Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Super Duty/Heavy Duty > Super Duty & Heavy Duty
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Super Duty & Heavy Duty 1999 to current Ford F250, F350, F450 and F550 Super Duty with diesel V8 and gas V8 and V10 engines SPONSORED BY:

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 08-01-2014, 02:40 PM
AAubinoe AAubinoe is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 140
AAubinoe is starting off with a positive reputation.
Exhaust manifold removal is much harder then I anticipated.

The studs are very corroded. The front most stud broke like it was nothing!

Been periodically heating the studs up and spraying them down with PB blaster. These usually breaks things loose, but not having much luck. What size are the stud nuts anyways? 12mm? 11mm?

This sucks!

Click the image to open in full size.

I have a little 90 amp MIG welder, so I will be trying the full the gap and weld on nut method, BUT if I cant get the broken studs out, what kind of shop could? Thanks.
__________________
2004 F250 XL, 4x4, 5.4L/4R100, Single cab with an 8 foot Reading utility body, 33" AT's, daily driver with 195K miles
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-01-2014, 02:58 PM
speakerfritz's Avatar
speakerfritz speakerfritz is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 797
speakerfritz is starting off with a positive reputation.
couple of comments

-90 amp MIG wont weld a nut on that shank.

- Ive removed plenty of studs by using an easy out extractor which will drill a hole, then you insert a rever thread bit that has a hex head which can be driven by a medium size impact gun.

-if you can remove the manifold and expose all the shanks, there s an extractor socket set sold by sears that will grab the shank, I also drive them out with a medium sized impact gun. this is actually the easiest method and the last person I showed how to do this felt stupid since the shank came out almost immideately.

-it is good that your spraying a penetrate...keep spraying every few hours.
__________________

Hellwig 7677Rear Sway Bar; Hellwig 61904 Pro-Series Helper Spring with Silent Feature; 2 ofRancho Suspension/Monroe RS999046 Rear Rancho RS9000; 2 of Rancho RS999042RS9000XL Series Shock; Rancho RS98510 Steering Stabilizer Kit; Dee Zee DZ43203Tailgate Assist Shock
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-01-2014, 03:09 PM
Bigpipes 35's Avatar
Bigpipes 35 Bigpipes 35 is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: forest lake minnesota
Posts: 2,934
Bigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant future
I used a 90amp mig on mine and that worked for 2 of the 3 studs that I had broke. The third I had to drill completely out and retap.
__________________
Chris aka FTEMaB 3
2003 F250 fx4 cc short box. 5.4 , 4.30 gears, flowmaster 50 , spd Y pipe , eagle alloys , 285/70/17 nitto terra grapplers, SCT X3 tuned , warn manual hubs, 6.0 trans cooler mod
2006 Keystone sprinter copper canyon
2000 f150 4x4 work truck 4.6 AKA Martha
http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...es35/truck.jpg
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-01-2014, 03:16 PM
mecdac's Avatar
mecdac mecdac is online now
FTEFCM 7
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Jo-juh Sound it out.
Posts: 3,655
mecdac has a superb reputationmecdac has a superb reputationmecdac has a superb reputationmecdac has a superb reputationmecdac has a superb reputationmecdac has a superb reputationmecdac has a superb reputationmecdac has a superb reputationmecdac has a superb reputationmecdac has a superb reputationmecdac has a superb reputation
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigpipes 35 View Post
I used a 90amp mig on mine and that worked for 2 of the 3 studs that I had broke. The third I had to drill completely out and retap.
Dang northern trucks.
__________________
Mark aka FTEMaB #7

"Form never follows function; that is the folly and the vanity of theory"

(Rudolph)
http://vimeo.com/user25371657
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-01-2014, 03:22 PM
texastech_diesel's Avatar
texastech_diesel texastech_diesel is offline
Disgruntled Texan
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Justin, TX
Posts: 5,549
texastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputation
Ditch the PB Blaster, Kano Kroil or Liquid Wrench are better. Or even better yet make a 50/50 mix of AFT and acetone.
__________________
Bryan- 2007 F-250 FX4 6.0L

I'm all jacked up on America right now! Anyone want to hear me recite the Constitution?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-01-2014, 03:27 PM
AAubinoe AAubinoe is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 140
AAubinoe is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by texastech_diesel View Post
Ditch the PB Blaster, Kano Kroil or Liquid Wrench are better. Or even better yet make a 50/50 mix of AFT and acetone.
I thought it was used brake fluid mixed with ATF.

