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  #31  
Old 08-04-2014, 12:19 AM
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well the pre job spraying has begun.....I have new stainless bolts ready to go in and we'll see what happens
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  #32  
Old 08-04-2014, 12:26 AM
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When you put the new bolts in do you use
the nickel based anti-size? I know that has
a higher heat rating than the aluminum based.


Sean Click the image to open in full size.
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  #33  
Old 08-04-2014, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AAubinoe View Post
WHAT!!?! The list price on the 1999-2004 cast iron manifold from ford is like $180!
Not for the V10. List was $972.80.

Quote:
Think I will gain any MPG? Always seem to get 9-10. highway or city. do have a large ladder rack and 33s with stock 3.73s though.
Nope. Unfortunately an exhaust leak is unlikely to hurt your fuel economy.
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  #34  
Old 08-04-2014, 05:30 PM
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rockauto.com right manifold $285, left, $322 A set of Thorleys is cheaper lol
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  #35  
Old 08-05-2014, 08:14 PM
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started my manifold job today..what a bitch. the good thing is, 3 of the top 4 studs were snapped lol so didn't have to worry about those, anyone have some tips on how to get the lower ones off? I was thinking air powered die grinder seeing as how all the nuts are so rusty I cant put a socket on them
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  #36  
Old 08-05-2014, 08:22 PM
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damn didnt even think about the v10. Costly!

So I had some more time today to work on the truck. Thank god i dont need these truck for daily work, or else id be in trouble. Something to consider when you need your truck monday morning and you have rusty manifolds to remove.

First, the driver side is completely done. I had one last stud that the nut spun off. Stuck a nut on and welded it and it came out. So I officially broke zero studs on that side.

Second, I GOT THE DIPSTICK OUT

Click the image to open in full size.

Basically what I did was take the down pipe off (you need a new gasket for that triangle flange) and I dropped the front driveshaft. Then you can roll under the truck and get a good view of the hole in the block, right behind the aluminum oil filter adaptor.

Click the image to open in full size.

I heated the tube where it entered the block till it was orange, then cooled it with PB blaster. I did this 3 times, hitting the lip above the block with that pry bar. Eventually I got it to spin in the block ( o ring let go) and I was able to tap it out with that chisel.



Still have not gotten the passenger manifold off, however. I treated the 3 remaining studs to the MAP torch and PB blaster. I was able to fit a 12mm 12 point socket on the lower rearmost stud, and it came out BUT was also broken off in the block (just like the stud directly above it. The break did not look fresh, and I think the manifold was warped so bad it broke both of those studs.
-So thats 3 broken studs in the block on that side...

These two studs are what I have left: Click the image to open in full size.

The two lower nuts were so corroded the 12mm spun on it, and the 11mm would not seat. I think I am going to stop messing around and slice off the nut with the oxy-acetylene, and then try to work the stud out.
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  #37  
Old 08-05-2014, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02 Super Duty Guy View Post
started my manifold job today..what a bitch. the good thing is, 3 of the top 4 studs were snapped lol so didn't have to worry about those, anyone have some tips on how to get the lower ones off? I was thinking air powered die grinder seeing as how all the nuts are so rusty I cant put a socket on them
Yeah they are a bitch. The ones on the driver side all broke free with a 13mm. I really am stumped. I think the only way is to cut the stud with a torch, pull the manifold off, heat the remaining stud till its orange and work it back and worth gently with some vise-grips.

Whats your plan on getting the broken studs out? Any broken below the surface?
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  #38  
Old 08-05-2014, 11:08 PM
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just be careful with the torch, I would imagine since they are alum. heads we'd have to worry about warpage?? I don't think any are broken below the surface yet, my plan honestly is to spray the **** out of them, put a vice grip on them and work them back and forth with a little heat till they move..if they snap off in the head I guess it'll be time to break out the tap and die set..i swear if the fumes didn't come into the cab when I ran the heat, this truck would stay this loud lol
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  #39  
Old 08-05-2014, 11:11 PM
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the nuts on the flange to the Y-pipe were so rusty, I couldn't get a socket on them either and had to cut the bolts from the manifold...thank god I have an extra one I figured the one on there has to be so warped its ruined anyways...also I have my jack stand under the front axle tube...is it safe to unbolt the shock and shock tower with it like this? howd you do it?
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  #40  
Old 08-06-2014, 12:40 AM
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tapping the hole is not what im worried about, its getting a drill in there! I think I may have to build up the stud with weld, and then weld on a nut, like in this write up:

http://www.frontiernet.net/~jmray/F250ExhMani.htm

-Your not going to warp the head by just cutting of the nut. aluminum is not THAT sensitive.

