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  #1  
Old 08-01-2014, 06:09 PM
sseebart sseebart is offline
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Rear Main Seal Blown--62 F100

I'm pretty sure the rear main seal on my 292 is shot. I'm getting a lot of oil out the back--enough to leave a trail down the road when I drive. I looked through some older threads and ruled out anything else that might lead to this much oil loss.

The engine performs well, doesn't smoke and has decent oil pressure (~40 psi at speed with the engine warm, measured by a mechanical gauge), so I'm not using the rear main as an excuse for a full rebuild. But, I do plan to pull the motor to do the job. While it's out, I will also do the clutch, as I'm pretty sure the disk is impregnated with oil.

I do want to do the whole thing over a weekend, so want to have all the parts on hand. Does this sound like a complete list?

Front Main Seal
Rear Main Seal (Rope style)
Oil Pan Gasket Set
Oil Pump Gasket
Clutch Repair Set
Motor Mounts (old ones are shot)
Exhaust Flange Gasket
Timing Chain Cover Gasket Set (inc water pump gasket)

Looks like a variety of clutch sizes are possible, from 10 to 12 inch. The 292 is mated to a T98 4 speed--anyone know what clutch size would be correct?

Anything else I should consider doing with the motor out (aside from perhaps some cleaning in the engine bay)?

~Steve
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  #2  
Old 08-01-2014, 08:44 PM
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TBird Larry TBird Larry is offline
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don't use the rope style rear main seal, use the neoprene replacement one and when you put the main bearing cap on offset the seal on the cap and the block so the mating surfaces are not even with the cap mating surface against the block. If you do it carefully it will never leak and they will not get hard, that's why the old rope seal failed it got hard and old. Make sure to coat the seal surface with oil. Also your rear main bearing may be a little loose also causing the seal to fail. If it is the rear main bearing with excessive wear it will knock out your new seal in no time. When you get that far and it needs a rear main that's where you get to make a decision on weather to stop and pull the engine and do the bottom end or the whole engine. When you pull the cap off you will be able to tell how worn the bearing is.
Hope that helps some.
good luck.
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  #3  
Old 08-02-2014, 06:27 AM
P38fighter P38fighter is offline
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How many miles on the motor? Since its easy to get to and relatively cheap consider changing the water pump and oil pump. I assume you will change the throwout bearing with the new clutch.
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Old 08-02-2014, 09:39 AM
charliemccraney charliemccraney is offline
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All you want to do is not likely to be achieved properly in a weekend. Plan on two weekends, maybe three if you want to do it right.

The reason I say this has to do with the clutch. You will very likely find that the flywheel is cracked. I have not yet seen a good used Y-block flywheel with my own two eyes. The only way to fix this is to replace the flywheel. Surfacing might make it look pretty again but the cracks are still there and you will have clutch problems sooner than later which could be minor or catastrophic.

If the flywheel is good, you need to have it surfaced and it is a very good idea to have the flywheel and pressure plate balanced as an assembly. Many machine shops are not open on weekends.

I think you should have an 11" clutch but after 52 years, there is no telling. You need to pull it first. - another reason it is probably more than a one weekend job.
The 12" that is listed as a replacement is a mistake. It will not bolt to the flywheel.

Origins of oil leaks that can look like the rear main:
Valley pan, rear most bolt holes at the rear of the head on the intake flange, oil pan studs at the very back middle of the pan, oil pump, oil pickup tube where it enters the oil pan, oil filter, spin on oil filter adapter, oil galley plugs along the side of the engine, cam plug and oil galley plugs on the back of the engine.

An excellent article about installing the rear main seal:

Eaton Balancing » Neoprene Rear Seal Installation for the Y (and others)

Regarding anything else you should do, if the leak is the only problem, then I wouldn't touch anything else until a complete rebuild is planned or necessary.
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Old 08-02-2014, 11:13 AM
sseebart sseebart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliemccraney View Post
All you want to do is not likely to be achieved properly in a weekend. Plan on two weekends, maybe three if you want to do it right.

The reason I say this has to do with the clutch. You will very likely find that the flywheel is cracked. I have not yet seen a good used Y-block flywheel with my own two eyes. The only way to fix this is to replace the flywheel. Surfacing might make it look pretty again but the cracks are still there and you will have clutch problems sooner than later which could be minor or catastrophic.

If the flywheel is good, you need to have it surfaced and it is a very good idea to have the flywheel and pressure plate balanced as an assembly. Many machine shops are not open on weekends.

I think you should have an 11" clutch but after 52 years, there is no telling. You need to pull it first. - another reason it is probably more than a one weekend job.
The 12" that is listed as a replacement is a mistake. It will not bolt to the flywheel.

Origins of oil leaks that can look like the rear main:
Valley pan, rear most bolt holes at the rear of the head on the intake flange, oil pan studs at the very back middle of the pan, oil pump, oil pickup tube where it enters the oil pan, oil filter, spin on oil filter adapter, oil galley plugs along the side of the engine, cam plug and oil galley plugs on the back of the engine.

An excellent article about installing the rear main seal:

Eaton Balancing » Neoprene Rear Seal Installation for the Y (and others)

Regarding anything else you should do, if the leak is the only problem, then I wouldn't touch anything else until a complete rebuild is planned or necessary.
Thank for the article on the seal replacement. I saw quite a lot of posts regarding oil leaks, and poking around underneath, I don't see that any of the usual suspects are leaking at the rate I see coming out underneath. At any rate, I'm committed to go in and take a look.

It is like exploratory surgery whenever you open up something like this---hoping not to find damage in there, but am always prepared for projects like this to go long unexpectedly.

Larry--I'll look into the neoprene. When I searched on the Dennis Carpenter site, only the rope type came up. Is there a better source for engine parts?

P38--I will likely change the water pump, but was thinking of keeping the oil pump as it's relatively easy to change if it fails. Also, it's an excellent opportunity to change out that stupid little water hose behind the pump.

~Steve
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  #6  
Old 08-02-2014, 12:03 PM
charliemccraney charliemccraney is offline
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Felpro make seals and gaskets for them and you should be able to pick them up at a local auto parts store. They'll probably have to be ordered but they should be easy to get.

John Mummert is an excellent source for Y-Block parts, FORD Y.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:55 PM
sseebart sseebart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliemccraney View Post
You will very likely find that the flywheel is cracked. I have not yet seen a good used Y-block flywheel with my own two eyes. The only way to fix this is to replace the flywheel. Surfacing might make it look pretty again but the cracks are still there and you will have clutch problems sooner than later which could be minor or catastrophic.
You mean like this?

Click the image to open in full size.

Yeah, I'm getting a new one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by charliemccraney View Post
I think you should have an 11" clutch but after 52 years, there is no telling. You need to pull it first. - another reason it is probably more than a one weekend job.
The 12" that is listed as a replacement is a mistake. It will not bolt to the flywheel.
You were right about the friction plate, too. It's 11". (The manual lists the 12" clutch for larger trucks and transmissions, every auto parts store had a different take on it, too.) The rivets on the friction plate were just starting to rub, not that it makes any difference now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by charliemccraney View Post
Origins of oil leaks that can look like the rear main:
Valley pan, rear most bolt holes at the rear of the head on the intake flange, oil pan studs at the very back middle of the pan, oil pump, oil pickup tube where it enters the oil pan, oil filter, spin on oil filter adapter, oil galley plugs along the side of the engine, cam plug and oil galley plugs on the back of the engine.
There's about a 1/4" of crud built up inside the bellhousing, so I'm betting on rear main. Will know more when I pull the crank out.

~Steve

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:55 PM
 
 
 
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