Thanks for the tips, not really worried about the welder right now, just need to get the manifold off. I just ordered a 12 point deep metric impact set. I need a deep 15mm to take off the downpipe studs anyways, Figured the 12 point will come in handy for hammering on a slightly smaller size on the rusted stud nut.
__________________
2004 F250 XL, 4x4, 5.4L/4R100, Single cab with an 8 foot Reading utility body, 33" AT's, daily driver with 195K miles
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-01-2014, 03:37 PM
AAubinoe AAubinoe is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 140
AAubinoe is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by speakerfritz View Post
couple of comments

-90 amp MIG wont weld a nut on that shank.

- Ive removed plenty of studs by using an easy out extractor which will drill a hole, then you insert a rever thread bit that has a hex head which can be driven by a medium size impact gun.

-if you can remove the manifold and expose all the shanks, there s an extractor socket set sold by sears that will grab the shank, I also drive them out with a medium sized impact gun. this is actually the easiest method and the last person I showed how to do this felt stupid since the shank came out almost immideately.

-it is good that your spraying a penetrate...keep spraying every few hours.
Extractor from Sears.com

Any of those in particular? Are you saying I should try and cut all of the nuts off? That will be near impossible on the bottom four studs I think.


FANTASTIC video I found.

__________________
2004 F250 XL, 4x4, 5.4L/4R100, Single cab with an 8 foot Reading utility body, 33" AT's, daily driver with 195K miles
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-01-2014, 03:46 PM
texastech_diesel's Avatar
texastech_diesel texastech_diesel is offline
Disgruntled Texan
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Justin, TX
Posts: 5,549
texastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputationtexastech_diesel has a superb reputation
Quote:
Originally Posted by AAubinoe View Post
I thought it was used brake fluid mixed with ATF.
I've heard of acetone and brake fluid, but never brake fluid and ATF. Used brake fluid will have absorbed water. You could throw some diesel in for giggles. Just be very very careful with the torch after any of these.
__________________
Bryan- 2007 F-250 FX4 6.0L

I'm all jacked up on America right now! Anyone want to hear me recite the Constitution?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-01-2014, 04:09 PM
speakerfritz's Avatar
speakerfritz speakerfritz is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 797
speakerfritz is starting off with a positive reputation.
I have the one on the extreme left and the one on the extreme right.

If the shank is expose, the one on the left with an impact gun works create. In use a medium sized Dewalt impact gun.

If no shank is exposed, then you have to go the drill holl+reverse thread insert set on the right.

Harbor freight sells these as well for half the price and Autozone sells the drill out extractors individually so you dont need to buy a a whole set
__________________

