codes. Just my two cents.
This is a tricky one!
I haven't done a fuel pressure test or ignition coil test but I did check all fuses in the fuse box, they look good. How do you do an ignition coil test? I guess the pcm relay could be bad, but I don't know the symptoms of a bad pcm relay.

I have a ford obd1 code reader I purchased a little while back that I can pull codes with, but thanks for the link anyways man. I can look up the code definitions with it though!

Tanner
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-02-2014, 07:10 PM
fordboy97's Avatar
fordboy97 fordboy97 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 79
fordboy97 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by danr1 View Post

Remove wires from cap? if so installed for counter clockwise rotor rotation when put them back on?

Did you lift the dizzy out or leave it in?

If you removed it then put it back in did the above test, it is pointing at number one but didn't say if both valves number one cylinder where closed?

Any chance you set it back in 180deg out?

If you had it out and are sure the wires are on right I'd start there.

Pull number one plug, with your finger over the plug hole jog the engine over small bump at a time or turn it with wrench on bolt front of main shaft.
Turn it until pressure blows your finger off the plug hole, can be done with the key and helper or jump relay on fender but only bump it very small moves at a time. When piston comes up on compression stroke both valves closed, pressure will blow by your finger, exhoust stroke no pressure you don't want that one.
Once you're sure its compression stroke use a straw or pencil a thin screwdriver put it down the spark plug hole touch top of piston.
Rock main shaft by hand rotate back and forth little bit finding exact top dead center = piston full top of its compression stroke, once have it there look where rotor in dizzy points. If points to number one plug on the cap its good, if points 180deg out you have to lift dizzy out set it back in rotor pointing at number one on the cap.

Other option is remove the valve cover, jogging engine finger over plug hole much less work.

If you pulled the dizzy and you're sure you have everything plugged back in? I'd start there.

If you didn't pull the dizzy let us know too.
I did pull the dizzy out when I pulled the lower intake manifold. I checked the spark plug wire routing according to the firing order on my under hood sticker, counterclockwise.

I pulled the #1 plug and bumped the solenoid until i felt the air gush out, then inserted a screw driver to verify i was at tdc. I tried turning the rotor 180° (to make sure I didn't time it to exhaust stroke) and it backfired after a little bit of cranking. So I put it back where it was. Thanks for your help man!

Tanner
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-02-2014, 07:49 PM
1995F150XLT4x4's Avatar
1995F150XLT4x4 1995F150XLT4x4 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 112
1995F150XLT4x4 is starting off with a positive reputation.
The main symptom of a bad PCM would be crank with no start.. so I understand you questioning it. But, I think if your PCM is bad the fuel pump would not activate.. I could be wrong. I would do a fuel pressure test soon. To test your ignition coil you just need an ohmmeter. I'm unsure of exactly what resistance it should be reading right off hand, but you could find that in your service manual.

You might have no power at the injectors.

Tell me if you get any codes back when you read them, too
__________________
"Truck" - '95 F-150 XLT 4x4 , 351W/E4OD, 3.55 limited slip - daily driver:
3" lift, K&N cold air, MSD Distributor/Blaster coil, Hedman ceramic longtubes
"Papa" - '77 F-150 Standard Cab Shortbed, cammed 400M, Edelbrock Headers, Holley 4bbl
My grandfather's first job from 1953 until his retirement in 1993 took place at Ford Motor Company in Pennsylvania. He'd love to see me carrying the family tradition!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-02-2014, 08:19 PM
danr1 danr1 is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Sand Lake, MI
Posts: 5,200
danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.danr1 has a great reputation on FTE.
If you have good spark and at the right time it would run with starting fluid even if had a fuel and or computer issue, say the computer wasn't firing the injectors/no power to them and or low fuel pressure etc.

The fact it didn't fire and run for brief moment with starting fluid suggests it is all ignition related. You have power to the coil or at least should have as you stated number one plug does show spark.

Try it with the spout jumper removed and make sure its not flooded.
__________________
1987 F250 RC 5.8L C6 4x4 4.10LS (Parts)
1994 F250 RC 5.8L E4OD 4x4 3.55
1995 F250 SC 7.5L E4OD 4x4 3.55
1997 F350 RC 5.8L ZF 4x4 3.55
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-02-2014, 08:54 PM
fordboy97's Avatar
fordboy97 fordboy97 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 79
fordboy97 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1995F150XLT4x4 View Post
The main symptom of a bad PCM would be crank with no start.. so I understand you questioning it. But, I think if your PCM is bad the fuel pump would not activate.. I could be wrong. I would do a fuel pressure test soon. To test your ignition coil you just need an ohmmeter. I'm unsure of exactly what resistance it should be reading right off hand, but you could find that in your service manual.

You might have no power at the injectors.

Tell me if you get any codes back when you read them, too
Will do. It'll have to wait until after work tomorrow though. I'm gonna get a fuel pressure gauge tomorrow also to test my pressure.

Tanner
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-02-2014, 08:59 PM
fordboy97's Avatar
fordboy97 fordboy97 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 79
fordboy97 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by danr1 View Post
If you have good spark and at the right time it would run with starting fluid even if had a fuel and or computer issue, say the computer wasn't firing the injectors/no power to them and or low fuel pressure etc.

The fact it didn't fire and run for brief moment with starting fluid suggests it is all ignition related. You have power to the coil or at least should have as you stated number one plug does show spark.

Try it with the spout jumper removed and make sure its not flooded.
I was thinking the same thing too. I expected it to run on starting fluid since I was getting spark at the #1 plug, I was confused when it didn't. The spark looked weak to me though when I saw it, like a white spark not blue. It has a new coil, cap&rotor, plugs and wires.

Tanner
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-04-2014, 09:05 AM
fordboy97's Avatar
fordboy97 fordboy97 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 79
fordboy97 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Ok guys, I've got today and tomorrow to try and get my truck fixed. Any thing else I should check? I'm gonna hook up a timing light and have someone crank it to ensure the timing is good.

Tanner
Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2014, 09:05 AM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1977 F-150 help, won't start - I think spark??? Catterman 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 6 02-05-2014 02:26 PM
Help! '96 F150 5.0L Won't Start Gryphon1962m 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 3 12-29-2013 03:20 PM
Weird starting issues. 650 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 3 03-07-2013 09:21 PM
1987 Starting Problems Jcannon352 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 2 01-08-2013 06:39 PM
wont start almonyspm1 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 5 12-11-2012 12:56 PM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:53 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup