The studs are very corroded. The front most stud broke like it was nothing!

Been periodically heating the studs up and spraying them down with PB blaster. These usually breaks things loose, but not having much luck. What size are the stud nuts anyways? 12mm? 11mm?

This sucks!



I have a little 90 amp MIG welder, so I will be trying the full the gap and weld on nut method, BUT if I cant get the broken studs out, what kind of shop could? Thanks.

 

couple of comments

-90 amp MIG wont weld a nut on that shank.

- Ive removed plenty of studs by using an easy out extractor which will drill a hole, then you insert a rever thread bit that has a hex head which can be driven by a medium size impact gun.

-if you can remove the manifold and expose all the shanks, there s an extractor socket set sold by sears that will grab the shank, I also drive them out with a medium sized impact gun. this is actually the easiest method and the last person I showed how to do this felt stupid since the shank came out almost immideately.

-it is good that your spraying a penetrate...keep spraying every few hours.

 

I used a 90amp mig on mine and that worked for 2 of the 3 studs that I had broke. The third I had to drill completely out and retap.

 

Dang northern trucks.

 

Ditch the PB Blaster, Kano Kroil or Liquid Wrench are better. Or even better yet make a 50/50 mix of AFT and acetone.

 

I thought it was used brake fluid mixed with ATF.

Thanks for the tips, not really worried about the welder right now, just need to get the manifold off. I just ordered a 12 point deep metric impact set. I need a deep 15mm to take off the downpipe studs anyways, Figured the 12 point will come in handy for hammering on a slightly smaller size on the rusted stud nut.

 

Extractor from Sears.com

Any of those in particular? Are you saying I should try and cut all of the nuts off? That will be near impossible on the bottom four studs I think.


FANTASTIC video I found.

 

I've heard of acetone and brake fluid, but never brake fluid and ATF. Used brake fluid will have absorbed water. You could throw some diesel in for giggles. Just be very very careful with the torch after any of these.

 

I have the one on the extreme left and the one on the extreme right.

If the shank is expose, the one on the left with an impact gun works create. In use a medium sized Dewalt impact gun.

If no shank is exposed, then you have to go the drill holl+reverse thread insert set on the right.

Harbor freight sells these as well for half the price and Autozone sells the drill out extractors individually so you dont need to buy a a whole set

 

The funny thing is my truck has never seen salt, The under side looks like the day it rolled off the assembly line..

 

Look on the bright side, you have a 5.4l which means less studs.

 

The ones on mine still look brand new, but after hearing about all the problems getting them out once they go bad makes me want to go ahead and change them now.

 

HAHA yeah would still rather have the V10!


Got the passenger side manifold completely off! I ground down the top for nuts and the stud let go with vise grips. On the bottom I attacked it right away with a 1/2" deep socket (I thought it was metric, but that fits and 13mm is too loose).



Only issue I had was the upper front most stud, the nut came off and I cant get the stud out. Going to soak the stud in PB and try again tomorrow. I ended up just cutting all 4 down pipe studs as thats all getting trashed anyways.



As you can see, the oil dipstick tube broke off. But honestly I think it was a good thing because it was so rusty inside. Cant seem to pull the tube out of the oil pan, Is there a trick to this?? Soaked it down with PB aswell before I closed the shop.

EDIT: After reading this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-on-5-4-a.html
I am very paranoid about breaking it off at the block. Really dont want to deal with that. Should I pull off the oil filter adapter thing to gain better access to where the tube enters the block? Seems to just disappear behind that...



And any idea what this rubber plug is for?

 

I really try to avoid snapping a stud off flush with the head and then having to drill and extract. Cutting off the nuts with a dremel and then removing the manifold leaves workable studs. I usually apply a little heat and candle wax. Then I use a small pipe wrench to loosen. Pipe wrench puts torque close to head and stud is less likley to break.

 

god I am not looking forward to doing this next week.....