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Looking into trading my Chevy C20 Long Step Bed for a 66 F250 Long Bed.
The guy is asking $3900 for his truck. New tires, plugs, distributer, carb, and bed liner on a good running primer gray truck. 352 3/4 ton 4 speed manual
My truck has 38k on a crate 350, th400 combo 3/4 ton and a bad paint job. Solid and great running truck. Im just a ford guy. I have a 1967 Mustang project i have been working on and just like the 66 body style
So here are pics of the truck.
My question.. What would you think the value of his truck is? I know my truck is a very sought after year with great following despite the long bed step side not being the most popular.
His as well I understand is not of the popular variety but value wise I may have a little more. Im probably going for an even trade.
From what I can see, it has a '65 grille on it, the steering column and steering wheel are from a later model (70s?) truck which may mean a PO has added power steering to it, the seat cover is not original, the wiper switch looks to have been changed, not sure what switch is in place over the ignition switch where the windshield washer push button should be, the ignition switch looks odd, the instrument panel gauge cluster has been painted, the gas pedal has been changed or perhaps just had the bright trim piece added, and the floor mat doesn't appear to be there. Being a ¾ ton truck, the gearing is likely to be 4.10s. After being used to the automatic in your truck, you might find the 4 speed in the Ford to be a bit "agricultural". I think it might be priced a little high. Anyway - these are some questions you might want to ask him about. Get the information off of the warranty plate (on the driver's door) and post it. Someone from the forum will decode it for you so you can tell how the truck was originally configured. Hope this is of some use to you. Good luck.
From what I can see, it has a '65 grille on it, the steering column and steering wheel are from a later model (70s?) truck which may mean a PO has added power steering to it, the seat cover is not original, the wiper switch looks to have been changed, not sure what switch is in place over the ignition switch where the windshield washer push button should be, the ignition switch looks odd, the instrument panel gauge cluster has been painted, the gas pedal has been changed or perhaps just had the bright trim piece added, and the floor mat doesn't appear to be there. Being a ¾ ton truck, the gearing is likely to be 4.10s. After being used to the automatic in your truck, you might find the 4 speed in the Ford to be a bit "agricultural". I think it might be priced a little high. Anyway - these are some questions you might want to ask him about. Get the information off of the warranty plate (on the driver's door) and post it. Someone from the forum will decode it for you so you can tell how the truck was originally configured. Hope this is of some use to you. Good luck.
Thanks for the info! I have a 3 speed 67 Mustang so I think the transmission will be no big deal for me. All the other info is great! Ill find out about it tomorrow
The 3 speed manual in your '67 Mustang is a totally different animal to the 4 speed in the truck. The truck 4 speed is not the same as the BW T-10 or Ford toploaders found in the cars. I love manual transmissions. I have 7 vehicles - 6 of them are manuals. My only automatic is the Buick I inherited when my mother died. Nonetheless, I had to replace the NP435 4 speed in my '66 F100 with a newer, more modern manual transmission because I could never be sure I was going to complete the upshift from 2nd to 3rd before the truck rolled to a stop. It was nearly a cause for celebration when I could do it expeditiously in one try. There was nothing wrong with the transmission; that's just the way they were back in the day. Me and it just didn't get along. Your luck may be better and I hope it is. I love my new modern NV4500 transmission. Hope you get your new Ford and are happy with it.
Well no update. The gentleman father fell and he is out of town taking care of him. He told me he would be in touch so just hope his father gets better and in the near future ill see what happens
Buyer beware! I shy away from primer bombs, they hide whats under the paint. It could be a rebuilt wreck thats been in an accident. Check for clear title and vin# on door should match vin on frame. If good, then check for rust issues underneath. Then check mechanicals and electrical before pulling the trigger.
Well i ended up selling my truck and now looking at buying one of these. Currently suppose to go look at this 1965 Ford.
Stop but its hard and needs new pads on the front but drives good on a supposedly rebuilt engine. Should i be concerned that its lowered? Anything else to look at when i check her out?
It was a ROYAL POS!!!!! I mean OMG, i could of died if i drove it.....Bed completely rusted out, aftermarket column not bolted to firewall, no brake lights, no turn signals switch, rusted on the pillars, alt wire turning red, clamp on the headers covered by some cloth, vacuum to power brake booster not attached, speedometer cable wasnt hooked up. A Gian C Clamp was attached in the engine bay i assume for the steering..
WOW!!! Anyway...Going to look at another tomorrow and im pretty sure ill end up with it.
Well i drove 7 hours to Springfield Missouri from Nashville TN and feel like i got a steal!
Bought a 1966 F100 Longbed for $2000. Has Been converted to front disc brakes, power steering, has a new carb, rebuilt I6, 4:10 rear end, 3 speed, leather bucket seats, cd plater, cluster looks new and the gauge looks great. Has new front shocks, new bushing, optima battery, new regulator, newish tires, and a good body. Core support has some rust but all and all its solid
Drove her 8 hours back (60mph) and had only 1 problem. Vacuum advance came of the distributor. Was an easy fix but just ran weird for a bit and started to get hot. No biggie, She drives great and smooth!!! Might need to adjust the seats some as they are locked in place.
Gas gauge works but only like halfway. May just need a new sending unit., it seems to read as if it has a 10 gal tank.. So yeah half full seems to be empty.. So we put 10 gals in to fill up every time
Horn button on the dash is interesting. The lady almost broke into tears,,, She was very attached to the truck and had it for 6 years. She was selling apparently because of difficulties at work and sounded as if they really needed the money. After all was said and done she told me they had 7k in the truck,
So now i need to get to work on her. Needs a rear bumper and a few little things. I plan to paint it Satin Black to give it a hot rod look. So ill have to do some body work but nothing major. Few dents/dings and need to weld shut a million mirror holes
Oh yeah and the shift linkage is upside down. 1st is all the way up and to the right..kinda weird but they called it a theft deterrent
Gas gauge works but only like halfway. May just need a new sending unit, it seems to read as if it has a 10 gal tank. So yeah half full seems to be empty. So we put 10 gals in to fill up every time.
Remove the sending unit from the tank, take the float off its crooked arm and shake it to find out if gas is sloshing around inside.
The original float is made from two pieces of copper soldered together. Solder breaks down, gas seeps in, float begins to settle towards the bottom of the tank.
Carpenter sells a one piece brass float that'll never leak for about 5 bucks.
08-02-2014, 10:20 AM