Hellwig 7677Rear Sway Bar; Hellwig 61904 Pro-Series Helper Spring with Silent Feature; 2 ofRancho Suspension/Monroe RS999046 Rear Rancho RS9000; 2 of Rancho RS999042RS9000XL Series Shock; Rancho RS98510 Steering Stabilizer Kit; Dee Zee DZ43203Tailgate Assist Shock
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-01-2014, 05:19 PM
Bigpipes 35's Avatar
Bigpipes 35 Bigpipes 35 is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: forest lake minnesota
Posts: 2,934
Bigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant futureBigpipes 35 has a brilliant future
Quote:
Originally Posted by mecdac View Post
Dang northern trucks.
The funny thing is my truck has never seen salt, The under side looks like the day it rolled off the assembly line..
__________________
Chris aka FTEMaB 3
2003 F250 fx4 cc short box. 5.4 , 4.30 gears, flowmaster 50 , spd Y pipe , eagle alloys , 285/70/17 nitto terra grapplers, SCT X3 tuned , warn manual hubs, 6.0 trans cooler mod
2006 Keystone sprinter copper canyon
2000 f150 4x4 work truck 4.6 AKA Martha
http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...es35/truck.jpg
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-01-2014, 06:25 PM
dkf's Avatar
dkf dkf is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Pa
Posts: 9,303
dkf is a splendid one to beholddkf is a splendid one to beholddkf is a splendid one to beholddkf is a splendid one to beholddkf is a splendid one to beholddkf is a splendid one to beholddkf is a splendid one to behold
Look on the bright side, you have a 5.4l which means less studs.
__________________
"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants." (Thomas Jefferson)
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-01-2014, 07:28 PM
phillips91 phillips91 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Pennington Gap, VA
Posts: 3,625
phillips91 is a splendid one to beholdphillips91 is a splendid one to beholdphillips91 is a splendid one to beholdphillips91 is a splendid one to beholdphillips91 is a splendid one to beholdphillips91 is a splendid one to beholdphillips91 is a splendid one to behold
The ones on mine still look brand new, but after hearing about all the problems getting them out once they go bad makes me want to go ahead and change them now.
__________________
Josh P. Moderator Super Duty Forum

2000 F-250 5.4, manual, 4x4, 4.10 rear.
1992 Bronco 5.0, auto, 4x4, 3.73 rear

www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-01-2014, 10:17 PM
AAubinoe AAubinoe is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 140
AAubinoe is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkf View Post
Look on the bright side, you have a 5.4l which means less studs.
HAHA yeah would still rather have the V10!


Got the passenger side manifold completely off! I ground down the top for nuts and the stud let go with vise grips. On the bottom I attacked it right away with a 1/2" deep socket (I thought it was metric, but that fits and 13mm is too loose).

Click the image to open in full size.

Only issue I had was the upper front most stud, the nut came off and I cant get the stud out. Going to soak the stud in PB and try again tomorrow. I ended up just cutting all 4 down pipe studs as thats all getting trashed anyways.

Click the image to open in full size.

As you can see, the oil dipstick tube broke off. But honestly I think it was a good thing because it was so rusty inside. Cant seem to pull the tube out of the oil pan, Is there a trick to this?? Soaked it down with PB aswell before I closed the shop.

EDIT: After reading this thread: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...-on-5-4-a.html
I am very paranoid about breaking it off at the block. Really dont want to deal with that. Should I pull off the oil filter adapter thing to gain better access to where the tube enters the block? Seems to just disappear behind that...

Click the image to open in full size.

And any idea what this rubber plug is for?

Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
2004 F250 XL, 4x4, 5.4L/4R100, Single cab with an 8 foot Reading utility body, 33" AT's, daily driver with 195K miles
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-01-2014, 10:17 PM
xd2200 xd2200 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 76
xd2200 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I really try to avoid snapping a stud off flush with the head and then having to drill and extract. Cutting off the nuts with a dremel and then removing the manifold leaves workable studs. I usually apply a little heat and candle wax. Then I use a small pipe wrench to loosen. Pipe wrench puts torque close to head and stud is less likley to break.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-02-2014, 12:22 AM
02 Super Duty Guy's Avatar
02 Super Duty Guy 02 Super Duty Guy is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 116
02 Super Duty Guy is starting off with a positive reputation.
god I am not looking forward to doing this next week.....
Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2014, 12:22 AM
 
 
 
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
12mm or 14mm wheel Studs Gage2502 Expedition & Navigator 11 06-29-2013 04:25 PM
Lug Nuts Bundy34 Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels 1 03-10-2012 02:42 AM
Thorley Header Install Ex03AK Modular V10 (6.8l) 35 08-24-2010 11:40 PM
Lug Nut Torque MisterCMK Expedition & Navigator 0 01-08-2008 12:28 PM
'96 302 exhaust manifold stud wildboar12 1978 - 1996 Big Bronco 2 11-07-2005 03:25 PM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Super Duty/Heavy Duty > Super Duty & Heavy Duty

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:13 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup