Hi all,

I've been away a while, but it's good to see the boards are still lively, and to see some familiar screen names.

I'm looking at a '95 F150 2x4, 4.9, 5MOD RC Shorty, and it originally had dual tanks. I can't remember for sure, but I believe the rear tank is still in place, and looking very good--in any event, one tank is just g-o-n-e.

The truck has a bad, RatRod-esque, 100% flat, PEELING RE-paint, Southern-fried interior (with A/C, which allegedly works ). The interior will need to be completely replaced, but this truck appears to have ZERO rust (as in never, underneath, at all) so I'm assuming it had to come from warmer/drier climes.

I have not yet heard it run, but I'm told it's got about 147K on the odo, and that the large oil leak is due to a bad power steering tube fitting.

He wants $1,200. and I feel it might be worth that as a roller, if someone wanted a project, so I'd be happy if it ran well, looks be damned.

My Questions:
1. Can anyone ballpark the price of a new gas tank, lift pump/sending unit, straps, etc? (I don't know if the tank switching valve is in place, so I realize that could be another $75.+).

2. Do I want a plastic tank? Are there any drawbacks to a plastic tank?

3. Can anyone suggest a known-good supplier for a plastic tank, the lift pump/sending unit, etc...?
The tank switch is jammed into the dash, and the tubing leading to the existing tank is all wrong, but I feel that these are minor matters.

4. Any ideas what a shop at $95./hr. would charge to install the tank, replace the bad (plastic) fuel lines, and possibly rewire/replace the switch? Would a shop really pull the box off, given the lack of corrosion, to make the job go faster?

Thanks in advance.

BigSix1

 

IIRC the short beds had the 16 gallon tank mid-ship.

I changed out the mid-ship tank myself. It wasn't too bad. My receipt says $89 from Advance Auto for the tank and the straps. I used my old pump and sending unit since it was still working just fine.

Advance Auto has some pretty great deals when you use their online coupon codes and pick it up in the local store.

I decided to tackle it myself when I got some insane quotes ($800 to $1000) for a new tank. Note that those quotes included labor, new tank, new straps, new hanger, new pump, and new sending unit.

The 95 will use the high pressure in tank pump. There's no additional in-line pump. The pump and sending unit are both screwed into the hanger. Spectra Premium made my tank and straps and they were pretty damn decent. I'd definately use a Spectra Premium brand pump, hanger, and sending unit.

http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/

Once you got the Spectra part numbers, you can check amazon.com or ebay.com. Rockauto.com was very valuable in helping to determine the Motocraft part numbers.

In your case, Spectra has a complete tank with sender, pump, and hanger ready to install. Part number F14C1FA


I thought about a plastic tank for about 1 minute. My rationale was that the truck's metal tank lasted 15 years. If I have to change the tank again in 15 years, that's fine by me.

 

warren561,

Thank you, so much, for your very comprehensive answer!

And I do apologize for taking so long to get back. This has been a very difficult year, which is all I can say without getting into a whole “thing,” but I’m taking care of my wife, who is dealing with some potentially-serious health issues that basically amount to a part-time job, therapy-wise, for both of us—and a very anxiety-ridden one at that. And I won’t risk “jinxing” anyone by saying that things are looking up (and I KNOCK ON REAL WOOD, THREE TIMES, as I type this).

A-n-y-w-a-y, again, please allow me to thank you, for your very comprehensive post.

I did as you said, and checked F14C1FA part number, on Amazon, and the tank, pump, sending unit and "hanger" were only like $238.? Which I thought was great! The only review I saw did say this, but it doesn't bother me:

I won't let that reveiw discourage me, as I like the fact the tanks are Canadian-made (like many of our Fords? LOL), but I do plan to nail down the issue of who pays shipping to return a tank, and reship, if that becomes necessary.

I didn't see straps with the Spectr kit, but I was going to look on Ford Truck Parts and Truck Accessories from LMCTruck.com. I also get this place's paper catalog in the mail: 1980-1996 Ford Truck Parts | NPD, though I've not yet used, or even explored, either one yet.

Is the "hanger" you mentioned just a ring that the sending unit and pump mount into the tank with?

And thank you for reminding me that these later, 9th-gen. trucks didn't have a separate lift and high pressure pump. My '88 had a high pressure pump on the frame rail.

Is the fuel tank switching mechanism still the same as on the 8th gen. trucks? On my '88 F150, it was a polymer valve body, mounted in the frame, that had no electrical connections running to it. Rather, it used the incoming pressure from the newly-selected tank to "shunt" a valve, to draw from one tank or the other.

Are plastic tanks more money? They would seem more resistant to minor impact damage than a metal tank, but I do fear a seam splitting, in a major impact, with plastic, more than metal.

Anyway, thanks so much--you've been a tremendous help!

(I'm hoping others will jump in on the plastic-ml

Sincerely,

BigSix1

 

Plastic tanks are tough. The OEM tanks under go crash testing just the same as the steel tanks. Plus you eliminate the chance of long term rust issues.

 

It's not the ring. I can't find a good photo, but the ring is a locking ring that holds the hanger on to the opening on the top of the tank. The locking ring and o-ring make the seal. Locking ring and o-ring usually comes with the tank.

The "hanger" is the part that the sending unit and pump mounts to. It has the round plate at the top that the electrical connector and the fuel hoses come out of and it has a bracket that "hangs" down into the tank where the sending unit and pump mount on it.


Someone else will know more than me, but on the 9th gen trucks, the fuel pump is known as a "fuel delivery module" and it contains a check valve gizmo to prevent cross-fueling.

From what I understand the only switching mechanism is the application of electrical power to the fuel pump in the front or rear tank (based on the switch on the dashboard).

Double-check with Amazon. The description for the F14C1FA says that it includes straps...

Spectra sells decent straps as well. Check the Spectra catalog online, then search Amazon (or eBay or Advance Auto Parts) via the Spectra part number.
ecat

You're doing the mid-ship tank on a short bed, right? I think the short beds had a 16 gallon mid-ship tank (vs the 19 gallon on the long beds).
I think you need the ST05 straps.


Are you sure that your pump and sender are bad?


The one thing you'll need from LMC is the gasket/o-ring for the fuel vent valve. The part number is 40-1241.

Since you've gone this far, assume that your vent valve is plugged with cobwebs and replace it. The part number is 40-1955.

When I replaced my mid-ship tank, I re-used the existing filler neck. Note that the filler neck has two hoses, the inside plastic hose and the outside rubber hose. If you order a new filler neck (Spectra FN542 for mid-ship tank), you only get the inside plastic hose. My outer rubber hose was pretty dry rotted, so I replaced it. The only place I could find one was from LMC (43-3353 for mid-ship tank).

 

Warren561,

WOW, man--you really are a "One-stop Shopping" kind of guy--and I REALLY appreciate it!!!

Hey--I'm sorry this response was so long in coming, but I REALLY appreciate all the time and effort you put into this, and how you addressed virtually all of my specific questions, then went ABOVE AND BEYOND, with the info on the vent, gasket, filler neck, etc....

I actually think your posts should constitute a "Sticky," re: gas tank replacement, if any of the Mods are reading this, for what my opinion is worth.


Thank you for you VERY comprehensive answers. They were most helpful!


And yes, you are correct--I missed the fact that the Spectra tank, from Amazon, includes the straps. I also missed the fact that it's FREE SHIPPING.


And thank you for the explication of what the "hanger" actually is.


I especially appreciate your sound advice to get the "...gasket/o-ring for the fuel vent valve. The part number is 40-1241...", including the link to the correct part number.


Ditto re: your advice re: this: Because that's the kind of thing that can ruin a good day--like when those spyders have clogged your gas grill's gas orifices. LOL I will DEFINITELY get these extra "bits and pieces" since, as you said, I've "gone this far." (Assuming I buy this truck, which I'm VERY interested in. And even if not this truck, these trucks, as you know, periodically often need the tanks done, so please know that you're efforts were not wasted, whether I get this truck or not).


I also appreciate the update on how they've prevented the "cross fueling" issue. I can remember seeing a diesel, brought back to the dealership on a Friday afternoon, and just left, by one VERY P.O.'d owner, RUNNING, as it spewed diesel from (presumably a vent?) from one of the tanks, presumably "trying to fill the other," right out onto the parking lot. He just left it running, tossed the keys to the Service Writer, and said "Fix it!" (His words were actually a little more colorful than that, but I realize that this is a family site--LOL).


