SD PCMs are tuned for split shot injectors. You couldn't run an SD PCM without a chip tuning it for the OBS injectors. Really no gain from swapping to an SD PCM.

 

Bill, I was just reading some threads on PSN/PSA and people did it there, just curious about the added provisions, once it was programmed for an OBS.

 

Doesn't seem to me to be any benefit from it unless you put the split shot injectors from an SD in with it. If you were gonna tune the SD pcm with a chip to run single shot injectors, may as well just leave the OBS pcm in it I would think.

 

It's honestly more work than I want to think about right now. I should really just focus on rebuilding the truck, and upgrading what I have, I was just mulling it around a bit in my head.

 

You get your injector wiring figured out? Get it running?

 

Thanks to your help I got it wired right! I still needed to solder the connections before I left. I think the IDM is fried, or hell, could just be the CPS. I bought another IDM to test/upgrade when I get back. I should probably test for continuity too. Quick question on the turbo, when I'm cranking, how hard should it be sucking in air? Gotta go to work, but I'll be back on about 8am your time.

 

Shouldn't be pulling in much air when cranking I would think.

 

Then it would be an electrical issue I'm having. Might as well go the SD UVCH. I was looking at the swap, and one showed the wires just get spliced in, and I think I saw one that used the whole IDM harness for the swap. Which is the best way to go about that?

 

Since SDs have e-fuel, is the electric pump controlled by the PCM? That might be the only advantage to an SD PCM, but even that is probably not worth it since you easily wire up an electric pump like MOOSE MACHINE did and get the same get the same effectiveness as a computer controlled pump.

 

I think that is why they did it. Probably for a tighter fuel curve.

 

I never heard of the PCM swap. Like bill said, if you really want split shot injectors, I guess, but why not just do stage 1's or better?

Seems like lots of work for little gain...

 

Sounds like a great way to waste a lot of time you can't get back..smh

 

OK GUYS I NEED HELP HERE

I spent a few hours in the barn tonight getting everything ready to crank the engine over. Always wanting to be on the cautious side I decided to go the route of pulling the gps to spin the engine over without a load to let it lube itself up real good before actually starting it. However, it never lubed!

I had a multimeter hooked up to my e-fuel oil pressure switch at the oil filter hoping that it would show continuity once pressure was established.

Well, it never did and the HPOP reservoir never got oil to it (dipstick check)), after about 2 mins of total cranking (though only 30 seconds of continuous cranking so as to not burn the starter)

So my question is: can anyone confirm that just the starter spinning the engine over is enough to draw oil up the pickup tube and build low pressure thought the engine? Or do you have to fill the HPOP reservoir to get the engine to start so that it can spin fast enough to create low oil pressure?

...I sure hope I'm not int he same boat as Nick with an oil pump problem...

Oh and like him, my 3/4 pre-filled oil filter never got any fuller :-(

 

Did you have the lpop off?

 

I'm almost positive the starter spins things fast enough to pump oil with the LPOP. It's a gear rotor pump so it shouldn't really be dependent on the cranking speed. I also know I have started them in the past without doing all the bleeding and priming that would have been necessary if the LPOP wasn't pumping until after it had started. I hate to say it, but I think I would take a look-see at the LPOP.