-The problem with the vise grips is that there is absolutely no room on the center 2 bolts because of the engine crossmember. You need to get that manifold off. Hopping the heat will help brake it too, because the MAP torch just is not working anymore. I will probably weld a nut on to the remaining stud as well.

- Yeah I just cut the manifold bolts with an air cut off wheel. the manifolds were trash anyways.

-I would take the shock off first. Hopefully your shock tower is bolted on, and then its just 3 bolts (the nuts have a tab to keep them from spinning).




And do yourself a favor and check that engine dipstick tube for rust!
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  #41  
Old 08-07-2014, 11:21 AM
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yea didn't think about the drill..or the fact that the vice grips wont fit....yea my tower is bolted so that'll be coming off next, and I also have a large B tank, which is acetlyne..if that doesn't get it off, I don't know what will..and I will def check my dipstick tube lol
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  #42  
Old 08-08-2014, 10:09 AM
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Hey guys how should I approach this? For the top I am going to go get a left handed drill bit. The bottom is only accessible with a right angle drill, but I want to try welding it out first. Problem is my little 90 amp is birdnesting where it enters the liner. I tried loosing the drive wheel, but then it just slips. I need something better!!

Anyways, if anyone has been here before, how do I not f this up? Think I will give it a couple more cycles of getting it orange hot, then rapidly cool with the PB blaster.

Click the image to open in full size.




Oh and to get those two remaining lower studs out, I used this. Worth every cent of $31. Probably cheaper online, but it was taunting me at advance auto last night. Worked better then I could have ever imagined.

Click the image to open in full size.

And this was the source of the leak, worst I have ever seen.

Click the image to open in full size.



HEADERS!!! Talk about an improvement.
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #43  
Old 08-08-2014, 12:28 PM
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For the 2 broken off below the surface. I would most likely try an eze out first. Center punch in the middle of the stud, pilot or center drill and then drill the proper drill for the eze-out. It is best if the drill for the eze out is a left handed cobalt drill. Don't go too big with the eze out and get it centered as best you can.

For the welder. I have been there with feeding issues. My Millermatic 175 can act up sometimes especially on .023"-.025" wire. Try to get the welder running good on some scrap steel. You can get better penetration on the weld if you preheat the stud and area a little. You don't have much juice there with only a 90 amp welder.

Believe me even with an oxyacetylene torch with a rosebud tip it is going to a while to heat the head up enough to warp it. Aluminum is a heat sucker.
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  #44  
Old 08-08-2014, 03:56 PM
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jesus im scared lol..I took a few days off cuz I don't want to deal with it
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  #45  
Old 08-08-2014, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkf View Post
For the 2 broken off below the surface. I would most likely try an eze out first. Center punch in the middle of the stud, pilot or center drill and then drill the proper drill for the eze-out. It is best if the drill for the eze out is a left handed cobalt drill. Don't go too big with the eze out and get it centered as best you can.

For the welder. I have been there with feeding issues. My Millermatic 175 can act up sometimes especially on .023"-.025" wire. Try to get the welder running good on some scrap steel. You can get better penetration on the weld if you preheat the stud and area a little. You don't have much juice there with only a 90 amp welder.

Believe me even with an oxyacetylene torch with a rosebud tip it is going to a while to heat the head up enough to warp it. Aluminum is a heat sucker.
Got a question for you. When you put the studs back in are you using any
thing like nickel based anti-size?

Sean Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 08-08-2014, 04:09 PM
 
 
 
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