And also, thanks for the heads-up on the (weird, to me) tank filler neck construction. I've replaced metal ones before, but I've never even heard of a filler neck with a plastic inner core and a rubber outer one. I will definitely go the way you did, if need be.


Side Note: One the '97 Outback (and I think other years) there is a plastic guard, down low on the elbow in the filler neck, just for about maybe 8", encasing the bottom side of the metal filler neck. And perfectly located to collect dirt, mud, moisture, etc.... A new metal neck (from the stealership) was (IIRC) about $125., and the job, including P & L, was approx. $250. I bought just the neck, PAINTED IT (what is it with the OEM's, selling UNPAINTED PARTS???) and decided to do it myself, rather than pay the labor.

My point is, I think that the "plastic core/rubber outer hose" might just be one of Ford's "Better Ideas," at least compared to the lash-up on the Outback.


Thanks so much, Warren. I don't mind telling you that I kind of moved away from this site some years ago, when I became discouraged, as it seemed that the 8th and 9th generation trucks had largely either been "Cashed for Clunkers" or handed down to teenagers who had more testosterone than experience (not that I'm an ageist--I have some very good friends among the "young 20-something's" crowd, myself. It just seemed, to me at least, a few years ago, that there wasn't as many knowledgeable folks on this site, with the years of experience that I had come to expect (and try to bring to the site myself, when I'm on a topic I'm knowledgeable about, myself) as there used to be, that were owning, and interested in, the 8th and 9th gen. trucks.

Thank you for disabusing me of this MIS-perception, Warren--I look forward to being a more active participant, in the future--and you've had more than a little to do with that, with your VERY detail-oriented, comprehensive responses. (All to often, I'll write a "longish"--as in, perhaps even longer, but on-topic, post, than yours, and someone will complain that it's "too long." To which I would reply: "Well, don't freakin' read it then, buddy! Sheesh!) So it's nice, and rewarding, to see someone more concerned with conveying complete information, rather than just doing the minimum. Let's hear it for the detail-oriented guys (and gals)! LOL

All the best,

BigSix1

 

I have a question about the fuel vent valve. P/N 40-1955 and 40-1956 are on different planets. I have a '95 F-150 with the 300/six, SWB, and a rusted, leaking front tank. I found this post to make sure I had all the right parts on hand and I am very glad I did.

Without crawling under there, is there an easy way to know if it's the 1-port vent (40-1955) or the 2-port (40-1956)? Thank you very kindly for your experience and expertise!

Cheers,
John

 

I believe, and someone will correct me, is that the 2-ports are quite rare. Most trucks that I've ever seen are 1-port. My truck is a '96 F-150 with 300/six also, but LWB. It has a 1-port valve. I'm willing to bet your truck has a 1-port valve also.

If you look at the price list from LMC, the 2-port is quite a bit more expensive than the 1-port ($119 vs $19). That to me, tells me that the 2-ports are rare.

Maybe only CA emission trucks use the 2-ports? Or the Heavy-Duty trucks?

 

I'm debating just trying to clean out the old vent when I drop that tank. In a cruel twist of events, my rear pump just quit on me. Fortunately, the front tank runs fine but I can't put more than a half tank of fuel or it will slowly leak out the rusted spot.

Basically, I can still drive since the front tank pump is fine, and the front tank running saved me a lot of troubleshooting effort to identify a dead pump. Voltage was fine at the pigtail to the pump but won't make any pressure at the rail when energized. QED, dead pump.

Got to love a truck where having a dead fuel pump doesn't sideline it!

Anyways, just want to throw another "thanks" out to the thread participants, especially for the good ideas on parts sources.

Cheers,
John

 

I notice that you're in HI. Shipping from LMC is probably pretty costly.

This thread has the Ford part numbers for the 1-port valve and gasket.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-and-seal.html

Maybe you can find a cheaper one or an equivalent locally?

 

Thanks for picking up on that. I actually just PCS'd from Hawaii to Georgia. Unfortunately, all my best tools are on the slow boat with my Hanes and Chilton manuals.

I'll look for one closer. BTW- Amazon sells the whole gas tank with pumps, senders, straps, and wiring harness matching the factory pigtail for $218, free shipping with Prime.