it is a bolt in deal, but make sure you get EVERYTHING that touches the axle, from springs to steering components.
Moderator of the "not wrapped too tight forum"
rarely in life do you meet a person that will drop everything to help a stranger,
and give the shirt off his back to a friend.
Steve Price was that kind of person.
Godspeed "window licker", the short bus will never be the same with you gone.
due too very low budget im looking at the badlands 12000 winch.
I think you're getting ahead of yourself. Don't loose focus, maybe make a list in order of priority.
Would be nice to have
Would be fun to have
Would look cool to have
Then think about where your money is going to better spent..
1985 F-250XL 4WD, 460, Ford 10.25" rear, Dana 44 TTB
I just did this recently, but I spent a lot of time doing things in advance so the actual swap was rather quick and painless. Was it worth the work? Most of the benefits will come long term as my alignment issues are mostly resolved, I get some lift due to the F350 springs and can run 35s using a cut or aftermarket bumper, and the steering radius is tighter.
Not worth the hassle for a "trail rig" unless you plan on locking it. AND getting rid of, or upgrading the spline count on your rear.
Here's how I'd go at it:
Minor build for cheap: find a sterling 10.25 or 10.5" with a limited slip and repack it. Crazy easy to find for cheap. I see them regularly for about $200 and they are ***way*** more durable than the dana rear unless you upgrade to 35 spline in it.
Slightly better capability: find a sterling rear and put a ratchet locker in it *not a lunchbox* if you want better handling and better durability.
Good offroad capability: Sterling rear with ratchet locker, dana 60 with ratchet locker and possibly 35 spline stubs and hubs.
I wouldn't even consider the hassle of live axle up front unless you need a locker in the front.
86 f350 6.9/T18/bw1345 Steel clutch traclok (bye bye Yukon ), Aussie front, 35 spline stubs and 3.55's. Uuuuuugly and riding on poly.
Is there anything to be gained? Yes. Is it worth the cost, and what other mods are better bang for the buck? Up to you.
A D60 will have stronger shafts than a TTB D50. But as others have said, the D50 shafts are plenty strong unless you add a locker (and even then aren't clearly too weak.
Clearance for bigger tires
Not a factor if you aren't planning to install bigger tires. But you get about a 3" lift putting a D60 in, and lifting it even more than that is pretty straightforward. Of course you can lift a TTB as well, but the money you spend on a TTB lift would go quite a ways toward a SAS with more benefits.
You will likely get more front wheel travel out of any SAS. You definitely can get more if you are trying for it. Then again, lack of wheel travel wasn't much of an issue when I fourwheeled my '85 F-250. It had so much frame flex that it always kept all 4 tires on the ground anyway.
This would be the biggest benefit for me. The leaf spring TTB is STIFF. if I were doing an SAS on a trail truck I'd go with custom springs with a lower spring rate than standard F-350 springs. But most people say that even F-350 springs on an SAS ride better than a leaf spring TTB (not everyone agrees with that though). Trail running in my '85 F-250 was brutal. I had to crawl any trail that was any rougher than a decent gravel road. Having a softer front (and rear, but especially front) suspension would have made trail running a lot more fun in that truck.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.