'65 and '66 Parting F100 and F250
#16
Category: Exterior - Body Parts
Price: $0
Private or Vendor Listing: Private Listing
Part fits (you may select multiples): '92+ Civic/EL & Del Sol
Item Condition: CA
Shipping Information: Item can be shipped
Engine: Part suitable for gas truck
I'm in CA.
rwtjmt@sbcglobal.net
#18
1965 f100 trim
ok.
Window trim front and rear,side ?
Custom Cab lettering?
Hood trim both sides?
Cowl trim both sides?
Door trim, both sides?
Rear return both sides?
I haven't seen any pictures so I don't know if the above is what you have listed.
Let me know which pieces you have and the total price.
I have the short, flare side box.
Thanks
rwtjmt@sbcglobal.net.
Twin Jim Beam.
Window trim front and rear,side ?
Custom Cab lettering?
Hood trim both sides?
Cowl trim both sides?
Door trim, both sides?
Rear return both sides?
I haven't seen any pictures so I don't know if the above is what you have listed.
Let me know which pieces you have and the total price.
I have the short, flare side box.
Thanks
rwtjmt@sbcglobal.net.
Twin Jim Beam.
#19
Twin:
Custom Cab lettering gone.
The hood, cowl, door, return trim you listed is part of the custom cab aluminum trim. $250.00 plus shipping for whole set, but this is for a long bed and you have a short bed. So, probably won't help you much.
Window trim, I have a complete set of stainless that surrounds the front windshield. I don't have any ss. trim for the rear window, and I'm not sure what you mean for the side windows. If the stainless on the front is what you need, let me know and I'll get you a price. Feel free to email me: ehershkowitz@hotmail.com. I can get you a little quicker reply.
If you still want photos of the longbed trim, let me know.
If you want the windshield Stainless, let me know for price and shipping.
Custom Cab lettering gone.
The hood, cowl, door, return trim you listed is part of the custom cab aluminum trim. $250.00 plus shipping for whole set, but this is for a long bed and you have a short bed. So, probably won't help you much.
Window trim, I have a complete set of stainless that surrounds the front windshield. I don't have any ss. trim for the rear window, and I'm not sure what you mean for the side windows. If the stainless on the front is what you need, let me know and I'll get you a price. Feel free to email me: ehershkowitz@hotmail.com. I can get you a little quicker reply.
If you still want photos of the longbed trim, let me know.
If you want the windshield Stainless, let me know for price and shipping.
#20
Looking for the interior door panel trim for the custom cabs. Both sides if available and also the door sill trim pieces if they're not eaten up with corrosion. PM me with prices if you;d like.
#23
turn signal switch
Steve:
Yes, I have that. I think you have my email. You're welcome to make what you think is a fair offer....I haven't looked up that part for price comparison. I try to do my parts about 50-60% of "retail". And superCJ, if you're looking, I found another set of interior door trim around the door panel, only it's missing the small corner pieces...only have the four long sections.
Yes, I have that. I think you have my email. You're welcome to make what you think is a fair offer....I haven't looked up that part for price comparison. I try to do my parts about 50-60% of "retail". And superCJ, if you're looking, I found another set of interior door trim around the door panel, only it's missing the small corner pieces...only have the four long sections.
#25
Jon:
Yes, I have a nice door release link. But, that should have nothing to do with the door opening from the outside. The door handle button needs to be adjusted to release the door catch properly. Also, make sure the problem isn't in the door latch/lock/striker mechanism. If you need that let me know. I don't have a catalog in front of me, but usually I'll ask about half of retail price plus shipping. Let me know if the remote link is for sure what you need and when I get home I can get you a price exactly, plus estimate shipping. PM me your zip code, please. ehershkowitz@hotmail.com
Yes, I have a nice door release link. But, that should have nothing to do with the door opening from the outside. The door handle button needs to be adjusted to release the door catch properly. Also, make sure the problem isn't in the door latch/lock/striker mechanism. If you need that let me know. I don't have a catalog in front of me, but usually I'll ask about half of retail price plus shipping. Let me know if the remote link is for sure what you need and when I get home I can get you a price exactly, plus estimate shipping. PM me your zip code, please. ehershkowitz@hotmail.com
#26
Jon:
In reading and responding to your recent post, it doesn't sound like you need a remote link which is how the door opens from the inside. Try adjusting the button on the outside door handle...I think it can be adjusted in and out. Barring that, try adjusting the striker so that it doesn't bind on the latch. There are shims to move the striker closer to the door. Examine it to see where the latch (gear-looking thingy) is hitting. It should contact in the center of the width, not at the outside edge where it can hang up and bind. Let me know if you need photos, or more information.
In reading and responding to your recent post, it doesn't sound like you need a remote link which is how the door opens from the inside. Try adjusting the button on the outside door handle...I think it can be adjusted in and out. Barring that, try adjusting the striker so that it doesn't bind on the latch. There are shims to move the striker closer to the door. Examine it to see where the latch (gear-looking thingy) is hitting. It should contact in the center of the width, not at the outside edge where it can hang up and bind. Let me know if you need photos, or more information.
#27
Jon:
In reading and responding to your recent post, it doesn't sound like you need a remote link which is how the door opens from the inside. Try adjusting the button on the outside door handle...I think it can be adjusted in and out. Barring that, try adjusting the striker so that it doesn't bind on the latch. There are shims to move the striker closer to the door. Examine it to see where the latch (gear-looking thingy) is hitting. It should contact in the center of the width, not at the outside edge where it can hang up and bind. Let me know if you need photos, or more information.
In reading and responding to your recent post, it doesn't sound like you need a remote link which is how the door opens from the inside. Try adjusting the button on the outside door handle...I think it can be adjusted in and out. Barring that, try adjusting the striker so that it doesn't bind on the latch. There are shims to move the striker closer to the door. Examine it to see where the latch (gear-looking thingy) is hitting. It should contact in the center of the width, not at the outside edge where it can hang up and bind. Let me know if you need photos, or more information.
I do appreciate your help. This does sound like what needs to be done. I will let you know how it turns out.
#28
Grille, radiator support, emblems, side trim, instruments sold. Thanks friends, it brings me closer to building my '66. Still have cab panels to section, '66 bed floor and panels, suspension, steering column, window glass and door mechanisms, locks, seats, other dash ***** and controls, bent front bumper and bent rear Fey step bumper free if you pick 'em up....can't think of it all, but message me if you need original parts.
#30
Tow:
Yes, I have the whole frame and suspension. Quicker to email me at ehershkowitz@Hotmail.com. So, without the assembly diagram in front of me:
1)Is that the same as the I-beam?
2) Can I remove it and still roll the truck?
Being able to move it in an out of my way is really important to access my work space right now, since I'm assembling/parting two trucks. I'll look at it Saturday and see what's involved to remove it.
Yes, I have the whole frame and suspension. Quicker to email me at ehershkowitz@Hotmail.com. So, without the assembly diagram in front of me:
1)Is that the same as the I-beam?
2) Can I remove it and still roll the truck?
Being able to move it in an out of my way is really important to access my work space right now, since I'm assembling/parting two trucks. I'll look at it Saturday and see what's involved to remove it.