The fuse popping could be a broken wire leading to the brake light switch, or a defective brake light switch itself.
When this happened to me, I had no brake lights so I investigated. I found a blown stomp lamp fuse and a broken wire leading to the brake light switch located directly underneath the steering column in the cab. It's right by the interior fuse panel underneath the steering wheel.
I would check all the wires in that area first because your problem sounds like a bad connection. Usually if the brake light switch goes, you'll have trouble getting out of park.
Let us know if you find anything out of the ordinary.
If you can't get out of park, the fuse is blown and your brake lights don't work, I could almost guarantee the brake light switch is your answer. Mine just randomly went bad and it made me think I did something wrong the last time I repaired something, but that wasn't the case.
I replaced the brake light switch and the truck would then shift out of park.
I repaired the broken wire and replaced the fuse, and my brake lights worked again.
The brake light switch is a very cheap part (less than 10 bucks) and it installs in 5 minutes. It might be worth your time
But if you insist it's something you did while doing the fuel work, double check everything you connected/disconnected one more time to make sure they're properly placed. Also ensure you didn't damage anything electrical while you did it.
That's odd. Did you do anything about that odd wire?
Without your foot on the brake, the truck won't let the column shifter move. Usually if the switch is bad, the truck thinks your foot isn't on the brake even if it is. I'm shocked that the switch didn't work because these were literally all of my symptoms when this happened to me. My ABS light was on, too..
I'd do some more investigating in that area. In the meantime, run a self test. These are very helpful and can help you narrow down any issue you might have. Here is a guide on how to do so: Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test
The links explains it all, and at the bottom of the page you'll find a link to a list of the codes and their meanings. Your computer probably has a code stored about something to do with this. My guess is you'll get code 536. Perform this test when you get the time and tell me the results. If the link I provided confuses you, just ask me any question you might have.
Codes on KOEO were 111
Codes on KOER with a pretty cold engine were 653, 853 and 663.
Codes on second run with a warmer engine were 548 or maybe 538. I might have missed a blink. It gave that code 2x and that was it.
No brake system codes even though the another fuse blew when I pushed the pedal during the test.
The wires for the middle tank come across and go to the inside of the frame rail, but they aren't pinched.
I keep thinking it must be the sender/pump wiring. The Spectra Premium pump/sender comes with a female ind and you have to cut the female off the harness and splice on this new connection. The directions don't list all the color wire connections but I thought I was able to figure it out.
I did find an picture from an older F150 and the wires were the same as mine so I thought I got it right.
Hazards, turn signals, headlight/taillight all function normally.
fuse doesn't blow using hazards tells us the circuits to the lights are fine, nothing grounded out that shouldn't be.
Unplug the rabs module, open glove box squeeze in sides at top to allow box to fully tilt down. Module connector at upper right corner as seen over glove box, module is black box approximately 4" high by 5-6" long.
Unplug it then hit your brake pedal see if the fuse blows.
If not fuse does not blow first thing I'd check the wiring down at the rabs valve itself, valve is inside frame rail say directly under your feet while seated behind the wheel, inspect harness see if find any damage.
If find nothing obvious there replace fuse pull code/s for rabs system let it tell you where the problem lies.
If fuse blows rabs likely ain't it move on to next circuit.