Exhaust manifold removal is much harder then I anticipated.
#61
POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating
A gallon would easily do the entire frame. I used maybe 3/4 of a quart doing the entire front axle, suspention, brake shields, and frame to about the trans crossmember.
The drips on the concrete in my shop dried like drips of melted plastic! Just saying you get what you pay for and would be a good investment if you plan to keep your truck for a long time.
#62
#63
#64
i took my V10 to an exhaust shop this week to put my doug thorley headers on. It took them 3 days, had to drill out 13 bolts out of the heads. It ended up costing $2500 (including 2 new O2 sensors). I'm glad I didn't sign myself up for that, though it was extremely expensive.
#65
This stuff works very good. I sprayed it on the frame after I cleaned it as best I could with a wire brush and air gun. Still wiped it down with brake clean before painting though.
Klean-Strip 1-gal. Phosphoric Prep and Etch-GKPA30220 at The Home Depot
#66
Bumping this thread to ask how the Gibson headers are holding out? I just ordered a set of Gibson GP126S-1C (ceramic coated) and not sure if I'll tackle the install or not (busy as hell at work and coaching three sons playing baseball). Paid $467 shipped, so I feel like price was good when compared to new exhaust manifolds and hardware from Ford (which would have been in the ballpark of $400).
My truck only has 67k miles and I just noticed one broken stud on passenger side manifold this weekend after hearing what sounded like an exhaust leak under initial throttle from stop. IMO, it's not worth just replacing the studs and reusing the stock exhaust manifolds since they are the reason the studs break anyway. Headers don't hold the heat like manifolds, so they should cool and contract a little closer to the rate of aluminum so hopefully this one will a one time fix and never again have this issue. Plus my truck already has a few mods so whatever performance and mileage the headers offer, however marginal that might be, will be welcomed.
My truck only has 67k miles and I just noticed one broken stud on passenger side manifold this weekend after hearing what sounded like an exhaust leak under initial throttle from stop. IMO, it's not worth just replacing the studs and reusing the stock exhaust manifolds since they are the reason the studs break anyway. Headers don't hold the heat like manifolds, so they should cool and contract a little closer to the rate of aluminum so hopefully this one will a one time fix and never again have this issue. Plus my truck already has a few mods so whatever performance and mileage the headers offer, however marginal that might be, will be welcomed.
#67
#68
Bumping this thread to ask how the Gibson headers are holding out? I just ordered a set of Gibson GP126S-1C (ceramic coated) and not sure if I'll tackle the install or not (busy as hell at work and coaching three sons playing baseball). Paid $467 shipped, so I feel like price was good when compared to new exhaust manifolds and hardware from Ford (which would have been in the ballpark of $400).
My truck only has 67k miles and I just noticed one broken stud on passenger side manifold this weekend after hearing what sounded like an exhaust leak under initial throttle from stop. IMO, it's not worth just replacing the studs and reusing the stock exhaust manifolds since they are the reason the studs break anyway. Headers don't hold the heat like manifolds, so they should cool and contract a little closer to the rate of aluminum so hopefully this one will a one time fix and never again have this issue. Plus my truck already has a few mods so whatever performance and mileage the headers offer, however marginal that might be, will be welcomed.
My truck only has 67k miles and I just noticed one broken stud on passenger side manifold this weekend after hearing what sounded like an exhaust leak under initial throttle from stop. IMO, it's not worth just replacing the studs and reusing the stock exhaust manifolds since they are the reason the studs break anyway. Headers don't hold the heat like manifolds, so they should cool and contract a little closer to the rate of aluminum so hopefully this one will a one time fix and never again have this issue. Plus my truck already has a few mods so whatever performance and mileage the headers offer, however marginal that might be, will be welcomed.
How did your install go? If I had the choice, I would not have let the stock ones get this bad, but my dad didn't know any better.
#69
Hey, have not logged in a while. They are holding up very well. Make sure you tighten them periodically. I think the interval was 100 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles, 1500 miles, and then they stop getting loose. I think they will last longer then the OEM manifolds. I do not think they added much power, but my truck is pretty high miles, and running 33" tires with stock 3.73 gears.
How did your install go? If I had the choice, I would not have let the stock ones get this bad, but my dad didn't know any better.
How did your install go? If I had the choice, I would not have let the stock ones get this bad, but my dad didn't know any better.
I let a local trusted shop do my install the other day. My shop lift is tied up with my '67 Mustang ragtop restoration and with summer coming on and more towing duties for my truck I decided to hire out this job. Cost me $326 and the only two broken studs they encountered were the ones already broken. They advised that they soaked the bolts with penetrating oil for 24 hours before starting.
The results: a very noticeable change in the exhaust sound. More throaty and with a slight pulsing, it sounds great!! The power increase: definite increase, I can feel the difference (maybe it's just more enhanced than what others have noticed due to my truck's preexisting mods).
At around $800 all-in for the header purchase and labor for install, it's a good investment since the stock manifolds can be problematic after a while.
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